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Old 11-17-2018, 03:19 PM   #15
George-CZ
 
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I am studying this debate and I firmly believe that the local community will find a mistake.
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Old 11-17-2018, 03:34 PM   #16
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Where is the reluctor wheel on the V8? Could you have shifted or damaged it when replacing the clutch?
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Old 11-17-2018, 07:27 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LuSINda View Post
If you have one use an inspection mirror to inspect the wiring. Heat could have melted the wires together which would cause the problem.
Good advice. I didn't use a mirror, I removed the pass side header to gain clearance. The loom in the earlier photo was fine, but I found the problem not far away. See post below for pics and story.
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Old 11-17-2018, 07:29 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by George-CZ View Post
I am studying this debate and I firmly believe that the local community will find a mistake.
The local community (me) did find a mistake. The stupid jack*** that made the mistake is typing this right now.
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Old 11-17-2018, 07:30 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jazzzed View Post
Where is the reluctor wheel on the V8? Could you have shifted or damaged it when replacing the clutch?
I layed awake last night with these same questions floating through my head. I messed up, but luckily not by disturbing the reluctor wheel. See Below.
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Old 11-17-2018, 07:49 PM   #20
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***SOLVED!!***

I removed the passenger side header in order to get a better look at the wire loom pictured earlier. That loom ended up being fine, but I spotted something else after I could see around up there better:



BINGO!!

I knew it was something that I screwed up. Sometimes this Hot-Rodding business isn't all checkered flags and large breasted women. I pinched the edge of this loom between the block and the trans. I suspected something like this from the beginning, but I couldn't see anything wrong with any of the wire looms until I got the header off. Here it is after I got the loom cover removed to expose the wires:



I knew the grey wire with a black tracer goes to the CKP because I saw that color at the connector. The brown wire was also damaged, but not broken completely. I'n not sure what it is for, but i fixed it too. Due to the limited space involved I repaired the two damaged wires with those low temp solder/heat shrink butt connectors and some spare wire:



Then I wrapped it all back up with the loom cover and some tape:



I stopped taking pics at that point, but I also wrapped that loom with aluminum heat wrap tape and wrapped the starter with aluminum heat resistant material I got from NAPA.

After making sure the codes were cleared, I fired the car up and she roars like the beast I remember!! My son and I took the car for a drive and everything is as it should be. It is running great and no CEL or codes.

I had a feeling the whole time that I caused the issue, and I was right. Oh well, that's the way it goes sometimes. For the record, I've done dozens and dozens of clutch jobs on everything from honda cars to semi trucks. I'm not a newb, but I feel like one right now.
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Old 11-17-2018, 08:01 PM   #21
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Glad you found it and was able to fix it. Good job
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Old 11-17-2018, 08:07 PM   #22
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Glad you found it and was able to fix it. Good job
Thanks!!
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Old 11-17-2018, 08:49 PM   #23
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I wasn't too far off.
I did something like that on one of our work trucks. Fortunately it was easy to see on the truck when the bell housing didn't want to seat correctly.
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Old 11-17-2018, 09:23 PM   #24
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Hey, and you got a new battery out of it too! So everything is fresh and ready to rock! Thank goodness you found it. Electrical gremlins can drive you nuts.
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Old 11-17-2018, 09:49 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CamaroFred View Post



I wasn't too far off.
I did something like that on one of our work trucks. Fortunately it was easy to see on the truck when the bell housing didn't want to seat correctly.
You called it yesterday. I was thinking it had to be something along those lines, but couldn't see it until I got the header out of the way. It barely pinched the edge of the loom and got 2 wires which is why it wasn't noticed when we seated the trans.
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Stop Tech Z-23 brakes
McCleod RST; MGW flat stick; Ram Clutch slave cylinder & hydraulic adjuster
BMR cradle & diff bushings, trailing arms, toe rods & upper control arm bushings
4.10 gears, Eaton Truetrac, LPW diff cover
Hotchkis sub-frame brace
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Old 11-17-2018, 09:53 PM   #26
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Hey, and you got a new battery out of it too! So everything is fresh and ready to rock! Thank goodness you found it. Electrical gremlins can drive you nuts.
I got a new battery and a spare CKP sensor out of the deal!! I was glad to spend the money to eliminate those two things or I wouldn't have gone as deep as I did to find the problem. It all worked out in the end.

I agree, electrical gremlins are the worst!! Thats why I was eager to spend money on some known good components to eliminate that part of the mystery.
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CAI Cold Air Intake; Stainless Power 1 7/8" LT w/ hfc; Flowmaster American Thunder 3" cat-back; DynoSteve remote tune
Stop Tech Z-23 brakes
McCleod RST; MGW flat stick; Ram Clutch slave cylinder & hydraulic adjuster
BMR cradle & diff bushings, trailing arms, toe rods & upper control arm bushings
4.10 gears, Eaton Truetrac, LPW diff cover
Hotchkis sub-frame brace
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Old 11-18-2018, 09:52 AM   #27
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REALLY?!?!?

Quote:
Originally Posted by zlathim View Post
***SOLVED!!***
I removed the passenger side header.... Sometimes this Hot-Rodding business isn't all checkered flags and large breasted women. I'm not a newb, but I feel like one right now.
REALLY?!?!?!
You may not be a newb to fixing cars, but your comment certainly is.....welcome to the 21st century
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Old 11-18-2018, 02:52 PM   #28
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Glad to hear you've got it back up and roaring again!
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