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Old 08-08-2014, 10:02 AM   #57
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Got Inferno1LE's unit in yesterday. Plug and play. I don't feel like taking off the carpet so I just ran it under the floor mat for now. Seems to work as advertized! very nice option to have, although at idle/start up it's still pretty loud, maybe it makes more of a difference in modified cars? Also, the flaps open back up when you turn the car off so at start up you get a split second of the loudness till it closes. All in all money well spent. Thanks Andrew
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Old 08-08-2014, 01:43 PM   #58
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Glad to hear it's working properly. The flaps close as soon as you turn the key on with the switch in the closed position. However, this is only true if there is vacuum in the tiny reserve canister in the rear of the car. If you use up the reserve, the flaps will not close until your engine makes vacuum (a second or 2).

Basically, if it's a day later, the flaps will stay closed at startup, but I find if I don't drive the car for a few days, they will take a second. I'm sure everybody's car is different too. I've thought out adding an electronic actuator for startup, but it's honestly not worth it to me.
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Old 08-09-2014, 07:34 AM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Inferno1LE View Post
Basically, if it's a day later, the flaps will stay closed at startup, but I find if I don't drive the car for a few days, they will take a second. I'm sure everybody's car is different too.

I've had the same experience - under certain conditions they are closed on startup
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Old 08-09-2014, 08:18 AM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Inferno1LE View Post
Glad to hear it's working properly. The flaps close as soon as you turn the key on with the switch in the closed position. However, this is only true if there is vacuum in the tiny reserve canister in the rear of the car. If you use up the reserve, the flaps will not close until your engine makes vacuum (a second or 2).

Basically, if it's a day later, the flaps will stay closed at startup, but I find if I don't drive the car for a few days, they will take a second. I'm sure everybody's car is different too. I've thought out adding an electronic actuator for startup, but it's honestly not worth it to me.

You were right. Its working much better now. Here's where I put the switch( and I manged to scratch the shit out of it). Very convenient, I can almost reach it without letting go of the shifter. How do you guys run wires under the carpet from door seal to the center counsel? I tried to do that but it seems impossible. Oh well, I've got it hidden pretty well for now.
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Old 08-09-2014, 11:29 AM   #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by duc1098 View Post
You were right. Its working much better now. Here's where I put the switch( and I manged to scratch the shit out of it). Very convenient, I can almost reach it without letting go of the shifter. How do you guys run wires under the carpet from door seal to the center counsel? I tried to do that but it seems impossible. Oh well, I've got it hidden pretty well for now.
You run it up the door sill past the kick panel, then under the carpet to the driver side and back down the center console. Call me if you need help.
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Old 08-09-2014, 01:44 PM   #62
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Or you can pull the back seat and run it under the carpet to the center console.
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Old 09-21-2014, 10:06 PM   #63
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sorry to dig up an old thread, but I was wondering if you guys could share some simple schematics for this mod or some pictures of the way it's wired?

Do you pull the fuse and create a circuit off the fuse connection to the 3-way toggle, in-line fuse (for factory) and a ground?
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Old 09-21-2014, 10:29 PM   #64
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Old 09-22-2014, 02:46 AM   #65
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Could this mod work on a v6 if I would get the NNP dual mod exhaust on
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Old 09-22-2014, 08:16 AM   #66
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hope this helps

Quote:
Originally Posted by extraurban View Post
sorry to dig up an old thread, but I was wondering if you guys could share some simple schematics for this mod or some pictures of the way it's wired?
Do you pull the fuse and create a circuit off the fuse connection to the 3-way toggle, in-line fuse (for factory) and a ground?
hope this helps extraurban

for the stealth mod only
for a simple drawing, ignore the chunk at the bottom and just look at the SPST chunk at the top right

I did not unplug anything of the factory wiring or fuses. there are 4 connectors that go on the additional relay. one is a ground, one is from the switch mounted in the cabin, one is tapped into the red/white wire (the red square thing just above the fuse block) and the last one is tapped into the green/black wire (red block towards the bottom right)

if interested in the stealth/factory/wild setup follow the schematic in full or use Inferno1LE's simpler approach.
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Old 09-22-2014, 08:24 AM   #67
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should work

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I think the NPP in a box should work (I've never seen one though - that is the disclaimer). it is set up for a different engine and car.........it should not be an issue. all you need is a constant vacuum source from the manifold and a place to mount the box. there is a lot of room behind the trunk lining and you should be able to get power there too.
I'm interested to see how it comes out

AND you're right, BRM is a great color!
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Old 09-22-2014, 08:26 AM   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Black Knight View Post
Could this mod work on a v6 if I would get the NNP dual mod exhaust on
check out KaBoom's install
http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=376190
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Old 09-22-2014, 09:34 AM   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by h018871 View Post
KaBoom
I think the NPP in a box should work (I've never seen one though - that is the disclaimer). it is set up for a different engine and car.........it should not be an issue. all you need is a constant vacuum source from the manifold and a place to mount the box. there is a lot of room behind the trunk lining and you should be able to get power there too.
I'm interested to see how it comes out

AND you're right, BRM is a great color!
Awesome.

Thx h018871!

I'll keep you informed of how this turns out.
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Old 09-22-2014, 10:27 PM   #70
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Thanks h018871!

I had a read through both your pdfs when I was lurking a few months back and thought those were pretty thorough, but I'm hesitant to cut a few wires and add in the relays (warranty and whatnot). I thought maybe a tap into the fuse connector might be a bit easier, but when looking at yours and Inferno1LE's method, it looks like you have to cut both sides of the block to accomplish it.
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