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Old 03-23-2012, 08:26 PM   #15
mickymaro69
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 010 Camaro SS View Post
Dropped mine off today "oil Leak"...Oil pan gasket...They said
8 hours to change (GM Notes)...He says his mechanic will do it in
4 hours...Has done a few...Will see when i pick it up tomorrow...

hope all goes well for you. let us know will ya?
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Old 03-23-2012, 08:27 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by BigBlue2010 View Post
Dropped mine off on Monday for "oil leak", got a call the same day saying it was the oil cooler that was leaking. They replaced it. Have not picked it up yet, so i can't verify if there is no more leak.

interested to hear what you find when you get her back. keep us posted please.
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Old 03-23-2012, 08:29 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by yotaman96 View Post
I lifted the engine with a cherry picker and lowered the k-member a bit. I still couldn't get the oil pan off, but it was down far enough to slide the gasket around the oil pick up. The Whipple made it where I couldn't lift the engine as much as those with a stock intake. If you still have a warranty, I would let the dealer do it. If you do it yourself, don't forget to apply rtv at the corners where it meets the front and rear covers.
thinking the same. just looking around for a more competant dealer than the one where i purchased from as already have been sorely dissapointed by them. thanks for the input.
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Old 03-24-2012, 11:24 AM   #18
010 Camaro SS

 
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Picked it up on Thursday...Everything looks o-k ...Going out for
a ride right know...
Oh yeah ...got a oil change out of the deal...Cool...
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Old 03-25-2012, 06:06 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by 010 Camaro SS View Post
Picked it up on Thursday...Everything looks o-k ...Going out for
a ride right know...
Oh yeah ...got a oil change out of the deal...Cool...
awesome!! thanks for taking the time to let us know. please do keep us up to date on how she does and thanks again.
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Old 03-25-2012, 06:09 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yotaman96 View Post
I lifted the engine with a cherry picker and lowered the k-member a bit. I still couldn't get the oil pan off, but it was down far enough to slide the gasket around the oil pick up. The Whipple made it where I couldn't lift the engine as much as those with a stock intake. If you still have a warranty, I would let the dealer do it. If you do it yourself, don't forget to apply rtv at the corners where it meets the front and rear covers.
where did you tag on to the engine from with the hoist? and did you have to take the front bumber off because one forum member said that is necessary for this job and that dont sound quite rite to me
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Old 03-25-2012, 06:40 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by mickymaro69 View Post
where did you tag on to the engine from with the hoist? and did you have to take the front bumber off because one forum member said that is necessary for this job and that dont sound quite rite to me
I already had the front end off, but I think it could be done with it on. I also had the transmission out at the time. I used an existing bolt hole on one of the heads at the front of the engine and on the rear I used a hole where the trans bolts to. The only reason I didn't use the head on the rear of the engine is the chain wanted to rub the Whipple. Since the trans was out, it worked better.

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Old 03-26-2012, 04:37 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by yotaman96 View Post
I already had the front end off, but I think it could be done with it on. I also had the transmission out at the time. I used an existing bolt hole on one of the heads at the front of the engine and on the rear I used a hole where the trans bolts to. The only reason I didn't use the head on the rear of the engine is the chain wanted to rub the Whipple. Since the trans was out, it worked better.


wow! you're the man! thanks a bunch for sharing the pic and the information. I probably will get this done at a dealership but still helps tremendously to know what all will be touched when this fix is preformed. So the existing bolt hole on the head was being used for something that was removed at the time? or should i look for one that is free right from the start?
thanks again..
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Old 03-26-2012, 06:19 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by mickymaro69 View Post
wow! you're the man! thanks a bunch for sharing the pic and the information. I probably will get this done at a dealership but still helps tremendously to know what all will be touched when this fix is preformed. So the existing bolt hole on the head was being used for something that was removed at the time? or should i look for one that is free right from the start?
thanks again..
You should be able to use one that's free from the start. I also unbolted the motor mounts and the steering shaft. If you don't have to lower the subframe, you won't have to unhook the steering shaft. I had to because I needed more room. Probably easier without the Whipple. One more issue is the factory oil pan gasket is attached to the pan with a rivet on each side. No big deal if you can get the pan completely off, but not easy to drill them out or cut them off while still on the car.
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Last edited by yotaman96; 03-26-2012 at 06:49 AM.
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Old 03-26-2012, 08:21 PM   #24
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You should be able to use one that's free from the start. I also unbolted the motor mounts and the steering shaft. If you don't have to lower the subframe, you won't have to unhook the steering shaft. I had to because I needed more room. Probably easier without the Whipple. One more issue is the factory oil pan gasket is attached to the pan with a rivet on each side. No big deal if you can get the pan completely off, but not easy to drill them out or cut them off while still on the car.
many thanks yotaman96. now i just got some deciding to do...
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Old 03-27-2012, 01:28 AM   #25
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changed my pan gasket today, 2 hours, but i cut the brace under the pan and made it bolt in now so if i ever need to do anything with the pan off it will be very easy.

the original gasket that came rivited to my pan when i built my engine was gray and very squishy(soft) the replacement GM gasket is black and uses a firmer rubber, i also used some Anaerobic Sealer on the metal portion of the gasket for a little more security against leakage
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Old 03-27-2012, 06:26 AM   #26
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changed my pan gasket today, 2 hours, but i cut the brace under the pan and made it bolt in now so if i ever need to do anything with the pan off it will be very easy.

the original gasket that came rivited to my pan when i built my engine was gray and very squishy(soft) the replacement GM gasket is black and uses a firmer rubber, i also used some Anaerobic Sealer on the metal portion of the gasket for a little more security against leakage
Holy smoke, now theres an interesting idea! I would like to hear more specifics. what did you cut the brace with? what other major tools were required (like did you need welding equip)? awesom idea though. do you think the cars' frame loses any integrity or rigidity this way?
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Old 03-27-2012, 07:20 AM   #27
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Originally Posted by camaro1 View Post
changed my pan gasket today, 2 hours, but i cut the brace under the pan and made it bolt in now so if i ever need to do anything with the pan off it will be very easy.

the original gasket that came rivited to my pan when i built my engine was gray and very squishy(soft) the replacement GM gasket is black and uses a firmer rubber, i also used some Anaerobic Sealer on the metal portion of the gasket for a little more security against leakage
I'd like to see pics of the brace now that it's bolt in.
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Old 03-27-2012, 04:27 PM   #28
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Yet another 2010 Camaro SS will have it's oil pan gasket replaced tomorrow by the dealer. Been in the shop for almost a week and they think now it's the gasket so out goes the engine and I hope this fixes this.
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