JANNETTY RACING FORCED INDUCTION Q&A

[ttedesco]

Its a 14 1LE, stock LS3 with just a dynosteve tune.

Originally Posted by JANNETTYRACING

Ok help me help you, What car, engine, trans, and current mods?

[JANNETTYRACING]

Originally Posted by ttedesco

Its a 14 1LE, stock LS3 with just a dynosteve tune.

Your 1LE already has a ZL-1 pump and tank, however the fuel system control module is not tuned to take advantage of the pump.

I would recommend Injector Dynamics ID1050x , a 3 bar map sensor, TR7IX plugs, MSD wires, and our JRE Fuel system control module if you want to continue to tune with SCT.

I don't know what parts exactly make up the kit you have so I can't predict what power it will make.

If everything is right 600 RWHP is reachable although will be right on the edge on 93 octane.

Ted.

[dreksnot]

Originally Posted by eLeSthree

based solely off the force induction tunes I've paid for over the last couple years, they all seem to start pulling 1 degree of timing at 140. At 203 mine pulls 8 degrees.

With the centri blowers I've run, I have never seen over 137 degrees on a 93 degree day doing back to back runs. Normally I'm well below 120.

I'm not a tuner, just speaking from limited experience. Maybe Ted will elaborate.

Most of the paid (and other) E85 tuners I've tried to corner about this won't answer with any specifics or confidence. Sure, GM has some conservative timing pull in the IAT table. When 16-18psi boost (heat of compression), I used to start pulling a degree or two around 140*F, then ramp up to 4-5* timing around 180*F. With the bigger turbos and the capability to pump up to 26-28psi (more heat by compression), I've relaxed and haven't started pulling a degree until 176*F, with 5* at 203*F. Looking at a log from a 1/4-mile run, I hit 209*F (pulling -4.8*) with nothing detrimental appearing. Since, I've tried 100% water injection to see how it could cool IAT, and have happily seen IAT's around 135*F spraying water at 27psi boost, no timing being pulled, and no other detrimental effects.

Be curious as to what Ted would say..... not sure if he'll chime in about this as it's one of those mystical demonic value things that I'm not sure anyone has solid results of hurting a motor (or as far as the many I've inquired). But I'm just one of those end users with HPTuners. I've even had some ricer guys jump in and say if you're under 280*F, you're golden.

[JANNETTYRACING]

Originally Posted by dreksnot

Most of the paid (and other) E85 tuners I've tried to corner about this won't answer with any specifics or confidence. Sure, GM has some conservative timing pull in the IAT table. When 16-18psi boost (heat of compression), I used to start pulling a degree or two around 140*F, then ramp up to 4-5* timing around 180*F. With the bigger turbos and the capability to pump up to 26-28psi (more heat by compression), I've relaxed and haven't started pulling a degree until 176*F, with 5* at 203*F. Looking at a log from a 1/4-mile run, I hit 209*F (pulling -4.8*) with nothing detrimental appearing. Since, I've tried 100% water injection to see how it could cool IAT, and have happily seen IAT's around 135*F spraying water at 27psi boost, no timing being pulled, and no other detrimental effects.

Be curious as to what Ted would say..... not sure if he'll chime in about this as it's one of those mystical demonic value things that I'm not sure anyone has solid results of hurting a motor (or as far as the many I've inquired). But I'm just one of those end users with HPTuners. I've even had some ricer guys jump in and say if you're under 280*F, you're golden.

Let me say this manufacturers spend millions developing the strategy to protect the engine in its as delivered configuration.

You first have to be an engine builder and have a full understanding of all the how and why the changes made for performance will effect that strategy.

We tune the main tables to find optimum spark advance under given set of conditions and the IAT tables are there to adjust the advance to compensate for the accelerated burn rate of the mixture as temps rise.

People look at is as a power killer but it is not, it is there to fine tune spark advance as temps rise.

As intake air temps rise the fuel burns faster, so it needs less lead to hit the target peak cylinder pressure at 15 degrees after top dead center so it can do the most work on the crank.

I can talk about this subject for hours but this should give you a basic understanding.

Ted.

[dreksnot]

Originally Posted by JANNETTYRACING

Let me say this manufacturers spend millions developing the strategy to protect the engine in its as delivered configuration.

You first have to be an engine builder and have a full understanding of all the how and why the changes made for performance will effect that strategy.

We tune the main tables to find optimum spark advance under given set of conditions and the IAT tables are there to adjust the advance to compensate for the accelerated burn rate of the mixture as temps rise.

People look at is as a power killer but it is not, it is there to fine tune spark advance as temps rise.

As intake air temps rise the fuel burns faster, so it needs less lead to hit the target peak cylinder pressure at 15 degrees after top dead center so it can do the most work on the crank.

I can talk about this subject for hours but this should give you a basic understanding.

Ted.

I get what you're saying, Ted. Increased IAT results in a shorter combustion duration (with lower O2 concentration as well) thus leading to a less complete mixing process and "incomplete" combustion (comparatively). So, the moral is to either keep IAT's relatively low or to effectively reduce timing to target peak torque (or cylinder pressure) if IATs go high. I'm trying the keep IAT's lower with 100% water injection. Just need to watch how much I'm spraying so as to not get cylinder spark quench with too much.

[Warship2k15]

I’m not answering for ted but wouldn’t a longer burn time even with advancing the timing actually make less Hp.
I would think that there is a fine line between between to quick a burn or to long.
Which is why people mix it and don’t run pure water.

[JANNETTYRACING]

Originally Posted by Warship2k15

I’m not answering for ted but wouldn’t a longer burn time even with advancing the timing actually make less Hp.
I would think that there is a fine line between between to quick a burn or to long.
Which is why people mix it and don’t run pure water.

As long as peak cylinder pressure occurs at 15 Degrees after top dead center you make optimum power with no damage.

Adjusting timing is accounting for burn rate.

[chevy 3]

Ted. quick maybe question

I have 2013 ss 1LE
Long tube headers , cold air , stage 4 btr cam, upgraded oil pump , lifters , rods ,
Just wondering if I need to change the cam to put a Lsa super charger on.
I understand there are many way better setups to choose but I’m looking for a factory look and a little more push not going crazy.
Thanks in advance.

[JANNETTYRACING]

Originally Posted by chevy 3

Ted. quick maybe question

I have 2013 ss 1LE
Long tube headers , cold air , stage 4 btr cam, upgraded oil pump , lifters , rods ,
Just wondering if I need to change the cam to put a Lsa super charger on.
I understand there are many way better setups to choose but I’m looking for a factory look and a little more push not going crazy.
Thanks in advance.

I would suggest changing the cam to something more appropriate for supercharger application as you would be blowing your boost out the tail pipe.

Fuel system upgrades and large injectors will be necessary.

Contact me directly for parts and tuning.

Ted.

[chevy 3]

Thanks Ted. So when it’s time.A blower cam bigger injectors and fuel system. I’m assuming the fuel pump will be ok.

[JANNETTYRACING]

Originally Posted by chevy 3

Thanks Ted. So when it’s time.A blower cam bigger injectors and fuel system. I’m assuming the fuel pump will be ok.

With the addition of a Fuel pump voltage booster and FSCM tuning or replacement.

[Shodown]

Hey Ted,

How much HP increase have you guys seen on 5th gen ZL1s with your 75rwhp kit + your LSA rough idle race cam kit?

[JANNETTYRACING]

Originally Posted by Shodown

Hey Ted,

How much HP increase have you guys seen on 5th gen ZL1s with your 75rwhp kit + your LSA rough idle race cam kit?

We have never done a cam with a 75 RWHP kit because you need all the supporting mods that are in our 125 RWHP package

So if you have 75 package your next move is our 75-125 upgrade.

Then add the cam.

The cam is worth anywhere from 50-150 RWHP depending on combo.

[Shodown]

Originally Posted by JANNETTYRACING

We have never done a cam with a 75 RWHP kit because you need all the supporting mods that are in our 125 RWHP package

So if you have 75 package your next move is our 75-125 upgrade.

Then add the cam.

The cam is worth anywhere from 50-150 RWHP depending on combo.

That makes sense. I essentially have all the supporting mods in the 125 rwhp package just missing the 18% pulley. I’d probably have to upgrade the fuel pump again to an aux pump though.