11-01-2010, 02:07 PM | #1 |
Drives: 2011 Camaro 1LT/RS A6 Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Texas
Posts: 157
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How did you break your engine in?
I know there are over 5,000 different ways to break an engine in, and I'm not asking because I wanna know how to break it in, I'm just curious on what some approach you all took on breaking it in. So, how did you break you engine in?
I researched for hours how to break an engine in before I decided on how I was going to, I found people telling me to keep it under 3K RPM and follow the manual while I also had people telling me to run it with hard loads. That's when I decided I'll do a little of both, drive it how I will in the future, let it shift at 2K RPMs sometimes and other times have a little fun and let it shift at 4-5K RPMs, but I am staying away from using tapshift and cruise control, varying my speed for the first 1,500 miles. I figure millions of people drive off the lot with new cars every year and a lot of them may have not even heard of breaking an engine in. I just didn't see it as a do or die to keep it under 3K RPM for the first 3K miles and I drive a V6 so I'm not too concerned about making my engine a race engine so i wasn't big on the idea about putting huge load after huge load for the first 1,500 miles. I also asked around about the subject, even asked a person who bought a '79 Camaro SS brand new and she didn't even know what an engine break-in was, she drove it the same way day 1 that she planned on driving it 5 years later, she kept the car for 10 years and it was in fine condition. I think breaking an engine-in is less needed now than it was back in the 70s. But I am a noob/rookie/beginner when it comes to cars, though I do know that when you break an engine in you are pretty much sealing the cylinders, or making the car not use so much oil in the future. So my method may be hurting the car, who knows. But I am curious on y'alls approach on breaking an engine in.
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Foxxy, 312HP of hotness.
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11-01-2010, 02:08 PM | #2 |
Onechuck
Drives: 2010 Camaro IBM 2SS\RS SC & Cammed Join Date: May 2009
Location: White Oak Tx
Posts: 503
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Like I stole it...
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11-01-2010, 02:09 PM | #3 |
Drives: 2011 Camaro 2LT/RS CGM M6 Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Ontario
Posts: 815
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Don't shift until you've hit 6000rpm.
Seriosuly though, read the manual, that's the only way to break it in. Trust the people who built your car to know the right way to do it.
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2011 Chevrolet Camaro 2LT/RS Cyber Gray Metallic
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11-01-2010, 02:10 PM | #4 |
Drives: 2017 Mosaic Bk ZL1 M6 Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: South of Raleigh, NC
Posts: 9,474
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Took it easy for about 200 miles then couldn't stand it anymore and from then on I drive it like a drunk on the way to the liquor store for more tequila.
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11-01-2010, 02:16 PM | #5 |
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Well, I followed most of the advice I read on here. I took it easy for a while, then soon as the magic 1500 passed, I gunned her a couple of times, but NOT for long. Just short bursts of speed up to 90-95 then down again. Now she runs like a top and purrs like a kitten! I'm putting on a CAI this weekend and can't wait to see what she'll do then!
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11-01-2010, 02:20 PM | #6 | |
Drives: 2010 Camaro 1LS 3.6 LLT V6 325 HP Join Date: May 2009
Location: LS
Posts: 4,244
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Quote:
First day I kept her hot for 4 hrs to temper the block good and stabilize it. Runs great and burns no oil.
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2010 Camaro Auto, Inferno Orange, Titanium Interior, Gearhead Wheels AIRAID CAI
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11-01-2010, 02:28 PM | #7 |
Virologist in the making
Drives: 2010 VR SS/RS LS3 Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: El Paso TX
Posts: 2,865
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I drove it pretty mild until about 3000 miles then drove it like I do any other car.
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Victory Red 1SS/RS Ordered - 8/4/09 & Joined Camaro5.com family
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11-01-2010, 02:32 PM | #8 |
Drives: 2011 Victory Red Auto 2SS Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: West Tn
Posts: 628
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Except for a few times that I could not resist, followed the manuals recommendations.
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11-01-2010, 02:32 PM | #9 |
Camaro SL,UTs
Drives: 2010 Camaro SS/RS #16429 Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: South Jordan, UT
Posts: 7,358
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Tastes GREAT!!
Less FILLING!! It's the age old debate.......
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11-01-2010, 02:40 PM | #10 |
Drives: 2012 ZL1 - #670 Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Seminole, Fl.
Posts: 8,009
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Drove it !!!
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11-01-2010, 02:42 PM | #11 |
Drives: 2011 2SS CGM Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: NY NY
Posts: 136
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load the engine many times to break it in fast
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11-01-2010, 02:48 PM | #12 |
Drives: 2011 2LT - 73 Corvette 454 Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Salem, OR
Posts: 240
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I'm still breaking mine in technically since it only has 1000 miles on it and the manual says to break it in for 1500.
Anyway, the weekend we bought it we took it on a trip over the mountains on secondary roads, no freeways. That gave the car lots of speed changes, uphill and downhill grades, and several hours of operating at temperature. Since then I've avoided long trips on freeways because I was taught that long periods of constant speeds are hard on a brand new engine. There has also been a good amount of stop-and-go city driving on the car since that was what we needed to do. Overall I'm fairly comfortable with this regiment for the break in period. Next up after 1500 miles, maybe a long out of state trip on the Interstate. |
11-01-2010, 02:51 PM | #13 |
Drives: SS,PaceCar,ZL1,1LE,C7Z51,Z06,17-ZL1 Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Detroit, Mich
Posts: 68,623
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11-01-2010, 02:51 PM | #14 |
Account Suspended
Drives: 2012 Camaro RS, RX supercharged Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Bradenton, FL
Posts: 6,063
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I ignore the factory breakin. I drain the syn and put in a good dino oil like Rottela, or Valvoline racing. Run it easy for the first 100 or so miles varying the RPMs constantly, never running at one RPM for to long. Then beat the heck out of it for the next few hundred miles, drain cut open the filter & examine (most good engine builders have a filter cutter) and fill with a good syn and your broke in and rings seated.
This is just my way, and no dealer will agree....but from 35 years of building race & performance engines. On our alky fueled drag motors we build them a little looser so we just make one run 1/2 track, one full run, drain & refill and go racing. These are $20-$30k engines though. Your OEM LS engine is built with closer tolerances so needs a little more time. |
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Tags |
breaking, engine-in |
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