Starting Problem Again. - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

frack · 11-02-2018, 06:22 PM

Came home last night parked in garage.The next morning I got into car to go to work and went to start the car, clicked for a second or two and would not start. Lights are on, gauges are on, fan for transmission cooler are running, stereo's on but car won't start(Dummy gauge reads about 9 volts). Gauge says to put window up down on driver side and passenger side. I do this but its slow. So grab jumper cables and jump car. Starts immediately. Let it run for 2 minutes turn the car off and then nothing. Same thing only now the service stabilitrak light comes on for a second. Also said 4 keys programmed which is impossible, because I have only 2 keys. Scratching my head on that one. Screw it, I left camaro at home. When I came home same thing car would not start. Checked voltage to battery was 12.6 or so, but dummy gauge reads less than 10 volts. I removed negative and positive cable for few minutes and then I jumped car again. Checked voltage to terminal up front and it would read exactly the same as if I read directly from battery(12 + but only 9 or so at the dummy gauge. Batteries seems good, right? So the car starts after jumping for 10 minutes with Sonota, but immediately I notice the car sounds like its not running right and look up stabilitrak is on and this time I check codes with the scan tool. Po172 and Po175 again. So I turn car off and again I remove battery cables for about 10 minutes this time. Hook them back up and car starts right up no jumper cables this time. Now battery reads 14 volts. Dummy gauge well past 12 volt. No stabilitrak light, no window lights. Car runs like a beast up and down the road. So the is the po172 and po175 codes causing my start issues? Fuel filter? Injectors? To many things going on and for now the car starts right up? WTF???

frack · 11-02-2018, 07:46 PM

Well that did not last. Dead Battery.

lil-bit · 11-02-2018, 09:35 PM

Mine did the same stabilitrac on the dash no start. My starter keeps dying. I changed the starter it starts then does the same thing on the 2nd or 3rd crank. Kills my starter.

lil-bit · 11-02-2018, 09:36 PM

I've changed battery alternator starter fuse box under the hood still can't find what's killing my starter. And actually the ecm fuse will blow sometimes thus saving the starter but if it desont blow that fuse my starter frys

Rock-It Man · 11-03-2018, 07:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by frack

Well that did not last. Dead Battery.

Yep. Start with the simplest and most obvious.

How old was the old battery, by the way?

camguynj · 11-03-2018, 10:30 AM

Even though your voltage reads 12.6 DOESN'T mean your battery is good !

You need to do a load test with a battery analyzer to show how long the battery can hold a charge (ie. volts measure the battery's current voltage charge but the amount of CCA (cold cranking amps) the battery is rated for to deliver starting power isn't sufficient to start the engine because it can't hold the volts charge long enough once it's power supply (the car's alternator) is no longer charging the battery. You need on average ~70% of CCA to start the car. Less than that and your battery doesn't haven't cell capacity due to sulfation to produce the amps needed to start the car. A battery analyzer load test will show what per cent of CCAs are available to start the car. If you don't have a battery anyalzer ( a cheap one from Harbor Freight is ~ $60) go to any garage , PEP Boys , etc. and have it done there.

frack · 11-03-2018, 06:09 PM

definitely failed test. Measured only 37 CCA out of 765. Yep that would prevent it from starting. The thing that was baffling was lights, radio, fans for transmission ran without being dim, low. Never have I owned a car that behaved in that manner without going absolutely completely dead. I should say that I ever remember, but I am no expert. It is the original battery 8 years old. New battery($200) and all is good.

camguynj · 11-03-2018, 09:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by frack

definitely failed test. Measured only 37 CCA out of 765. Yep that would prevent it from starting. The thing that was baffling was lights, radio, fans for transmission ran without being dim, low. Never have I owned a car that behaved in that manner without going absolutely completely dead. I should say that I ever remember, but I am no expert. It is the original battery 8 years old. New battery($200) and all is good.

Glad to hear it

8yrs was a good run, longer than most.

11-02-2018, 06:22 PM	#1
frack Drives: 2010 Inferno Orange SS Join Date: Sep 2014 Location: United States Posts: 120 View My Garage	Starting Problem Again. Came home last night parked in garage.The next morning I got into car to go to work and went to start the car, clicked for a second or two and would not start. Lights are on, gauges are on, fan for transmission cooler are running, stereo's on but car won't start(Dummy gauge reads about 9 volts). Gauge says to put window up down on driver side and passenger side. I do this but its slow. So grab jumper cables and jump car. Starts immediately. Let it run for 2 minutes turn the car off and then nothing. Same thing only now the service stabilitrak light comes on for a second. Also said 4 keys programmed which is impossible, because I have only 2 keys. Scratching my head on that one. Screw it, I left camaro at home. When I came home same thing car would not start. Checked voltage to battery was 12.6 or so, but dummy gauge reads less than 10 volts. I removed negative and positive cable for few minutes and then I jumped car again. Checked voltage to terminal up front and it would read exactly the same as if I read directly from battery(12 + but only 9 or so at the dummy gauge. Batteries seems good, right? So the car starts after jumping for 10 minutes with Sonota, but immediately I notice the car sounds like its not running right and look up stabilitrak is on and this time I check codes with the scan tool. Po172 and Po175 again. So I turn car off and again I remove battery cables for about 10 minutes this time. Hook them back up and car starts right up no jumper cables this time. Now battery reads 14 volts. Dummy gauge well past 12 volt. No stabilitrak light, no window lights. Car runs like a beast up and down the road. So the is the po172 and po175 codes causing my start issues? Fuel filter? Injectors? To many things going on and for now the car starts right up? WTF???
$frack is offline$

11-02-2018, 07:46 PM	#2
frack Drives: 2010 Inferno Orange SS Join Date: Sep 2014 Location: United States Posts: 120 View My Garage	Well that did not last. Dead Battery.
$frack is offline$

11-03-2018, 06:09 PM	#7
frack Drives: 2010 Inferno Orange SS Join Date: Sep 2014 Location: United States Posts: 120 View My Garage	definitely failed test. Measured only 37 CCA out of 765. Yep that would prevent it from starting. The thing that was baffling was lights, radio, fans for transmission ran without being dim, low. Never have I owned a car that behaved in that manner without going absolutely completely dead. I should say that I ever remember, but I am no expert. It is the original battery 8 years old. New battery($200) and all is good.
$frack is offline$

11-02-2018, 09:35 PM	#3
lil-bit Drives: 2000 SS Join Date: May 2011 Location: San Antonio Posts: 30	Mine did the same stabilitrac on the dash no start. My starter keeps dying. I changed the starter it starts then does the same thing on the 2nd or 3rd crank. Kills my starter.

11-02-2018, 09:36 PM	#4
lil-bit Drives: 2000 SS Join Date: May 2011 Location: San Antonio Posts: 30	I've changed battery alternator starter fuse box under the hood still can't find what's killing my starter. And actually the ecm fuse will blow sometimes thus saving the starter but if it desont blow that fuse my starter frys

11-03-2018, 10:30 AM	#6
camguynj Drives: '13 SS/RS LS3 BRM Cammed NPP Join Date: Jan 2013 Location: NJ Posts: 3,812 View My Garage	Even though your voltage reads 12.6 DOESN'T mean your battery is good ! You need to do a load test with a battery analyzer to show how long the battery can hold a charge (ie. volts measure the battery's current voltage charge but the amount of CCA (cold cranking amps) the battery is rated for to deliver starting power isn't sufficient to start the engine because it can't hold the volts charge long enough once it's power supply (the car's alternator) is no longer charging the battery. You need on average ~70% of CCA to start the car. Less than that and your battery doesn't haven't cell capacity due to sulfation to produce the amps needed to start the car. A battery analyzer load test will show what per cent of CCAs are available to start the car. If you don't have a battery anyalzer ( a cheap one from Harbor Freight is ~ $60) go to any garage , PEP Boys , etc. and have it done there.