Put the New Skinnies & DR's to Work (Media Heavy)

[Pro Stock John]

I was curious, what does your dyno sheet look like? Where does your combo make peak power?

Heat is one of the things that kills transmissions. If you do a converter, I'm assuming a multi-disk, including a trans cooler is a good idea.

[WatchThis]

Originally Posted by Unreal

Yes

$1500 is high on a converter. A circle D multidisc billet one is $1200 shipped. That is about as good as they get. I would start there, especially if you can do the labor yourself. It will drive nice, get into boost faster, and is the best upgrade you can do. I did a circle D 4c in my mustang and just daily driving it made a world of difference. Car is much more fun to drive.

Yeah I was looking at a multidisc Circle D, along with FTI and Yank. It seems like the performance gained is very well worth the money, I'm just worried about its manners in traffic but from your comments, it sounds like it'll be just fine. And then longevity with the stock trans, but I might as well just do a 90 and a converter at the same time.

Originally Posted by jrpimp00

Car is definitely a beast in waiting. Cant wait to pull up to the line beside you in the TA

Preciate it bro, that TA seems like it'll be pretty nasty. Mine's just a little street car

Originally Posted by Pro Stock John

I was curious, what does your dyno sheet look like? Where does your combo make peak power?

Heat is one of the things that kills transmissions. If you do a converter, I'm assuming a multi-disk, including a trans cooler is a good idea.

Here's a copy of the most recent dyno sheet, she's gotta go back for a few little adjustments though.



I agree with you about heat and it's one of the main things I'm concerned about. I did a little bit of reading here and there and yeah a trans cooler is definitely going to go on the car the next time she goes into the shop.

[Pro Stock John]

I can tell you from personal experience that a 3200 is not very noticeable difference in looseness as compared to stock.

[WatchThis]

Originally Posted by Pro Stock John

I can tell you from personal experience that a 3200 is not very noticeable difference in looseness as compared to stock.

Yeah I can see from your signature that you traded up to the 3800 stall. So in your personal experience coupled with what you've seen here, what would you recommend?

[AGP Turbo]

Keep in mind, the advertised stall is where the converter is going to be so tight as that it would stall out your engine before it would rev over that. The usable RPM that it will flash to before over coming your rear brakes, is likely 20-25% lower than that. A good Circle D 3800-4000 stall tuned the right way is perfectly fine for a street car cause tuned right it will be locked up at any light throttle. I don't recommend ever locking them at WOT. As your car get's faster, that will mean shifting into 5th in the 1/4 mile. Live with it.

Tuning tuning tuning. It's a religion.

[Unreal]

My wife doesn't even know I did one in the mustang. No one has noticed, and that is a 3800rpm stall. Haven't driven a 5th gen with a big stall, but on a mustang it wasn't even noticeable unless you floor it. Then it just shits and gets.

[Pro Stock John]

@ OP, what are your shift points at?

[WatchThis]

Originally Posted by AGP Turbo

Keep in mind, the advertised stall is where the converter is going to be so tight as that it would stall out your engine before it would rev over that. The usable RPM that it will flash to before over coming your rear brakes, is likely 20-25% lower than that. A good Circle D 3800-4000 stall tuned the right way is perfectly fine for a street car cause tuned right it will be locked up at any light throttle. I don't recommend ever locking them at WOT. As your car get's faster, that will mean shifting into 5th in the 1/4 mile. Live with it.

Tuning tuning tuning. It's a religion.

That explanation makes perfect sense and the way it's working out in my head sounds great considering that 3800 stall would likely put me pretty deep into boost right at the line which is what I'm looking for. I'd likely do a converter and along with a 2 step to make it consistent. I just wish I was more versed in the tuning aspect of things, as you mentioned, it's a religion but to me it's a frickin foreign language. I just have to trust that my tuner knows what he's doing.

Originally Posted by Unreal

My wife doesn't even know I did one in the mustang. No one has noticed, and that is a 3800rpm stall. Haven't driven a 5th gen with a big stall, but on a mustang it wasn't even noticeable unless you floor it. Then it just shits and gets.

That's pretty awesome and pretty much what I wanted to hear. I've never driven a car with a high stall converter, all I have to compare it to is the bikes I used to drag race with multistage lockup clutches and they were a bull to ride on the street. But if I could toss a 3800 stall converter in the car and not even notice a difference in traffic, that'd be awesome.

Originally Posted by Pro Stock John

@ OP, what are your shift points at?

I'm honestly not sure, I wasn't even paying attention to where it was shifting at.

[Jchaluja]

Very impressive! per others here, don't bother to put a converter to a stock trans, it will last very little, if you add a tc, then do a trans, either 6L90 or 4L80....one thing is for sure, you are going to break $hit eventually....that's part of the fun with our heavy high hp cars!!!

[WatchThis]

Originally Posted by Jchaluja

Very impressive! per others here, don't bother to put a converter to a stock trans, it will last very little, if you add a tc, then do a trans, either 6L90 or 4L80....one thing is for sure, you are going to break $hit eventually....that's part of the fun with our heavy high hp cars!!!

Thanks, I appreciate it. I've pretty much decided that a torque converter isn't going to happen until I swap out the trains due to the fact that I don't think the 6L80 would live very long. I've been talking to the shop that's taken care of me and they are really suggesting tossing a 4L80 in it with a Yank and then crank the boost up more. 4L80 is pretty bulletproof, the Yank will is an obvious necessity and more boost because at that point what's stopping me? Internals? Fueling?

I'm not greedy with boost, hell, I'm pretty happy with the level the car is at right now. But I know that I will want to turn it up more as I get more and more seat time in the car so my plan is to beef up the weak points in the car BEFORE I break them. With the automatic cars as far as I know, the weak points are the transmissions themselves and then it's just a matter of how much power your internals can hold, how much fuel you can dump in it, and how much power the turbos themselves are good for.

Oh and for PSJ, to answer your question regarding shift points, I got the tuner to pull it up and what is programmed into the car right now for shift points is 5500 for the 1-2 and 2-3 shift and then 6000 from then on.

[Unreal]

If you do a 6l90, I am 99% sure the 6l80/90 converters are the same so it wouldn't be a waste if you go 6l90 later.

[milo8604]

Does anyone know if a 6l90 swap is possible in the m6 cars?