HVAC problems - blend door?

[Nghtshd88]

Originally Posted by thef4ng

Also had my blend door break too. The actuator work. But the door itself had broken in two pieces. I didn’t want to spend over a grand to have the dealer fix it. So I cut a panel under the dash on the drivers side to access it. Hardest part was getting the dremel in there.

Any pics of where you made the hole? Having this same issue.

[Stinger85]

Is there anyone in Georgia who has done this on there own, bypassing the dealership? I will gladly pay.
I have a 2015 ls. Already purchased the part. Then realized I'm out of my league.

Kentonhaskell@gmail.com

[sixty9fordkiller]

its a lot that can be overlooked in putting it back together (not to mention the fact that the oem windshields are usually hard to remove but if you can find someone to do it right and affordably....then you have found the holy grail to this issue

the joker said it best:

"if you're good at something, never do it for free!"

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

[PowertoLove]

After looking at the videos on you tube etc on replacing the door I'm surprised no one hasn't ever cut the out the passenger side opposite the actuator to replace it. Looks wide open there and nothing to remount. Just cut it out and glue it back in.

[uvraise]

Not sure if I'm having the same issue or not, but I'm trying to eliminate all possibilities. Where did you place the clamp on the hose? Did you have to replace it afterwards?

Originally Posted by Sleeper_Six

QUICK, TEMPORARY, EFFECTIVE FIX:

I have this issue, and can't afford to get it fixed properly right now. The HVAC tech pulled me aside and told me that if I just need to get through the Summer and save up to get it done professionally, I can pinch off one of the heater hoses going into the firewall to prevent hot coolant getting to the heater core.

I used a fuel line clamp on one of the heater hoses and it immediately cooled down and after a few minutes, it was like there wasn't even a problem.

[GenJerDan]

Originally Posted by PowertoLove

After looking at the videos on you tube etc on replacing the door I'm surprised no one hasn't ever cut the out the passenger side opposite the actuator to replace it. Looks wide open there and nothing to remount. Just cut it out and glue it back in.

Good question. There must be a reason. Perhaps difficulty getting the driverside end into the actuator? Fishing out the broken piece?

Still, even with that it sounds like it would take less time, and the passenger side is certainly easier to get to.

I hope someone can give an answer why we shouldn't do it from that side.

I definitely don't want to spend $2000 to replace a $10 part.

Dan

[gpskinzhut]

My '14 is presenting this issue and the wife is unlucky enough to have to drive it daily. Looks like she'll be in the SS for a day or two while I get to fix this nonsense.

[CreeperRS]

I own a 2014 1LE. I’ve had AC trouble from the first week that I bought it. I’ve been going to the same dealership that I bought it from, never been anywhere else. That replaced the AC compressor 4 times, the condenser 3 times, and the entire AC system, twice!! Just got the car back about 1 month 1/2, the AC worked for a day, the heater, now doesn’t work. I can’t de fog the windshield, or get to come out the vents! Air comes out, but it’s ambient air, AC, or heater. I scheduled a visit to the dealership again!

[camguynj]

Originally Posted by Rmerrell

Has anyone achieved this repair without removing the windshield since the thread was started? I ordered the Haynes manual to start the work and will follow some of the pictures from the HUD install. Just wondering.

2014 Camaro SS with 45k on it.. sucks this shit breaks and is a common problem across the board on these cars.

Thanks in advance for any insight.

Great video on how to replace the blend door WITHOUT having to remove the dash or the windshield https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Py-2uk...ature=youtu.be

Removing drivers seat to get to the blend door is optional but recommended.

[camguynj]

Originally Posted by polizzio

I am familiar with electric and pneumatic actuators from a previous job. Many use physical limit switches to control the actuator. Or a torque/voltage sensing circuit, to stop actuator current when the hard stop is contacted, or before breaking something/overload. Evidently the Camaro blend door actuator does not have a current or torque limiting feature which would prevent failures. Too costly or deemed unnecessary for such a simple task. Something is most likely causing additional friction or binding of the blend door hinge/ pivot point over time. Or a mechanical blockage by foreign object (doubtful).

Still could be from long term heat from the heater core, something melting or fusing. Or perhaps the blend door pivot pin was lubricated from the factory with some sort of grease and over time and heat, or dust and dirt, the lubrication fails. The actuator does not suddenly just develop more power over time. Could be an alignment issue with the door/actuator/mechanism or linkage too, if there is such components.

One of the guys who actually repaired this, did the complete disassembly and eyeballed the configuration and details of the failure would have the best diagnosis.

As you mention the cause of the problem could certainly be the blend door bottom pivot pin/stub binding, as opposed to the actuator producing excess torque over time, either of which could cause the blend door top stub that’s attached to the actuator grommet fitting to shear off, or the problem could be a combo of the two I’m thinking the bottom stub is not lubed at all so when replacing the blend door it might be a good idea to lube it with a dry PTFE lube.

[lemontwist]

i did mine when i did the heater core,i did the whole job myself without removing the windshield. not a easy thing to do.
the best advise i saw on camaro5 was DO NOT TURN IT ALL THE WAY TO HOT. i believe it put's unneeded stress on the blend door and 2 notches short is plenty hot.
although mine was not broke i replaced it while i was in there ac delco for 12 bucks.i had it apart in my hands let me assure you excess torque over time is the problem.....
12 bucks
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...SDKJMFk7BG7GcG

[CamaroJim56]

Anyone in FL that has done this successfully and want to make some $$ ?

[CamaroJim56]

Okay, in case someone stumbles onto this post and is looking for what I was, I paid $710 out the door. They do the cut through the bottom, no dash pull, Christian Brothers Automotive, in Brandon FL. They seem to have done a great job, I just picked it up. Pm me if there are any questions.

[camguynj]

Originally Posted by CamaroJim56

Okay, in case someone stumbles onto this post and is looking for what I was, I paid $710 out the door. They do the cut through the bottom, no dash pull, Christian Brothers Automotive, in Brandon FL. They seem to have done a great job, I just picked it up. Pm me if there are any questions.

Did they quote you a flat price up front or by the hr?