07-17-2018, 10:54 PM | #15 |
Drives: 2015 2ss Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Wooster ohio
Posts: 586
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What benefit is there to removing the stock clutch spring? My car is far from stock or streetable now. I already have the return spring mod to the pedal
I’m fighting a hiccup issue now when power shifting. Messed with the computer but I think it may be in the dang clutch switch or something causing it. |
07-18-2018, 08:15 AM | #16 | |
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It comes out easy. Some folks run without a return spring at all - I read on the vette forums that this risks the master cylinder not traveling back up fully, and therefore not opening the transfer port to allow circulation back to the clutch fluid reservoir. So, I have a pretty light return spring I got from Home Depot setup on mine. Lingenfelter will sell you the same spring, but they apparently theirs is made of solid gold because it's $80!!!! The difference without the spring is awesome. It's just a consistent return to the top, rather than that sudden push up once you get about half way. If you're chasing a clutch feel issue, and you've already got the extra return spring in there, I'd definitely consider pulling it out. You can put it back if you don't like it. Another thing to consider is the Ideal Garage clutch master cylinder and remote fluid reservoir. Basically, this was designed to help with the high rpm shift issues a lot of TR6060's have, especially on the 1-2. Their cylinder is a bored out stock piece, so it retains the pressure sensor and OE wiring connections, but it flows a higher volume of fluid per given stroke. The result is that it opens the clutch faster, and further, giving a more positive dis-engagement in an attempt to reduce drag against the syncros that have to spin those gear sets to the correct speed for the next gear. It helped in my car, but I still fight a crappy 1-2 shift. I just CANNOT rush it, it has to be deliberate and not a power shift, or it'll grind and even lock out some times. I literally have to tell myself, verbally, to take it easy on that shift, every pass. Because my natural approach is to bang that thing like an animal, and that doesn't work well.
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10-30-2018, 06:00 AM | #17 |
Drives: 2010 Camaro SS RS Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Fort Wayne, IN
Posts: 16
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First time at the track was fun with learning to limit wheelspin.
Second time I tried Launch Control for the first time, first on the fresh prepared track. Snapped my transmission output shaft at the line. Output shaft, bearings, fluid and labor $1450. Early 2010 SS manual are known to have suspect heat treat, no shit.
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Kooks LTH, Haltech CAI, cam, tune, MGW shifter, HRE FF01 wheels
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10-30-2018, 07:35 AM | #18 | |
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GPI Max Package 2.0: Brodix BR7 heads/GPI porting, MAX3 cam, ST2116LSR, BSR Max Lift rockers, LS7 LSXR with 103mm TB, Vararam OTR, Mcleod RXT, G-Force/Strange 9" IRS setup with 4.63 gear. 551whp, 11.1@124mph.
Got a question about a GPI product? Feel free to shoot me a message! |
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10-30-2018, 09:35 AM | #19 |
Drives: 2014 Camaro SS/RS 1LE 1967 Camaro Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Fort Wayne, IN
Posts: 874
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Cammer, i've tried the E-brake thing on a country road a couple of times. i will get a bit of burnt clutch smell, is that normal? It may be that i held it a bit to long I'm not sure. At what point, sitting at the tree, do you decide to come up against the E-brake?
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10-30-2018, 10:03 AM | #20 | ||
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If I'm racing I usually try to go into full stage second - and I'll target my launch rpm before I roll into full stage, and just lightly bump clutch engagement against the brake to get to full staged. Then I'll keep that clutch real close to where I know I just felt it want to engage, and as the tree drops I just tip into that engagement zone ever so lightly, then I make a quick release on the brake and smooth release on the clutch. If I'm just trying for time slips I don't bring the launch rpm up till I'm fully staged and the tree is dropping. You have plenty of time after green to leave, so no rush. Once I'm happy with the launch rpm, I ease the clutch till I just feel it start to bite a tiny bit (you'll feel the car tense up) and then I make my quick release on the brake and smooth release of the clutch. A little bit of clutch smell is pretty normal honestly. You're trying to get a 4000+ lbs car moving, and to do that without a violent release (some guys do it that way, I can't afford axles and diffs!) you need to use that clutch up some. It's hard to quantify how much is too much. You'll know if you over-did it for sure if the clutch slips in first gear on your launch. Just get out of it, and let it cool good. A key for me is to NOT hot-lap the car, meaning do not make consecutive "max effort" launches without a good long cool down period. Last time I was out I broke my own rule, here is the result - a really unhappy clutch. You'll see the stage process too, although I wasn't really trying hard to cut a light I was practicing going in second. The clutch was fine, but did need to be properly cooled. I was also not running my usual RFB600 clutch fluid, but just some cheap DOT3, which I think wasn't helping things either.
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GPI Max Package 2.0: Brodix BR7 heads/GPI porting, MAX3 cam, ST2116LSR, BSR Max Lift rockers, LS7 LSXR with 103mm TB, Vararam OTR, Mcleod RXT, G-Force/Strange 9" IRS setup with 4.63 gear. 551whp, 11.1@124mph.
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10-31-2018, 09:31 AM | #21 |
Drives: 2014 Camaro SS/RS 1LE 1967 Camaro Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Fort Wayne, IN
Posts: 874
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Thanks for the reply, it is much appreciated.
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11-04-2018, 07:55 AM | #22 | |
Drives: '14 BRM 1LE 2SS/RS Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Ft. Wayne, IN
Posts: 801
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592 HP/590 TQ
LSA Blower w/ 2.45 Griptec, Reinforced Brick, FIC 1000 injectors, JRE FPCM, LFP Dual Pass HX, ZL1 IC pump, RotoFab CAI, Bo White TB, Coated Stainless Power 1-7/8" LTs, NPP, NGK TR7IX, Mighty Mouse Wild CC, AEM X-Series WB, Aeroforce Interceptor, MGW Shifter, Z28 Grill, Gary's Custom ZL1 Rockers, Hero Tails, Tuned by IMC |
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