05-04-2010, 02:56 PM | #15 |
Drives: '69 SS Convertible Join Date: May 2009
Location: DFW, TX
Posts: 7,111
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Yes....it would probably be better to replace the factory lower bushing but from my understanding the flexing comes from the cheap, thin, pressed metal that the factory arms are made from more than the bushings. The Del-Sphere end does replace the upper TA bushing so you're only re-using the lower factory bushing.
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-2010 Camaro 2SS | M6 | VR w/White Stripes | 1 3/4" KOOKS - 3" Magnaflow | LPE 3.91 gears | ADM tuned | Halltech w/ADM Scoop | Spohn/BMR Trailing Arm/Toe Rod | BC Coilovers| Pedders FE4 ZL1 swaybars | Cradle/Diff/Radius Rod bushings | VMax TB | Morimoto Projectors | MGW shifter | Red Calipers
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05-04-2010, 05:59 PM | #16 |
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So what do you guys think should be done first?
diff bushing, rear sub frame, or trailing arms?
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2015 Corvette Z06.. Lime Rock Park 1:01; Watkins Glen 2:14; Thompson Speedway 1:21
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05-07-2010, 04:09 PM | #17 |
Drives: 2010 Camaro, 2006 Z06 Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: SLC, UT
Posts: 3,370
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Hey guys thank you for recommending our products. It just looks like the different manufacturers of rear trailing arms for the new Camaro have attacked it from different perspectives, thats all! Caverman obviously did some research and formed his own opinion as to what he felt would be best for his car and use. Naturally we want everyone to see the benefits our Pfadt products in particular but its great to see people making decisions this way! Not all products address every issue, and finding out which ones are important to you is a great way to go about it!
GQ4Life, it is our opinion that starting with the Rear Trailing Arms is a great idea. We have had many customers respond to us after installing our Pfadt arms that the wheel hop is gone. Others have had the same experience using our Rear Subframe Bushings. The Rear Subframe Bushings are a fantastic upgrade for many different reasons. But if your sole goal it to reduce wheel hop and have more controlled transfer of power to the ground, then trailing arms and diff bushings are where you want to start! Hope this helps guys! |
05-07-2010, 04:27 PM | #18 |
Drives: '69 SS Convertible Join Date: May 2009
Location: DFW, TX
Posts: 7,111
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I'm going to try the Spohn's with the factory bushings. If I still have issues the bushings will be next.
I'm just trying to save up for some headers and a tune. Unfortunately my mod fund had to take a small hit for the TAs but the headers won't do me any good if I can't get the power to the ground.
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-2010 Camaro 2SS | M6 | VR w/White Stripes | 1 3/4" KOOKS - 3" Magnaflow | LPE 3.91 gears | ADM tuned | Halltech w/ADM Scoop | Spohn/BMR Trailing Arm/Toe Rod | BC Coilovers| Pedders FE4 ZL1 swaybars | Cradle/Diff/Radius Rod bushings | VMax TB | Morimoto Projectors | MGW shifter | Red Calipers
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05-07-2010, 10:51 PM | #19 | |
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Quote:
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2015 Corvette Z06.. Lime Rock Park 1:01; Watkins Glen 2:14; Thompson Speedway 1:21
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05-08-2010, 01:58 PM | #20 |
NuptualNemesis
Drives: Silver 1SS M6 - 480hp 11.57/120.79 Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Baton Rouge, LA www.Divorcefor399.com
Posts: 310
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BMR makes the cheapest differential bushings. It is a three hour job to change these bushings. A BMR franchisee may have a tool to speed this up. I haven't changed mine because of labor cost. Do subframe bushings at the same time because subframe removal is probably required unless there is some special tool involved.
I did install the Pedder EP1200 subframe insert bushings and they did tighten things up. You can feel the expansion filler bumps a little more on a concrete road but it is no worse than my Nissan truck which rides pretty nice. I don't notice it on the Interstate or asphalt. These were $255.00 and pretty easy to put in. They fit above and below stock subframe bushings. I think this is worthwhile. The EP1201 is a replacement bushing set for $462 and they even have an EP 1201HD set for $595.00. Both require removal of stock bushings. This is labor intensive. I think they make a tool that helps. These are recommended over 450 rwhp I believe. I am sure these will make the ride harsher. I installed the BMR toe rods because it was easy but didn't really notice a difference in launch. The Spohn toe rods are adustable for toe adjustment on alignment. BMR makes an adjustable and non-adjustable toe rod. After market lower control arms are coming out now. They may help more than upper toe rods. Stock control arms look pretty strong though. I really don't have an issue with wheel hop with the 17" MT's. The Nitto drag radials will help control wheel hop probably more than anything else after the Trailing Arms. You can run them between 16 and 20 PSI to stop wheel hop. They will also improve 60 ft. more than any other add on and save the expensive stock street tire. The 18"Z06 replica rims are pretty cheap and fit well. You can then run any brand drag radial. I can run a 1" shorter tire in front than back with no ABS issues. I assume same is true visa versa. Smaller the front tire the more weight savings where it counts. ABS keeps getting more sophisticated and you may even be able to get away with bigger difference in tire size. It looked like the current, just shipped, GM High Tech Magazine test of Nitto NTO5R's ran a 18x9 front Z06 rim on the back with the NTO5R and stock rim and tire on front. This is probably a 2" tire height difference. I have been told the rear Z06 18x10.5 rim will also work but I would think the backspacing is awfully close to the back of the wheel well. (small spacer?) |
05-08-2010, 03:09 PM | #21 | |
Drives: '69 SS Convertible Join Date: May 2009
Location: DFW, TX
Posts: 7,111
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Quote:
Do you have a link for the Z06 replica wheels? I might consider those as well if I can't get things to hook up. I'm hoping to get back out to the track at the end of May or begining of June to see if all the tips that were given + the trailing arms help out. I have a feeling I'll do a lot better the next time. I'm also going to go practice the heel/toe launches in a big parking lot again.
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-2010 Camaro 2SS | M6 | VR w/White Stripes | 1 3/4" KOOKS - 3" Magnaflow | LPE 3.91 gears | ADM tuned | Halltech w/ADM Scoop | Spohn/BMR Trailing Arm/Toe Rod | BC Coilovers| Pedders FE4 ZL1 swaybars | Cradle/Diff/Radius Rod bushings | VMax TB | Morimoto Projectors | MGW shifter | Red Calipers
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05-10-2010, 12:39 PM | #22 |
Drives: 2010 Camaro, 2006 Z06 Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: SLC, UT
Posts: 3,370
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05-10-2010, 12:52 PM | #23 |
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nice
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Jannetty Racing JRE Street Package
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06-23-2010, 11:39 PM | #24 |
Prefer to be blown!
Drives: 2010 Silver/Black 2SS/RS Manual Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Nor-Cal
Posts: 2,677
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Thanks for all of the info Caverman, I just ordered the Tubular Rear Trailing Arms with Del-Sphere Pivot Joints in chrome-molly with the adjustment tool. I have raced the car one and had the wheel hop and can also see it at the end of my burnouts on the street. I will post more info after testing them out.
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06-24-2010, 09:36 AM | #25 |
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While I haven't been to the strip yet, I have yet to experience wheel hop as far as I can tell. Depending on what RPMs I launch from, I either bog or spin the tires. I do my best to balance these two, but why am I not experiencing wheel hop on factory PZeros when so many others are? My best 60 ft time (according to the dynolicious iphone app) was 2.19s. Am I simply not launching hard enough yet to introduce wheel hop? And finally, given my situation, would my launches still benefit from these TAs even if my wheels are staying on the ground?
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2010 Camaro 2SS/RS ( Corsa Catback Exhaust | Vararam | VMAX TB | Custom Tune - 386HP/383TQ)
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06-24-2010, 09:40 AM | #26 |
Camaro SL,UTs
Drives: 2010 Camaro SS/RS #16429 Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: South Jordan, UT
Posts: 7,358
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I had JDP Motorsports install the SPOHN rear trailing arms on my SS. But I just did the first level Polyurethane arms. But I can tell you the car digs squats and launches a whole lot better now. Now I'm not taking it to a drag strip but on those wide open desolate roads I tend to try a couple burnouts here and there
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06-24-2010, 09:48 AM | #27 | ||
Drives: '69 SS Convertible Join Date: May 2009
Location: DFW, TX
Posts: 7,111
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Quote:
BTW: some people suggest changing out the lower bushing of the wheel hub. I didn't do that but I might go back and do it at some point. You might consider doing it while you're there. I don't think Spohn has any poly bushings for it but I know Pfadt does. I think they sell for about $100. You might talk with Spohn and get their take on it. Quote:
Personally I would at least put on the basic TA. They are pretty cheap and easy to put on with no alignment required. If you look at the difference from the factory TA to any of the aftermarket TA you'll know it can't do anything but help.
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-2010 Camaro 2SS | M6 | VR w/White Stripes | 1 3/4" KOOKS - 3" Magnaflow | LPE 3.91 gears | ADM tuned | Halltech w/ADM Scoop | Spohn/BMR Trailing Arm/Toe Rod | BC Coilovers| Pedders FE4 ZL1 swaybars | Cradle/Diff/Radius Rod bushings | VMax TB | Morimoto Projectors | MGW shifter | Red Calipers
Build Journal |
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06-24-2010, 10:22 AM | #28 | |
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Quote:
Thanks guys.
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2010 Camaro 2SS/RS ( Corsa Catback Exhaust | Vararam | VMAX TB | Custom Tune - 386HP/383TQ)
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