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Old 04-15-2013, 03:16 PM   #113
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hognutz View Post
RX specifically recomends the 2 check valve design for the ZL1. People on the forums will tell you it is not required but if you call RX directly not a vendor trying to sell what they stock, they will explain why.

this is why they do not recoment the breather for the ZL1 they have designed the dual check to allow for extra crankcase evactuation at WOT. this is the optimum setup in thier eye's.

Now you can take or leave that advice as it is not from me but from them.

My personality is not to try to re-engineer the recomendation of the product designer as they know more about catch cans than I do. they actaully test the products. Others will tell you it is a buch of BS and not required. but if you think it through at WOT there will be a vaccum created through the dual check but as I stated above some are not convinced that this is matters.
I ordered the dual valve setup from them last month. just waiting on it to show up. Allready have the T installed and just capped 1 side on the rotofab.

thanks
anthony
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Old 04-15-2013, 03:46 PM   #114
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I installed mine here. My RX came with the straight bracket for the SS . . I then waited for the bent ZL1 bracket . . . for the life of me I could not get the bent bracket to fit without the can rubbing on something, or without needing to either modify the bracket hole or take a section of the fan shroud out . . so I used a spacer, a longer OEM style bolt and the straight bracket.



I am not in love with this setup since I feel it puts a "load" onto the plastic ear of the radiator and shroud.

The plus, the can is rotated such that the hoses to the intake and valley do not need to cross over each other for a cleaner look.
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Old 04-15-2013, 03:51 PM   #115
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Finished install:

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Old 04-16-2013, 04:37 PM   #116
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skylane765 View Post
I used some bushings that came with a Direct TV dish and you DO NOT have to remove the filter to drain the cup. I did use the hockey stick mount and cut it smaller.
It only takes 10 ft of hose, the parts I used are listed in a earlier post.

To make bushings, just cut a 3/4 rod of some plastic and drill holes or use a thick 3/8s ID pipe and cut them to half inch. I just found the bushings in my screw box, You can use anything, even a socket would work. In the pic you can see the hockey mount piece left over I cut off.
Honestly guys, if this is something you want and you like this mount. We'll be happy to fabricate something specific for you. No need to run around to the various hardware stores and piece something together.

Just give us a shout!

sales@eliteengineeringusa.com
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Old 04-16-2013, 04:39 PM   #117
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great info. my OCC comes in soon.
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Old 04-16-2013, 05:28 PM   #118
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I contacted revxtreme before I ordered mine, and I was told that the duel check valve is recommend on road courses where the engine is at peak rpm most of the time and for daily driving and drag racing the single valve would be fine.
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Old 04-16-2013, 07:22 PM   #119
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Originally Posted by Azzkker View Post
I ordered the dual valve setup from them last month. just waiting on it to show up. Allready have the T installed and just capped 1 side on the rotofab.

thanks
anthony
Can u post a close up pick of the T you set up with your Roto Fab? I'm trying to get a clear understanding of how the dual valve setup looks like for when mine shows up.

I'm pretty clear on the engine connections but not so on the second check valve connection. Pics would help a bunch.
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Old 04-16-2013, 07:49 PM   #120
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Size:  148.6 KBDavenport Motorsports installed the elite can on my ZL1 with one of elites existing brackets
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Old 04-24-2013, 10:15 PM   #121
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Read everything here from start to finish. Planning on a RX Can, but didn't read anything on how to empty/drain the can. Do you have to remove it to drain? Still not sure I understand two or three hoses? Which is better? I will also be doing CAI, so that's why I ask about the 2/3 hoses. The T into the CAI, not sure which way to go, is this necessary/more efficient?
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Old 04-24-2013, 10:38 PM   #122
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Rx uses a drain valve that you open on the bottom of the can. elite you have to unscrew to empty. The dual valve is better if you plan to do a lot of long WOT pulls, as it still pulls vacuum under wot via the 3rd hose that T's into the Cai. the single valve works great as well, and might be all you need if you do not need the constant vacuum the dual valve gives.

only 10 bucks more expensive for the dual valve.
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Old 04-24-2013, 11:27 PM   #123
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Azzkker View Post
Rx uses a drain valve that you open on the bottom of the can. elite you have to unscrew to empty. The dual valve is better if you plan to do a lot of long WOT pulls, as it still pulls vacuum under wot via the 3rd hose that T's into the Cai. the single valve works great as well, and might be all you need if you do not need the constant vacuum the dual valve gives.

only 10 bucks more expensive for the dual valve.
Thanks for the info. I don't ever plan on drag racing, but we do plan on eventually taking it on a road course/track. As far as WOT, I have tried out the No Lift Shifting, but its not often that I'll have it wide open, and until I get her on a track its only in short burst. So from your info and my driving style I'm fine w/single valve. But like you said its only $10 more for the dual. From what I read you can plug the line and I'm assuming I could at a later date run the third line. Did I read/interpret that correctly? If I get the dual I would most likely T into the CAI.
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Old 04-25-2013, 12:51 PM   #124
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Normagene View Post
Thanks for the info. I don't ever plan on drag racing, but we do plan on eventually taking it on a road course/track. As far as WOT, I have tried out the No Lift Shifting, but its not often that I'll have it wide open, and until I get her on a track its only in short burst. So from your info and my driving style I'm fine w/single valve. But like you said its only $10 more for the dual. From what I read you can plug the line and I'm assuming I could at a later date run the third line. Did I read/interpret that correctly? If I get the dual I would most likely T into the CAI.
I have a rotofab and it came with the t fitting in the kit. So if you went that route you already have everything you would need to install the dual valve can if you bought it.

You could leave the line off, but why would you if everything is already for that 3rd line. I plan to leave mine on all the time once I get my can from tracy, should be shipping soon.
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Old 04-25-2013, 01:14 PM   #125
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Originally Posted by Azzkker View Post
I have a rotofab and it came with the t fitting in the kit. So if you went that route you already have everything you would need to install the dual valve can if you bought it.

You could leave the line off, but why would you if everything is already for that 3rd line. I plan to leave mine on all the time once I get my can from tracy, should be shipping soon.
Thanks, I sent them an email asking for their opinion as to which would suit my driving style. They recommended a single can. The email also mentions they have an optional "breather cap" and I have no idea if that is necessary. Any thoughts on that? I appreciate your assistance/knowledge. Thanks, I'll place my order real soon. What color did you order, I'm thinking black?
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Old 04-25-2013, 01:35 PM   #126
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No need for the breather cap.
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