Drag racing

[Shutudwn]

I went to the local drag strip tonight to see what my car would do. I'm running street tires so I knew not to expect anything impressive. The only mods to the car are Z/28 intake, BBK catless mid pipe and RDP tune for 91oct. I was full weight including a full tank of gas

My first pass was pretty brutal. I tried running without the nannies and blew the tires off. Keeping all the traction aids on and doing a quick spin of the tires got me the best times but it was still nothing to write home about.

Times on the slips are 13.6@109, 13.1@110, and 13.3@112. My 60' ranged from 2.2-2.5.

Based on the MPH the car definitely has mid to low 12's in her. I'll be back!

[frankwjr]

get sum DR's....whole different world bro!


peace

[joelster]

I ran a 12.99 at 109 with my 1LE when it was bone stock. Your 60 foot time is killing you. My best was a 2.07. My routine was a quick haze of the tires, avoiding the water box. Turn all of the nannies off, Hold the rpm around 3000 at the line. Slight slip of the clutch, and you're off! I'm pretty sure some guys have gone 12.7's. There's a 1LE fastest list in the drag racing section.

[Shutudwn]

Roger on using drag radials next time, lol. One of the cars I was lined up with was an Audi RS5, I believe. He cut a 1.6 60' and ran 11.9@114. Only 2mph faster than I trapped but almost a 1.5 second difference in E.T. Traction and shifting make a big difference.

Just to be clear I knew I was going to have traction issues. I was just out to have some fun and I did. I really enjoy the car and mechanically it performed flawlessly.

Now it's time to go to a road course....

[GONIF]

If you going to run DR's plan on a new clutch in the near future.

[acammer]

I suggest that before you invest in drag radials that you invest some time learning to get what you can from your street tires. A 2.0x 60' should be very doable - and you'll learn a lot about what the car likes and doesn't like as you continue to whittle away on the launch. DRs are definitely an awesome tool for cutting down ET - but you want to have some seat time on your hands before you up the traction (and subsequently the stress on the driveline).

FWIW I went 12.59@113.5 on a pretty junkie street tire with CAI, long tubes, tune, and 4.10s. I really wanted to crack 11's with bolt on's + DRs, but I couldn't wait and did the cam before I could get to the track with the DRs. Should be bottom mid low 11's now - little setback on the rear end has kept me away from the track thus far this year, but I should be good to make passes the second half of the season!

[joeybsyc]

Personally I like learning how to launch with stock tires... Sure DR's make it easy, just like having an automatic makes it easy... but theres no fun in either of those things... and to master the art of clutch slip and throtttle roll-on without blowing off the stock tires is an art that is fun to learn. I certainly haven't mastered it yet, but it's cool to know your car runs the 1/4 in the EXACT configuration in which it drove there, and home. Keep doing what you're doing and you'll figure out where the sweet spot is and those 60 foots will come down as well as your ET.

[GONIF]

Originally Posted by joeybsyc

Personally I like learning how to launch with stock tires... Sure DR's make it easy, just like having an automatic makes it easy... but theres no fun in either of those things... and to master the art of clutch slip and throtttle roll-on without blowing off the stock tires is an art that is fun to learn. I certainly haven't mastered it yet, but it's cool to know your car runs the 1/4 in the EXACT configuration in which it drove there, and home. Keep doing what you're doing and you'll figure out where the sweet spot is and those 60 foots will come down as well as your ET.

Roasting a set of stock G2 rear tires that cost $275.00 each gives me pause these days.

[acammer]

Originally Posted by GONIF

Roasting a set of stock G2 rear tires that cost $275.00 each gives me pause these days.

I've seen F1 G2's cut 1.9x 60' times on manual cars - just takes a little practice. No roasting required - drive around the water, back in just to the edge, and give a quick rolling burnout just to clean them up and put a little heat in.

If the trap temp is low though - good luck, the G2 is pretty much worthless under 60*F ambient temperature, and doesn't really come alive until the road surface is 100*F+.

[olblue75]

But why drag race a purpose designed and built road course/auto x car?? stiff sway bars, shocks, struts equal no transfer.

[acammer]

Originally Posted by olblue75

But why drag race a purpose designed and built road course/auto x car?? stiff sway bars, shocks, struts equal no transfer.

If you have to explain it to someone... they probably won't understand anyways...

[TheInfamouSS]

Originally Posted by olblue75

But why drag race a purpose designed and built road course/auto x car?? stiff sway bars, shocks, struts equal no transfer.

People drag race snow mobiles. And that is a purpose designed and built ice/snow vehicle. I can tell you right now I purposely bought a 1/LE with the sole intent of making it a drag car because it looked better than all the other cars on the lot.

I was initially interested because of the 3.91 rear gearing, the appearance package, and well if I am spending my money on something Im picking the one I want. If you are really drag racing, no matter what car you have, your suspension is getting changed anyway (along with practically everything else in the car).

But then again, if I have to explain it to someone, they probably wouldn't understand.

[Matty Ice]

I understand the 3.91 gear and other things but the transmission kills the 1le 1/4mi times by having to shift 3rd-4th right before the finish line. How do you get around that? Just curious....

[acammer]

Originally Posted by Matty Ice

I understand the 3.91 gear and other things but the transmission kills the 1le 1/4mi times by having to shift 3rd-4th right before the finish line. How do you get around that? Just curious....

Uhh - my regular M10 ratio SS trans with had to shift out of 3rd right before the beams with stock 3.45 gears with just bolt ons. I don't know why everybody points at the 1LE and the MM6 ratios like they are some big punishment in the 1/4 mile. If you've got stock rear gears they are the SAME overall ratio in first and second, third is a little more overall ratio, and obvious fourth is quite a bit more ratio - which is a good thing, not a bad thing. 4.56's in a 1LE would really be a blast.

There is no getting around a 3 to 4 shift with either M6 car. Nor would you want to avoid 4th - an M6 car should be finishing deep in 4th, which is accomplished with better rear gear ratios, and potentially even running something like a 26" tire.