2013 SS L99 Engine seized?

[Shawxno]

Driving on freeway and the engine shut off completely (there was no load pop or noise whatsoever is just stopped) and tried starting it multiple times. a burning smell but like wires (it was the starter trying to work, starter still works got it tested)got it towed home checked the starter then got a breaker bar and tried pulling on the crankshaft pully and the dreaded thing of it not moving. Day after we pulled out the plugs for a couple hours then tried turning it over again and it moves but not how it should. Then got a breaker bar and moved it again but it should move smooth and not rough but still rather difficult to turn. Put all the plugs back and still the same. Check the oil filter and removed all the oil and only found very fine metallic particles (very fine but no clumps of Metal and got a magnet and pulled some of the metallic particles off. I was reading that it is very rare but the oil pump can fail and cause this

Any idea and what it could be and if a Rebuild would be applicable or just to swap it. A shop here is going to charge 4,300$ for a rebuilt engine and of course the 2-3 grand for the labor.

Anything helps. Thank you!

EDIT: The car has only 93,000 miles and the up to date on the oil changes. Replaces the spark plugs two months ago and got a transmission fluid flush a month ago.

[gunchamp]

Could be the oil pump. There has been some failures, but in general, they are reliable. Honestly if you can do the swap yourself, you would be light years ahead going that route. Especially if you find that the top end is fine, which it most likely will be. Just get a short block and move your stuff over

[gunchamp]

And just to add, NO metal should be visible. Most likely bearing material you are seeing and that fits perfectly with what you are explaining. Motor gets hot, starves for oil and basically locks up. With the plugs out, the motor should be extremely easy to turn over and should feel very smooth

[Greenhornet2]

The bearings are likely shot regardless of the root cause. Minimum you'll need a rebuild, new bearings new pump, new crank or turned down (likely). That can be a lot in labor. As mentioned if you can do your own work a shortblock would be your best bet your heads are likely fine just need to clean out the oil passages. Shortblocks stock are probably around 3500. The swap is pretty easy. Or even buying a complete engine if you can do the swap will come in around the same as a shortblock done by a shop.

[ariZona28]

I'm goinging to give my standard advice in this particular situation. Need to ask yourself what is the cars intended purpose? What is your mechanical expertise? What is your desired timeframe? Most importantly, what is your budget? You're at a fork in the road. A fast way to get back on the road is a crate LS3 engine from any of the big parts houses. Summit is just one example. 500 or so HP and a 3yr 36K mile warranty but you'll pay around $8K and then it must still be installed. You could go the short block route (much more economical) but then you're putting 93K mile parts on a new engine. I lean more towards the crate motor for time efficiency and warranty. Regardless, don't rush, do your research and you'll be happy with the results.

[christianchevell]

You have not even taken the valve covers off is my first thought...…….