01-03-2015, 11:49 AM | #1 |
Drives: 2015 Camaro SS Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Jacksonville, Fl
Posts: 713
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Realistic 1/4 Mile Expectations From Bolt-On M6?
Mods in Sig.... I have run a best of 12.8 @113 +1600 DA with a 2.0 60'
What can I expect to get my 60' down to on an M6 (with drag radials 18"vs 20") and what is a 113 trap speed capable of et wise in a similar DA? Drag time Da calculator corrected is 12.5 @ 115 mph which I'm hoping for a cool day here at the end of Jan and a DA of + 500 or less
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2015 Camaro 2SS Cam/Heads/FBO 498/447 SAE |
01-04-2015, 09:53 PM | #2 |
Drives: 2011camaro SS Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Allen, Tx
Posts: 2,202
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Your ET will vary depending on how well you can improve your 60ft. I've seen some M6 guys not run any faster Bc the DR's was making them bog off the line and they didn't know how to launch at a good rpm.
Dragtimes is only correcting the DA factor which puts you at 12.5 but if you can lower your 60ft to just a 1.80 then on a great DA day the car is capable of 12.1-12.2 @ 115-116. But again it's all on the driver to lay it down. Good luck. |
01-05-2015, 07:39 AM | #3 | |
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Quote:
The secret is more seat time. Get a new clutch and start over.
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"Democracy Dies in Darkness" |
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01-10-2015, 05:49 AM | #4 |
Drives: My wife crazy with my C5 usage. Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: DFW
Posts: 6,558
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With a 1.72 60' I was running 12.1's at 117 with 420rwhp. You have to be aggressive on the launch with the clutch or you'll get wheel hop or blow the tires off. I had trailing arms, toe rods, lowering springs and cradle bushing inserts for my only suspension mods.
I cut a 1.64 on the P-zeros and a 1.61 on 20" NT05r's with substantially more power, axles, and 3.91's. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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UNDER CONSTRUCTION......again......
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01-10-2015, 11:26 AM | #5 | |
Drives: 2010 camaro ss Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Port Arthur, Tx
Posts: 2,383
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Quote:
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01-12-2015, 08:33 AM | #6 |
Drives: My wife crazy with my C5 usage. Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: DFW
Posts: 6,558
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I was launching everywhere from 2500-4000 rpm's and my clutch was getting pissed. After 3 or so passes, getting into 3rd is a pain in the ass.
You have to find the right engagement point that allows you to get the tires moving without spinning, causing wheel hop or bogging down. When you get it right, it feels good so it's easier to duplicate. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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UNDER CONSTRUCTION......again......
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01-12-2015, 10:06 AM | #7 |
Drives: GM Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Marydel, DE
Posts: 1,321
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What rpm did you feel was right?
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Roto- Fab Cai, SLP 1 3/4" headers, 3"X pipe, LM2 cat back, Comp Cam & AI Heads, SLP UP, RPM Tuned, GPI Intake, Vmax TB, ADM Air Scoop, 3.91 Gears, Gforce driveshaft, Braille 21#, Elite Catch Can, Pfadt Tie Rods, Diff Bushings and Trailing arms, Eibach spings & sways, BMR cradle bushings, Nt555r's.
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01-13-2015, 01:48 AM | #8 |
Drives: My wife crazy with my C5 usage. Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: DFW
Posts: 6,558
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I've had my best results around 2500. I'm considering a 2-step so I can take my nerves out of the equation a little more. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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UNDER CONSTRUCTION......again......
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01-25-2015, 11:39 PM | #9 |
Drives: 2010 aqua blue SS/RS M6 Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: plainfield, IL
Posts: 2,706
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I went slower and destroyed my throw out bearing with drag radials. I was running 12.6s 1.9 60s on stock tires with just long tubes and not even tuned! Put my little cam in it and went 12.30s with 1.9s and even 1.87 two times on stock rubber. I put 18s on my car with drag radials and it all went down hill. My car was bogging bad and when I raised launch rpms I was having trans problems that kept me from ever making a solid pass. I would upgrade your clutch and lines, get more seat time in! You should be able to get into the 12.40s with seat time as it sits. But the clutch definitely needs upgrades before you put tires on it.
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10.91 at 122 H/C stock block N/A
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01-25-2015, 11:49 PM | #10 |
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I could barely get my car to shift on my runs, pedal stuck on floor. Def. not going back until I get rid of the stock clutch.
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2010 2SS - CAI Intake, ADM Scoop, RotoFab Washer relo. LT Headers and off-road pipes, X-pipe, Muffler Deletes, ZL1 Spoiler, Technostalgia Tail-lights
'98 T/A (Sold) - Forged 6.0ltr, MS3, P&P'd Heads/Valves, 90MM FAST/TB, Headers, 3" Y-pipe, 4" Mufflex Catback. Koni Adjustables w/GC coilovers (550/175), Strano Sway Bars '94 Z28 (Sold) ... LS1 swap (basically same setup as the T/A), TH350/3500 stall ... swapped it all into the T/A -- >> Some of my Projects My Fquick Page |
01-26-2015, 09:42 AM | #11 |
Drives: My wife crazy with my C5 usage. Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: DFW
Posts: 6,558
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Do not get an ACT clutch. It fixed the pedal sticking to the floor, the the engagement/disengagement is horrible. I'm looking at either Mantic or an RXT
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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UNDER CONSTRUCTION......again......
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01-26-2015, 10:22 AM | #12 |
Drives: 2010 aqua blue SS/RS M6 Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: plainfield, IL
Posts: 2,706
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Yep!!! You need to keep your brake fluid clean, change it before every trip to the track. And I always did this, but once my throw out bearing was going, my car would not shift into 2nd unless I I took easy on my launch.
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10.91 at 122 H/C stock block N/A
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01-26-2015, 10:23 AM | #13 |
Drives: 2010 aqua blue SS/RS M6 Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: plainfield, IL
Posts: 2,706
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Since I love to drag race, th400 fixed everything and made my car the monster it is now!
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10.91 at 122 H/C stock block N/A
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01-26-2015, 10:25 AM | #14 |
Drives: GM Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Marydel, DE
Posts: 1,321
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What kind of tq is your car making? If you don't mind.
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Roto- Fab Cai, SLP 1 3/4" headers, 3"X pipe, LM2 cat back, Comp Cam & AI Heads, SLP UP, RPM Tuned, GPI Intake, Vmax TB, ADM Air Scoop, 3.91 Gears, Gforce driveshaft, Braille 21#, Elite Catch Can, Pfadt Tie Rods, Diff Bushings and Trailing arms, Eibach spings & sways, BMR cradle bushings, Nt555r's.
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