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Old 04-03-2020, 03:41 PM   #1
Gordy87
 
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Overheated Engine

Ok so 1st off its been while since I been on. Have a few questions if I may inquire for some help please. So last week I drive car to work, which is only about 7 miles. Was only there for about an hour since we shutdown for 2 weeks amid the COVID-19 mess. On way back home, car starts missing some under acceleration, and then throws a P0307 code with flashing CEL. Pulled code after I had pulled over and light stopped. Anyway, drive on home and park car until yesterday, as I was to report to work for coupke hours again. Pulled out of drive, and started off, same rough stutter under acceleration again. Now keep in mind I have had some issue's with tune that we are still trying to work on. So give it a slight throttle taking off after stopping at intersection, stumbles again, so then I give it a little more throttle then boom, flashing CEL, and P0307 code. Start on journey back home, as I'm only about 1 mile from home, about 1/2 mile from house DIC reads A/C turned off due to temp (or something close). After noticing gauge is pretty high, look at OBD2 data and see its about 240F (+-). Rolling up to intersection, which is only about 500ft from my drive, get engine temp too high (or something close) on DIC. Limp into drive and reading on temp is 260F.

So after seeing coolant was empty, performed a leak test on cooling system this morning, found that radiator must be cracked around crimped section on bottom of radiator. Will replace with an all aluminum 3 row, but should I be concerned about any other possible damage? Never had any overheat problems on an "all aluminum engine, so lookibg for so support or go to's that I may want to check. As always thanks for the help C5 family.
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Old 04-04-2020, 03:23 AM   #2
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As long as you don’t have water or metal in the oil you’re good
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Old 04-04-2020, 12:11 PM   #3
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Thats good news to hear. Guess I should have stated that was the 2nd thing I done after realizing had no coolant in radiator. No coolant in oil either, and not seeing any metal present, but I had actually sent in for a Blackstone kit last week and it just arrived today. So I'll be changing the oil and sending off an analysis sample. I am in process of doing conpression testing as well again. Done it yesterday and all ranged between 165psi-195psi. Does that seem normal? Anyway, dropped some Marvel oil in all cylinder bores and let it sit overnight, so once I get finished with all the bores today I'll report back and attach an image as well.
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Old 04-04-2020, 02:28 PM   #4
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Ok, so compression test readings as picture states.. Also pulled valve covers and inspected springs, pushrods, rockers arms, and trunnions due to the P0307 code popping up and the rough running, but all are ok. If the engine was having this higher than normal temp (overheat) would that cause the car to act this way? Would the computer be trying to correct either of the fuel, timing, spark, or air due to excessive heat? Have radiator on order, and since its gonna be a few days, just curious what else I may need to look out for. Thanks in advance for all the help.
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Old 04-04-2020, 07:18 PM   #5
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compression test looks good. As other s have stated. as long as there is not water in oil, or oil in coolant, id say its safe to say that the head gaskets are OK.

As far as your other questions go, im not that savy with the computer side of these newer cars. I didnt see anything mentioned in your above posts, how did your spark plugs look?
the plugs will tell you alot about what your engine is doing. Check your plug wires as well for any cracks or burns.
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Old 04-04-2020, 08:53 PM   #6
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I'd scope number 7, look around the edges of the piston for signs the ring land lifted. Number 7 runs hot normally so overheating can break the piston.
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Old 04-14-2020, 09:56 AM   #7
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You may want to be prepared for your AC not to blow cold after the limp mode and AC turned off alert. I had a similar situation and when it went into limp mode due to the high temp it over torqued the blender door and snapped it. I had to replace it using a Dremel cut out method to access the area under the dash.
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Old 04-16-2020, 04:55 PM   #8
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Ahhh. Thankfully mine is still functioning after getting new radiator in. Still have the skipping/stutter (misfire code) after firing it off and going for a drive, but issue moved to #8 from #7 cylinder. Moved the wires to #1 cylinder and took another drive and it was acting same way, but never resulted in the flashing CEL or Stabiltrac lights, nor did it give a P0301. I am sure its the plug wire for some reason even though it looks fine. But on another note, when getting up to temp and taking a drive, after returning, notice coolant puddled up around filler neck like it had pushed out past cap. Rinsed off and inspected level as I was swapping wires around and put cap back on. Took another drive, this time with the wire on #1 cylinder, same skip/misfire/hesitation, but no code. Pushed RPM's a little harder trying to gwt a code to set to see if it was definitely #1 due to wire swap but wouldnt. After getting back and popping hood, coolant was everywhere. So now I'm wondering if this new radiator has bad cap, or do I have another issue? Block building pressure and pushing back thru radiator? Is that possible? Any help wohld be great.
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Old 05-21-2020, 05:16 PM   #9
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Sooooo. Yeaaaaa. Just an update since I havent been on in a good while. But this happened. Blew both gaskets out, which is what lead to my radiator failure to begin with I'm almost certain. On the bright side though, it did get me an aluminum radiator upgrade, so thats a plus.
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Old 06-16-2020, 07:29 PM   #10
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So now that everything is back together and been driving the car around some to get the feel of it again. Working on the tune, which is coming along good, but at idle only when car is 1st started and warming up, the rpm's will climb to around 1200 to 1300 rpm when clutch is pushed in during a rolling stop. Also it will idle great and not fluctuate at all, until the a/c or heat is actually running, then it will surge, but only when clutch is pushed in and sitting or coming to a stop. An idea's what to look for in HPTuners to possibly adjust/correct these slight issues?
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