Rebuilt or New Engine - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

paulh012 · 03-28-2020, 08:30 PM

Alright so recently my automatic 2013 stage 2 Cammed Camaro with headers and full exhaust and CAI had a lifter fail and that’s when I decided to upgrade the car with the stage 2 cam from BTR. Car was put back together and took a little while for the tuner to get it running decent. After getting the car back for a month or so I took it to another tuner just to get it retuned you make sure everything was good. Tuner was getting some misfires and thought it was the spark plug wires so the plan was to get those replaced. Few days later I finally decided to mess with the car and did a couple of passes and a burnout and shortly after that the dash lit up. Took the car back to the shop the next day and come to find out a spring broke and a valve dropped. Still waiting for them to pull the heads to see the full damage but I’m trying to prepare for the worst. I need some help trying to figure out what would the cost be to get the engine rebuild if the piston is damaged? Of course I want to keep the cam and not get a new engine with a stock cam. So I’m seeking out help and advice on the subject.

SN: When the cam was put in the shop decided that the springs that came with the cam kit was too aggressive and decided to go with a less aggressive spring.

*mlee* · 03-28-2020, 08:40 PM

You had a BTR Cam with spring kit and the shop put in different springs?

Hate to hear this, but I'm sure others can help with the rebuild questions.

paulh012 · 03-28-2020, 08:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mlee

You had a BTR Cam with spring kit and the shop put in different springs?

Yea they did and not thinking at first we didn’t think nothing of it but with everything that happened we’re thinking that everything happened because of the “less aggressive springs” they put in

Black_SS10 · 03-28-2020, 08:45 PM

Well, that shop screwed you.

paulh012 · 03-28-2020, 08:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Black_SS10

Well, that shop screwed you.

Yea you’re right and we’d be hoping they take responsibility for it but we all know how that go

Black_SS10 · 03-28-2020, 09:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by paulh012

Yea you’re right and we’d be hoping they take responsibility for it but we all know how that go

If the shop has any reputation they should. But I doubt it since they don't know what proper valve springs to use. Maybe they can comp you labor....but I wouldn't want them touching my car again.

*mlee* · 03-28-2020, 10:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by paulh012

Yea they did and not thinking at first we didn’t think nothing of it but with everything that happened we’re thinking that everything happened because of the “less aggressive springs” they put in

BTR is top notch and no way I would go against their recommended springs...

Live and learn I guess but I would be pretty pissed at that shop.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Black_SS10

If the shop has any reputation they should. But I doubt it since they don't know what proper valve springs to use. Maybe they can comp you labor....but I wouldn't want them touching my car again.

Yeah, the free labor stuff always sounds good but you end up going down the same road again and again.

Run from that shop

Greenhornet2 · 03-29-2020, 08:09 AM

So it sounds like you don't do your own work, typically you will find if you're paying someone else to do it a replacement is cheaper, or about the same price. Also if you aren't doing your own work i would recommend a replacement short block rather than a rebuild because, i'm sorry to say but there's almost nobody i trust to rebuild and engine anymore. Very hard to find a local shop to trust they know what they are doing and will take the care to do it right, so for about the same price get a rebuilt short block by the pros and have the shop just swap it over its harder to mess up that way, especially if you're using the shop that essentially caused your problem. I wouldn't let them inside my engine. You might be ok with just a new valve and the correct springs. Have to check the head and piston to see if its beat up. If the valve broke apart it is also recommended to inspect the cat converter thoroughly to make sure there's no metal pieces inside it or it may suck that metal back into the cylinder when started. I believe the complex runner design of the intake also doesn't allow you to be able to clean metal that may have gotten in the and i would replace the intake manifold, this is if pieces of the valve or piston are missing. Might have damaged rocker, lifter cam lobe pushrod from the piston hitting the valve. I'm not a pro this is opinion and others may have more insight. What i mentioned about the cat and intake is actually a GM bulletin though.

SuperChuck · 03-30-2020, 06:53 AM

What was the original cam with failed lifter?

paulh012 · 03-30-2020, 11:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SuperChuck

What was the original cam with failed lifter?

Stock gm

03-28-2020, 08:30 PM	#1
paulh012 Drives: Camaro SS Join Date: Feb 2020 Location: SC Posts: 10 View My Garage	Rebuilt or New Engine Alright so recently my automatic 2013 stage 2 Cammed Camaro with headers and full exhaust and CAI had a lifter fail and that’s when I decided to upgrade the car with the stage 2 cam from BTR. Car was put back together and took a little while for the tuner to get it running decent. After getting the car back for a month or so I took it to another tuner just to get it retuned you make sure everything was good. Tuner was getting some misfires and thought it was the spark plug wires so the plan was to get those replaced. Few days later I finally decided to mess with the car and did a couple of passes and a burnout and shortly after that the dash lit up. Took the car back to the shop the next day and come to find out a spring broke and a valve dropped. Still waiting for them to pull the heads to see the full damage but I’m trying to prepare for the worst. I need some help trying to figure out what would the cost be to get the engine rebuild if the piston is damaged? Of course I want to keep the cam and not get a new engine with a stock cam. So I’m seeking out help and advice on the subject. SN: When the cam was put in the shop decided that the springs that came with the cam kit was too aggressive and decided to go with a less aggressive spring.

03-28-2020, 08:40 PM	#2
mlee CamaroFans.com Drives: ZLE & ZR2 Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Conroe, TX Posts: 37,497 View My Garage	You had a BTR Cam with spring kit and the shop put in different springs? Hate to hear this, but I'm sure others can help with the rebuild questions. __________________

03-28-2020, 08:45 PM	#4
Black_SS10 SomeguyK Drives: 2010 Black 2SS/RS Join Date: Nov 2014 Location: FL Posts: 1,947	Well, that shop screwed you. __________________ TMS 427, Dart iron Block, Forged assembly, Frankenstien heads, AGP TT 62/62 BB turbo's, AGP/Fore triple fuel system, Tilton clutch, Holley 1 7/8 shorties, Technostalgia tail lights,Oracle, Aeroforce, MGW shifter,Flowmaster, Pegasus subframe bushings,BMR trailing & toe arms,Z28 UCA bushings,Zl1 rear sway bar,Prothane,BMR,Goodridge brake lines,Ridetech HQ coilovers,3.91,Trutrac,billet caps,DSS axles,HE offest,built TR6060,1LE diffuser,Havoc spoiler,SSclones,20in MRR 017, Pirelli P Zero, Nitto NT555RII More to come.

03-29-2020, 08:09 AM	#8
Greenhornet2 Drives: 2011 Camaro 2SS LS3 Whipple Join Date: May 2019 Location: Connecticut Posts: 1,925	So it sounds like you don't do your own work, typically you will find if you're paying someone else to do it a replacement is cheaper, or about the same price. Also if you aren't doing your own work i would recommend a replacement short block rather than a rebuild because, i'm sorry to say but there's almost nobody i trust to rebuild and engine anymore. Very hard to find a local shop to trust they know what they are doing and will take the care to do it right, so for about the same price get a rebuilt short block by the pros and have the shop just swap it over its harder to mess up that way, especially if you're using the shop that essentially caused your problem. I wouldn't let them inside my engine. You might be ok with just a new valve and the correct springs. Have to check the head and piston to see if its beat up. If the valve broke apart it is also recommended to inspect the cat converter thoroughly to make sure there's no metal pieces inside it or it may suck that metal back into the cylinder when started. I believe the complex runner design of the intake also doesn't allow you to be able to clean metal that may have gotten in the and i would replace the intake manifold, this is if pieces of the valve or piston are missing. Might have damaged rocker, lifter cam lobe pushrod from the piston hitting the valve. I'm not a pro this is opinion and others may have more insight. What i mentioned about the cat and intake is actually a GM bulletin though. __________________ Whipple 2.9 CAI ID1050x injectors ZL1 Pump JRE FPCM JMS Voltage booster JRE Rough Idle blower cam BTR .660 springs CHE trunnion kit 1 7/8 Speed Engineering Borla Atak JRE scoop 1.5" lowering springs BMR trailing arms and toe links Cradle inserts 704WHP 603WTQ 93 octane

03-30-2020, 06:53 AM	#9
SuperChuck Drives: 2013 1SS BlueRay Metallic Join Date: Nov 2018 Location: Missouri (MO) Posts: 163	What was the original cam with failed lifter?