Ring gear broke.. now clutch problems.

[Pk222]

Couple months ago I snapped an axle. Got it fixed good for almost 5,000 miles then not even on a hit heard a loud metallic noise in the rear end. Took some time to pull over. Shop found a lot of broken pieces in the rear end. Shortly before I stopped while that was happening the clutch started acting weird. Full pressure but didn’t seem to be fully disengaging. Grind or hard to put in gear. Got the car back from the diff work and rear ends good. Now I have this weird clutch problem. I have had a monster lt1 twin with the slave new master and billet retainer for over a year with no problem other than still needing to bleed the clutch regularly. Never slipped but the pedal would hang low after about a week of sitting or driving. Never loses fluid.
Current problem. Clutch feels to have full movement and pressure but is not fully disengaging. Haven’t had a chance to bleed it again. Shop claims to have done nothing with the clutch. Other than bleeding it. When I have time to look at it what else can I look into? Full clutch feel but moving or stopped it will go into gear just not like it should.

[fz4k98]

I'm in the middle of the same problem with a clutch that has about 5k miles on it but quite a few test launches. Full travel but not full release. The thought now is warped clutch disk as the pedal free play at bottom should increase with wear not decrease.

I had an adjustable master cylinder that needed constant adjusting after about a year. I pulled it and went to a new factory one with instant improvement..

Originally Posted by Pk222

Couple months ago I snapped an axle. Got it fixed good for almost 5,000 miles then not even on a hit heard a loud metallic noise in the rear end. Took some time to pull over. Shop found a lot of broken pieces in the rear end. Shortly before I stopped while that was happening the clutch started acting weird. Full pressure but didn’t seem to be fully disengaging. Grind or hard to put in gear. Got the car back from the diff work and rear ends good. Now I have this weird clutch problem. I have had a monster lt1 twin with the slave new master and billet retainer for over a year with no problem other than still needing to bleed the clutch regularly. Never slipped but the pedal would hang low after about a week of sitting or driving. Never loses fluid.
Current problem. Clutch feels to have full movement and pressure but is not fully disengaging. Haven’t had a chance to bleed it again. Shop claims to have done nothing with the clutch. Other than bleeding it. When I have time to look at it what else can I look into? Full clutch feel but moving or stopped it will go into gear just not like it should.

[Pk222]

I had been going back and forth with the tick adjustable. But after doing all the other things I didn’t think it was necessary. I did see one post saying running an aftermarket clutch with stock lines will blow the stock masters. I’m on my 3rd master in 50,000 miles trying to chase down problems. I’ll probably order another stock master. Just to try it. But it’s weird it had been good until the rear end went. Doesn’t make sense to me at all I understand they’re totally different systems but just weird

[Pk222]

Older clutch problems were constant bleeding was needed. Then I did the clutch master and slave. Still lost pedal pressure and tried 2 new masters with no fix. But it’s never acted this way

[fz4k98]

It sounds similar to what I'm struggling with.
McLeod twin disk and factory master and line, low pedal
McLeod twin disk and tick adjustable, after a year adjusting and bleeding weekly.
Mantic twin disk with new slave and tick master, would not release clutch.
Mantic twin disk with new factory master worked with low pedal release.
After 5k of driving will not release clutch to shift.

I took apart the tick cylinder and it appears the rubber seal desjgn is weak. It appears to work as a suction and pressure seal which would allow blow by when trying to build pressure. Think in terms of a piston with only 1 ring, not good over time. If you are having to bleed repeatedly to get pedal back and it does not hold its most likely the rubber seal. Unfortunately I don't know where to turn.

Keep us posted if you figure itout.

[Pk222]

I never got the tick master. After replacing everything else they came out with it and aside from low pedal regularly the clutch worked great. But I think I’m gonna order a new factory master and see if that does anything after trying to bleed what I have first

[Pk222]

So I replaced the master and fully bled with new fluid. No better. Problem is only noticeable going into 1st and 3rd but definitely feels like the clutch isn’t fully disengaging. I don’t remember any kind of adjustment so I’m lost.

[fz4k98]

The current symptoms I have on a twin disk is...
Hard to shift into gear at stop.
At stop, in neutral on level ground, clutch all the way down and shift into gear and hear a clunk of driveline slack taken up and car slightly moves forward for a second.

During release the clutch then starts hooking up and moving car at about the normal pedal position and works fine.

After talking to Mantic, I am now going to pull the trans, measure all points related to slave cylinder to pressure plate fingers for correct distance and then start disassembling the clutch system to measure for a warped disk.

They stated a worn disk should have more free play at floor. A warped disk would have less.
I have done everything I can related to hydraulic system which is now why I am going to focus on slave travel and warp.

When you are at stop and shift does yours act similar?

[Pk222]

Whether I’m stopped or rolling first doesn’t want to go in. At a stop if I shift into 2nd and then 1st it will go in without grinding.
Yesterday’s I changed the trans fluid with royal purple synchromax but no difference. It’s definitely a clutch release issue. I’ll contact monster tomorrow and ask if they will rebuild it or what they have to suggest.

[fz4k98]

I finally was able to pull my trans and look. The slave cylinder measure on my car was .222.

I have seen different ranges but they all seem to point toward that gap being excessive. The clutch has about 5k miles on it currently. I have a shim ordered and will have to supplement that shim with a homemade one to get the gap I want which is .150.

Is there any update on yours yet?

Once I have it back together and tested I will update.

[eLeSthree]

Originally Posted by fz4k98

I finally was able to pull my trans and look. The slave cylinder measure on my car was .222.

I have seen different ranges but they all seem to point toward that gap being excessive. The clutch has about 5k miles on it currently. I have a shim ordered and will have to supplement that shim with a homemade one to get the gap I want which is .150.

Is there any update on yours yet?

Once I have it back together and tested I will update.

I just ordered the Tick Performance shim kit and I'm only using the .055 shim.

The kit comes with a .055, .113, and a .118. The suggested range is .120 - .200.

The kit is $40 on their website. The clutch disks and flywheel surfaces do wear in over time, creating some additional clearance. So I would shoot for .150 also.

[Pk222]

I bought the clutch shims when I had my clutch installed but it measured out and didn’t need them. The clutch had been good with no shims for a long time so I don’t think that would be my issue.
I talked to monster. They said that warping on this clutch really shouldn’t ever happen. I had someone else suggest it could be my 1st through 3rd synchros. I’m really thinking that’s not it. I can feel the engagement of the gears like the clutch isn’t all the way in. If the synchros were bad it should still disengage.

[fz4k98]

The way I understand the gap is it should be less as the clutch wears which is the purpose of the gap. I'm not sure how mine came in at .222 now but 5k miles ago I had clutch release when installed and it got worse over time.

When my shim shows up I am only going to shim it correct and reinstall it. I am not going to change anything else as i really want to understand this. Everything else I have looked at visually an is ok.

[eLeSthree]

Originally Posted by fz4k98

The way I understand the gap is it should be less as the clutch wears which is the purpose of the gap. I'm not sure how mine came in at .222 now but 5k miles ago I had clutch release when installed and it got worse over time.

When my shim shows up I am only going to shim it correct and reinstall it. I am not going to change anything else as i really want to understand this. Everything else I have looked at visually an is ok.

I think its the opposite. The pressure plate pushes the disks against the flywheel and if a twin or triple, the other floating plate surfaces. As everthing wears out the fingers move further away from the throw out bearing, creating more clearance. Old ass worn out 100,000 mile clutches dont hold better than new ones. Remember .150 - .200 is ideal.

I just reinstalled my trans today and set it to .150.

Monster has thier own clearance preference, i would ask them.