Anybody running Amsoil products. - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

wpl11972 · 03-19-2014, 10:34 AM

Like motor oil
Trans
Rear diff

ST1LE · 03-19-2014, 10:36 AM

I used their motor oil on my last oil change last month. The tech was happy to see my choice in oil, but I already knew it was top notch. Search 'Hemp' on this forum, he got me a great deal on 8 quarts and a filter that extends the life of the oil. You will get more help on the section that covers this topic though...just FYI.

RazorLED · 03-19-2014, 10:41 AM

I'v been using it in all my cars and trucks since 2007. Love it!

domano 68 · 03-19-2014, 11:00 AM

Na. Oil is oil as gas is gas. Flame away if you must.

summit1le · 03-19-2014, 11:07 AM

Using engine,tranny, and differential

ST1LE · 03-19-2014, 11:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by domano 68

Na. Oil is oil as gas is gas. Flame away if you must.

Do you truely believe all products were created equal? May want to do some research, you could be surprised at what you find out....a lot of products out there arent what they claim to be.

Joe@CPR.com · 03-19-2014, 11:56 AM

We stock almost the entire Amsoil line here, with what 99% of what our customers do to their cars it helps knowing they are running the good stuff

Green Machine · 03-19-2014, 11:59 AM

I will be running amsoil in everything.

RazorLED · 03-19-2014, 12:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by domano 68

Na. Oil is oil as gas is gas. Flame away if you must.

You know what they say: Ignorance is Bliss

punkindave · 03-19-2014, 12:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by domano 68

Na. Oil is oil as gas is gas. Flame away if you must.

As long as it meets or exceeds the manufacturers recommendations it'll work.. Who ever heard of engine failure if the oil is changed often enough? I've had many Chevys that ran well over 200k with just plain old GTX in the crankcase their entire life.

While I do NOT question the technical merit of AMSOil and others (I run AMSOil in the track bikes), it's just not very practical unless you subscribe to extending oil change intervals which I cannot agree with, especially when a car isn't a daily driver and the intervals exceed 9 months. To each his/her own..

Zerort · 03-19-2014, 03:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by domano 68

Na. Oil is oil as gas is gas. Flame away if you must.

That's why I always use Motorcraft.

CamaroTom · 03-19-2014, 06:33 PM

Amsoil in my LS3.

wpl11972 · 03-19-2014, 08:39 PM

Thanks guys. I know the rear needs limited slip added from amsoil. Running royal purple right now. I do track the car. So it's very important to me about replacing oils. The only fluid that has not been changed is coolant.

Kendall421 · 03-19-2014, 09:56 PM

Mixed feelings on this. I agree that if you change your oil often, crude oils are fine. Synthetic does provide less friction by most reports. My perspective may be different than most here. I raced Dirt Late Model's for 17 years. I was running a 421CID professionally built race motor making 765HP on the dyno with 13.6:1 compression. I was running on Methonal, so oil changes were a MUST! Even with gapless rings, Alky gets into the oil. Running on dirt track...no matter what you do, dirt gets into the motor.

I never ran synthetic oil in my race motors! Why? With the alky and dirt getting into the motor every weekend...It was 10 quarts out and 10 fresh quarts in and new filter after every race weekend. Thankfully I had a sponsor that covered all my oil and filters! Some guys ran synthetic and said they did because they could run 3-4 weekends on an oil change. I think that is rediculous. If you get dirt and alky in synthetic...it is in there just as it is crude oil. It then circulates through your bearings for the next 3-4 weekends scratching and scraping your cylinder walls and bearings. I do not want dirty oil in my motor...crude or synthetic. My engine builder was always shocked how clean my motors were after a full season of racing, typically about 30-35 shows. We would turn a 421CID motor at 7800 RPM's and I never broke a motor screaming it that hard!

So...on a street car like a 1LE, I have mixed emotions. Since I don't plan to change the oil each time it hits the street, I will likely run Synthetic. But I will still change oil every 3000 miles to get the dirt and impurities out of the motor. I run Synthetic in my HD2500 Duramax cause you have to...and I change it about every 6-8K miles. I change the oil on my daily drivers every 4k miles religiously and use just Valvoline crude oil. I went 234K in my old Buick, have 178K on the Trailblazer and 169K on my 2009 Traverse! Regular oil changes...crude or synthetic...the motors will last in today's cars.

03-19-2014, 10:34 AM	#1
wpl11972 Drives: 1LE Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: Delaware Posts: 133	Anybody running Amsoil products. Like motor oil Trans Rear diff

03-19-2014, 10:36 AM	#2
ST1LE Drives: E92 BMW M3 Join Date: Oct 2012 Location: Houston Posts: 4,496	I used their motor oil on my last oil change last month. The tech was happy to see my choice in oil, but I already knew it was top notch. Search 'Hemp' on this forum, he got me a great deal on 8 quarts and a filter that extends the life of the oil. You will get more help on the section that covers this topic though...just FYI. __________________ SOLD - 2013 1LE - Pat G Spec'd Cam, NPP with 1 7/8" Long Tube Headers with High Flow Cats, Intake w/scoop, Ported Throttle Body, and Apex 1.25" Lowering Springs. J-Rod Built and Matt@FSP Tuned

03-19-2014, 11:00 AM	#4
domano 68 Drives: 2014 1LE Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: SE Posts: 627 View My Garage	Na. Oil is oil as gas is gas. Flame away if you must. __________________

03-19-2014, 11:07 AM	#5
summit1le Drives: 15 Lexus RCF, 17 Vette Grand Sport Join Date: Apr 2013 Location: South Florida Posts: 549	Using engine,tranny, and differential __________________ 2013 Summit 1SS 1LE w/NPP, SW 1 7/8" Long Tube Headers, CAI Intake, Ported TB, Cammotion 224/232 113 LSA, BTR Valvetrain, Melling Oil Pump, 468 HP 423, Apex Catch Can, Tank Plates, RPM 4 Point Roll Bar with SCCA/NASA Cross Brace, Schroth 6 Point Han's Harness, OMP WRC Front Seats, F.M.T Trailing Arms, F.M.T Solid Aluminum Subframe Bushings, Moreno Motorsports Camber Plates, BMR Bushings Front and Rear, Essex/AP Racing Radi-Cal Endurance Front Brakes, Quantum Brake Cooling Ducts, ZL1 Rockers, ZL1 Air Deflectors, Heritage Grill, Pfadt Springs.

03-19-2014, 11:59 AM	#8
Green Machine Always Workin Drives: 2021 Mazda MX-5 Join Date: Aug 2013 Location: Youngstown, OH Posts: 1,362	I will be running amsoil in everything. __________________ 2023 Vivid Orange 1SS 1LE 6MT Arrived 8/31 Purchased 9/3 2018 1SS 1LE, HyperBlue Metallic (Sold) 2014 1SS 1LE, Black, Twin Turbo (Sold) Last edited by Green Machine; 03-19-2014 at 08:53 PM. Reason: autocorrect fail

03-19-2014, 10:41 AM	#3
RazorLED Drives: 2014 2SS 1LE Join Date: Dec 2013 Location: Earth Posts: 383	I'v been using it in all my cars and trucks since 2007. Love it!

03-19-2014, 11:56 AM	#7
Joe@CPR.com Account Suspended Drives: 03 vette, 94 trans am, 04 gto Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: Mesa, AZ Posts: 995	We stock almost the entire Amsoil line here, with what 99% of what our customers do to their cars it helps knowing they are running the good stuff

03-19-2014, 06:33 PM	#12
CamaroTom Drives: 1/70 2013 BRM 2SS RS 1LE NPP NAV Join Date: Feb 2013 Location: Parrish, Florida Posts: 1,082	Amsoil in my LS3. __________________

03-19-2014, 08:39 PM	#13
wpl11972 Drives: 1LE Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: Delaware Posts: 133	Thanks guys. I know the rear needs limited slip added from amsoil. Running royal purple right now. I do track the car. So it's very important to me about replacing oils. The only fluid that has not been changed is coolant.

03-19-2014, 09:56 PM	#14
Kendall421 Drives: 1969 Z28, 1982 Z28, 2014 SS/RS/1LE Join Date: Nov 2013 Location: Michigan Posts: 886	Mixed feelings on this. I agree that if you change your oil often, crude oils are fine. Synthetic does provide less friction by most reports. My perspective may be different than most here. I raced Dirt Late Model's for 17 years. I was running a 421CID professionally built race motor making 765HP on the dyno with 13.6:1 compression. I was running on Methonal, so oil changes were a MUST! Even with gapless rings, Alky gets into the oil. Running on dirt track...no matter what you do, dirt gets into the motor. I never ran synthetic oil in my race motors! Why? With the alky and dirt getting into the motor every weekend...It was 10 quarts out and 10 fresh quarts in and new filter after every race weekend. Thankfully I had a sponsor that covered all my oil and filters! Some guys ran synthetic and said they did because they could run 3-4 weekends on an oil change. I think that is rediculous. If you get dirt and alky in synthetic...it is in there just as it is crude oil. It then circulates through your bearings for the next 3-4 weekends scratching and scraping your cylinder walls and bearings. I do not want dirty oil in my motor...crude or synthetic. My engine builder was always shocked how clean my motors were after a full season of racing, typically about 30-35 shows. We would turn a 421CID motor at 7800 RPM's and I never broke a motor screaming it that hard! So...on a street car like a 1LE, I have mixed emotions. Since I don't plan to change the oil each time it hits the street, I will likely run Synthetic. But I will still change oil every 3000 miles to get the dirt and impurities out of the motor. I run Synthetic in my HD2500 Duramax cause you have to...and I change it about every 6-8K miles. I change the oil on my daily drivers every 4k miles religiously and use just Valvoline crude oil. I went 234K in my old Buick, have 178K on the Trailblazer and 169K on my 2009 Traverse! Regular oil changes...crude or synthetic...the motors will last in today's cars.