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Old 09-13-2016, 10:43 AM   #15
Drives: 2014 2SS something or other
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Originally Posted by justa25thTA View Post
Won't pass inspection (in Texas anyways) because the monitors won't be ready.
^^^ This. Won't in Virginia either.

Won't in most places if the monitors show offline. It can take 50-100 miles of driving before that is rectified after you clear the code, and by then the light could come back on again. I failed an inspection for this very reason.
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Old 09-13-2016, 11:37 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by justa25thTA View Post
get some anti-foulers from the auto parts store. Cheap enough to try and they cured my code.

These work. They are an item designed to set the spark plug back a couple of inches, but their threading and size mean that they can be used for O2 sensors.

Remove the downstream O2 sensor: screw the spark plug anti- fouler (also called a spark plug non- fouler... you'll need the 14mm variety, I think) into the hole, and screw the O2 sensor into that. It changes the way the O2 sensor reads the exhaust, and can clear up those pesky 420 codes.

It may not be the RIGHT way to do it, and there can sometimes be legal issues regarding their use, but at about $5/ each, they can get a person by for a while, if there's not an extra $grand$ laying around for new cats.

Google it, YouTube it... you'll get more info on it. I stumbled across this "miracle cure" online, spend $10 for a pair of them, and it took me about 10 minutes for the whole job. It's not guaranteed, but USUALLY seems to work. It worked for me...
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Old 09-21-2016, 03:00 PM   #17
Drives: 2012 2LT
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The CAT is about $200 at Rockauto, why not change it yourself.
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Old 09-21-2016, 04:59 PM   #18
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What type of oil are you using? I've hard that oil with high zinc content can mess up CC's.
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Old 09-21-2016, 06:19 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by Jylee View Post
The CAT is about $200 at Rockauto, why not change it yourself.
Depending on the state that won't be legal. In CA or any state that does CA-emissions smogs like NY you won't pass visual

why is this stickied anyway? full of misinformation
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Old 09-21-2016, 11:35 PM   #20

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if you are getting any codes its for a reason and should be fixed no mater how many miles you can drive it in between. for $1k get headers and high flow cats. you can gut the stock cats and get it tuned. I dont think in TX you have to worry about the visual. you have to find out what is happening to your cats. This one lasted 100K + so I guess its reasonable to say it failed on its own. If the cat flow is reduced I wouldnt be driving it until it got fixed.
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Old 04-25-2017, 10:30 AM   #21
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Could use some help with the P0420 code as well. Have a 2010 V6 108,000 miles. I got the code and just went and replaced the Cat. Reset codes, got it again, changed the downstream O2 bank 1 drivers side, reset code and just came back. Now I have a p0420, confirmed and P0300, P0301, P0305, P0306 pending. I am at a loss, as I need to pass emissions end of this week. I have changed the spark plugs few weeks ago. Only thing done to car is Doug T short headers, CAI cold air intake, MRT V2 axel back, Port n Polished Intake Manifold with a Plenum Spacer, and lastly RX Catch Can. Most of the items I have had on for a while and never popped any codes, all those items I put on I put on so I wouldn't have emissions testing issues. I want to fix the problem and not bypass it, so any ideas anyone? I thought maybe the coil packs and wires might be bad since I am getting those other codes now, if so could this cause the P0420 code as well?
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Old 04-25-2017, 10:43 AM   #22
Russell James

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You need the service manual, a scan tool, DVOM.... need to go down the diagnostics in the service manual for that DTC code. Just throwing parts at it is guessing. Could be a wire, short, open, bad module, bad part.... the only way to know is using the service manual diagnostics.

With those mods, the O2 connectors have been apart several times. Could start with checking each end of each connector to make sure a terminal has not been pushed back or split open. Beyond that you will need the service manual to determine which terminals are ground, power, reference, signal... and a scan tool to watch the O2 data.
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Old 05-16-2017, 01:45 PM   #23
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I have the opposite issue. I have the Solo HFC and LFX Catback. If my car sits idling for about 15 mins, I will get the code. I drive it about 20 mins and it clears itself. Was told once that it was because my HFCs were too efficient. Who knows. I was also told to by a tune to prevent those codes. I purchased the Trifecta and thought I eliminated those codes in the setup but apparently not. Still get em. I live with it knowing I can just drive and reset itself or use my scan tool to clear. If I drive and let it reset, then it would pass emissions where if I reset, not sure I would not need to drive anyway to get the computer to have some history.

Update: 14 June 2017 Purchased the O2 Extenders - came 2 in a package for $6.69 on Amazon. Fixed my issues.
2 of Blox Racing BXFL-00108 Check Engine Light Eliminator Adapter

Last edited by MyLocalDJ; 07-18-2017 at 12:42 PM.
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Old 07-16-2017, 08:36 PM   #24
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Drives: 2011 Camaro LS
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See I have a 2011 Camaro LS 6 Spd Manual. Bought it with 76k got the pesky P0430 code. Dealer determines it was a bad cat drivers side. Now a month later I'm getting P0420, I have yet to run scanner and see live data on sensors and see if their bad. What do you guys hunk is my best route? Some people tell me maybe I got a lemon with the Cat they put on? I'm in Cali if that makes a difference. I won't have to do smog for another 2 years. I know I can drive it the way it is and it's not going to affect my driving capabilities but seeing that CEL bugs the hell out of me. Sometimes u can drive over 500 miles before it comes on sometimes I will drive 15 and it comes on. I just scan it and clear it each time.
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