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Old 03-20-2014, 12:53 AM   #15
1BLWN/LE
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I run Amsoil 10w 30 Z Rod in my 1LE, it's formulated perfectly for my supercharged/cam'd application. Plus it has corrosion inhibitors for long storage through the shitty central NY winters....
I use to run Mobil 1 until I evolved!!

I'm running Valvoline full synthetic in the transmission and differential per recommendation of a friend and I won't be changing those anytime soon, happy with them and that's before I discovered Amsoil...Otherwise I'd be running Amsoil throughout...

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Old 03-20-2014, 07:31 AM   #16
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Can you just use the Amsoil gear oil in the diff or do you need to add a friction modifier?
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Old 03-20-2014, 09:18 AM   #17
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I have a 50/50 of Lucas stabilizer and RP oil in the diff


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Old 03-20-2014, 11:22 AM   #18
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The article below is long, but a good read. Oil is made to prevent metal to metal contact. Bottom line. The article below tests this and gives results.
Mobil 1 is fine for anyone on the street. If your not racing the car, and putting in AMSOil or other expensive oil, all you are doing is wasting money.

http://speedtalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=30483
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Old 03-20-2014, 01:16 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigBlue2010 View Post
The article below is long, but a good read. Oil is made to prevent metal to metal contact. Bottom line. The article below tests this and gives results.
Mobil 1 is fine for anyone on the street. If your not racing the car, and putting in AMSOil or other expensive oil, all you are doing is wasting money.

http://speedtalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=30483


I'll never understand why those who use the more expensive brands, gasoline included, insist their brands are better they the less expensive brands. Just because you pay more does not mean it is a better product or will give you noticeable differences from less expensive brands. And to take it a step further, if you do not agree their brand is the best or say one slightly negative thing about their brand you will be insulted and demeaned. I'm just saying that I don't get it; nor do I want to.
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Old 03-20-2014, 02:27 PM   #20
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To each their own I guess. I get a great price on Amsoil and dont have a warranty due to modding, so I take care to do all I can to maintain the car as well as possible and the piece of mind is worth the extra $15 it costs me per oil change.
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Old 03-20-2014, 02:58 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by ST1LE View Post
To each their own I guess. I get a great price on Amsoil and dont have a warranty due to modding, so I take care to do all I can to maintain the car as well as possible and the piece of mind is worth the extra $15 it costs me per oil change.
+1 ...

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Old 03-20-2014, 07:55 PM   #22
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Ls30 is a better engine oil than amsoil imo.
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Old 03-20-2014, 08:39 PM   #23
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If anyone is to use high dollar lubricants Amsoil and Mobil are the best. Do not use royal purple, lucas or any other snake additives. I swapped my 2005 gto over to royal purple and every fricken thing began to leak starting at the diff pinion seal and trans output seal. That stuff is garbage. Last year I took a lubricant class to catch up on modern day stuff. The BIGGEST thing to look for and Amsoil is great for this is the product data sheets. Looking at the specs is important for Kinematic viscosity is crucial when looking for engine oil to tailor your needs. Most 5w30 and 10w30 oil is not the same anymore. Pull up data specs and compare Mobil 1 to Amsoil http://www.amsoil.com/lit/databulletins/g2880.pdf. They are pretty close. The biggest thing to look for is to make sure of course it is GM approved Dexos or GM LL-A-025, 6094M, 4718M. DO NOT go based on ILSAC ratings they are not up to snuff anymore. Make sure whatever oil you choose for the engine it has GM's blessing. ALSO it always helps to add a little ZDDP(Zinc dialyldithiophosphate) every other oil change as most of you may not know this but major lubricant companies are being forced by the Fed's to remove crucial "Boundary Lubricant" packages to reduce the amount going through the PCV system and into the catalytic converters. These boundary lubricants are crucial during the first 1000 miles after your oil change. Phosphate, zinc and other key elements are being taken away and nothing is being put back in its place. Its not just any oil works anymore at any viscosity. The best oils come at a price.

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Old 03-20-2014, 08:48 PM   #24
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I order amsoil a case at a time online. Delivered to my door next day usually.
It's cheaper than Mobil 1 from parts store.
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Old 03-21-2014, 07:48 AM   #25
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Thanks Matty, thats great info!!
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Old 03-21-2014, 08:18 AM   #26
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Free service for the first 2 years through the dealer. I'll let them provide all of that first before I switch things up.
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Old 03-23-2014, 08:59 PM   #27
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Using Amsoil in engine, and Redline for tranny and rear diff.

Switched to Amsoil immediately after using Mobil 1 and noticing a lot of oil in the catch can.
Car went to storage after Amsoil change, so I'll have to report back in the spring. Not saying that Mobil 1 caused anything, but its slowly becoming a documented fact that their oils are not as once was in the good ol days.

Plus I pay the same price as the Mobil 1 so I have nothing to lose here.

As for the Redline product, have been using it for driveline on all my ex machinery including BMW, and have over a million km's of tranny and diff free problems under my belt.

Still new with the Amsoil in engine though.
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Old 03-23-2014, 10:51 PM   #28
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Switched to amsoil 10-30 Z-rod after I did my cam swap. The zinc will help the valve train and cam lobes last longer from what I understand. Better to pay a little more than kick yourself when there is no lobes left on your aftermarket cam.
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