08-08-2014, 10:02 AM | #57 |
Drives: 2014 Camaro SS 1LE Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 50
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Got Inferno1LE's unit in yesterday. Plug and play. I don't feel like taking off the carpet so I just ran it under the floor mat for now. Seems to work as advertized! very nice option to have, although at idle/start up it's still pretty loud, maybe it makes more of a difference in modified cars? Also, the flaps open back up when you turn the car off so at start up you get a split second of the loudness till it closes. All in all money well spent. Thanks Andrew
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08-08-2014, 01:43 PM | #58 |
Glad to hear it's working properly. The flaps close as soon as you turn the key on with the switch in the closed position. However, this is only true if there is vacuum in the tiny reserve canister in the rear of the car. If you use up the reserve, the flaps will not close until your engine makes vacuum (a second or 2).
Basically, if it's a day later, the flaps will stay closed at startup, but I find if I don't drive the car for a few days, they will take a second. I'm sure everybody's car is different too. I've thought out adding an electronic actuator for startup, but it's honestly not worth it to me. |
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08-09-2014, 07:34 AM | #59 | |
Drives: '14 1LE Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: NJ
Posts: 2,435
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Quote:
I've had the same experience - under certain conditions they are closed on startup |
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08-09-2014, 08:18 AM | #60 | |
Drives: 2014 Camaro SS 1LE Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 50
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Quote:
You were right. Its working much better now. Here's where I put the switch( and I manged to scratch the shit out of it). Very convenient, I can almost reach it without letting go of the shifter. How do you guys run wires under the carpet from door seal to the center counsel? I tried to do that but it seems impossible. Oh well, I've got it hidden pretty well for now. |
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08-09-2014, 11:29 AM | #61 | |
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08-09-2014, 01:44 PM | #62 |
COTW 12/2/13
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Or you can pull the back seat and run it under the carpet to the center console.
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09-21-2014, 10:06 PM | #63 |
Drives: Junker Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: north, eh
Posts: 52
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sorry to dig up an old thread, but I was wondering if you guys could share some simple schematics for this mod or some pictures of the way it's wired?
Do you pull the fuse and create a circuit off the fuse connection to the 3-way toggle, in-line fuse (for factory) and a ground? |
09-21-2014, 10:29 PM | #64 |
KaBoom1701
Drives: 13' ZL1 Red M6 Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: I.E. SoCal (Yucaipa)
Posts: 8,630
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PM sent to h08871
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Mods:
Roto-Fab Intake, WW Res. kit & Big Gulp Air Scoop, Elite Catch Can, ATI Super Damper & 18% OD Pulley, LF Idler pulley bracket, Metco CC breather, ID850 Injectors, Stainless Power Headers w/ ceramic coating, TR71X Spark Plugs, JMS Fuel Pump Booster, Bo White TB, Tuned by Ted @ Jannetty Racing, Ron Davis HX, D3 Reservoir, Pfadt 1" Springs, Moreno Camber Plates, ZL1 Addons Splitter guard washers, Tow Hook kit & rock guards, Hurst Shifter Billet Plus 6 Speed Short Shifter, ZL1 DRL lighting harness, ZL1 Recaro Seats. |
09-22-2014, 02:46 AM | #65 |
Drives: Supercharged LLT Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Posts: 1,437
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Could this mod work on a v6 if I would get the NNP dual mod exhaust on
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09-22-2014, 08:16 AM | #66 | |
Geoff
Drives: 2020 ZL1 Green Join Date: May 2013
Location: Houston
Posts: 1,720
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hope this helps
Quote:
for the stealth mod only for a simple drawing, ignore the chunk at the bottom and just look at the SPST chunk at the top right I did not unplug anything of the factory wiring or fuses. there are 4 connectors that go on the additional relay. one is a ground, one is from the switch mounted in the cabin, one is tapped into the red/white wire (the red square thing just above the fuse block) and the last one is tapped into the green/black wire (red block towards the bottom right) if interested in the stealth/factory/wild setup follow the schematic in full or use Inferno1LE's simpler approach.
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09-22-2014, 08:24 AM | #67 |
Geoff
Drives: 2020 ZL1 Green Join Date: May 2013
Location: Houston
Posts: 1,720
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should work
KaBoom
I think the NPP in a box should work (I've never seen one though - that is the disclaimer). it is set up for a different engine and car.........it should not be an issue. all you need is a constant vacuum source from the manifold and a place to mount the box. there is a lot of room behind the trunk lining and you should be able to get power there too. I'm interested to see how it comes out AND you're right, BRM is a great color!
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09-22-2014, 08:26 AM | #68 | |
Geoff
Drives: 2020 ZL1 Green Join Date: May 2013
Location: Houston
Posts: 1,720
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Quote:
http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=376190
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09-22-2014, 09:34 AM | #69 | |
KaBoom1701
Drives: 13' ZL1 Red M6 Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: I.E. SoCal (Yucaipa)
Posts: 8,630
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Quote:
Thx h018871! I'll keep you informed of how this turns out.
__________________
Mods:
Roto-Fab Intake, WW Res. kit & Big Gulp Air Scoop, Elite Catch Can, ATI Super Damper & 18% OD Pulley, LF Idler pulley bracket, Metco CC breather, ID850 Injectors, Stainless Power Headers w/ ceramic coating, TR71X Spark Plugs, JMS Fuel Pump Booster, Bo White TB, Tuned by Ted @ Jannetty Racing, Ron Davis HX, D3 Reservoir, Pfadt 1" Springs, Moreno Camber Plates, ZL1 Addons Splitter guard washers, Tow Hook kit & rock guards, Hurst Shifter Billet Plus 6 Speed Short Shifter, ZL1 DRL lighting harness, ZL1 Recaro Seats. |
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09-22-2014, 10:27 PM | #70 |
Drives: Junker Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: north, eh
Posts: 52
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Thanks h018871!
I had a read through both your pdfs when I was lurking a few months back and thought those were pretty thorough, but I'm hesitant to cut a few wires and add in the relays (warranty and whatnot). I thought maybe a tap into the fuse connector might be a bit easier, but when looking at yours and Inferno1LE's method, it looks like you have to cut both sides of the block to accomplish it. |
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Tags |
dual mode exhaust, npp, quiet exhaust, stealth exhaust |
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