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Old 07-29-2018, 02:06 PM   #1
tazman
 
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Stuck with crank pulley install

I have my new crank pulley on and it looks like it has about 1/4" to go yet but with the old bolt I am using an extra piece of pipe over my ratchet to get extra torque the way I was able to get it loose and it does not seem to pull the pulley in. I have the ARP bolt and I was wondering if I should be good to finish the installation with the ARP bolt and it should pull in with the proper torque?
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Old 07-29-2018, 03:08 PM   #2
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You need something longer than a stock bolt to install it properly or you risk pulling the threads out. A very expensive mistake since you'll need a new crank if stripped. They sells tools for this...
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Old 07-29-2018, 03:16 PM   #3
theflea42
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You need one of these tools,
https://www.autozone.com/loan-a-tool...aller/787830_0

Yeah, it might be 60 bucks, but its worth every penny in not destroying anything. I bought one and I've used it 3 times on the 5.3 liter that I built for my s10.
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Old 07-29-2018, 03:16 PM   #4
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I have that it is on just has 1/4 until it is flush with the front of the crank as seen in the picture above.

Thanks
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Old 07-29-2018, 03:22 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theflea42 View Post
You need one of these tools,
https://www.autozone.com/loan-a-tool...aller/787830_0

Yeah, it might be 60 bucks, but its worth every penny in not destroying anything. I bought one and I've used it 3 times on the 5.3 liter that I built for my s10.
I don't have that specific unit but it is on there I am just concerned how much torque I am putting on the crank and it doesn't seem to move anymore .
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2015 2LT RS overkill tune, 80MM throttle body with JacFab spacer, ported intake manifold and Roto-Fab cold air intake. Vitesse throttle controller.
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Old 07-29-2018, 03:43 PM   #6
theflea42
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Actually, I have the napa 38700 tool, https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/SER38700 (nothing wrong with the autozone tool, napa was closer when I picked it up)

The crank snout should sit in no more than 0.175 inches from the edge of the balancer. I found that measurement in the book I have about gen 3 and 4 ls-based engines.

I think you should be able to install the ARP bolt now, following their instructions for lube and torque specs.
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Old 07-29-2018, 03:46 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theflea42 View Post
Actually, I have the napa 38700 tool, https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/SER38700 (nothing wrong with the autozone tool, napa was closer when I picked it up)

The crank snout should sit in no more than 0.175 inches from the edge of the balancer. I found that measurement in the book I have about gen 3 and 4 ls-based engines.

I think you should be able to install the ARP bolt now, following their instructions for lube and torque specs.
Ok thanks it's close I wish I could get Ted fjanetty to get back to me but with it being Sunday.
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Old 07-29-2018, 05:07 PM   #8
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Don't use the new bolt until you get the depth right. Crank snout depth needs to be .094" to .176". Use a small machinist rule to check. If your saying 1/4", that's not really an exact measurement.

I'd first call the balancer supplier on Mon and ask if it uses the same depth spec as OE?

Then make sure you are using a flywheel locking tool, and balancer installation tool (not just the bolt). I'd also ask the balancer supplier if you should be using a diamond friction washer behind the balancer. GM par # 12674588

If putting it on with just a bolt, recipe for disaster. Invest in both a flywheel holder and balancer installer. Along with that friction washer behind the balancer.
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Old 07-29-2018, 11:51 PM   #9
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I went and borrowed the installer from Autozone. It's all back together and everything seems fine.
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2015 2LT RS overkill tune, 80MM throttle body with JacFab spacer, ported intake manifold and Roto-Fab cold air intake. Vitesse throttle controller.
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