MGW shifter + notchiness?

[Stingr69]

Originally Posted by blake-b

I just installed an MGW shifter. The hardest part for me was putting the bushings in the arms... My car is currently under construction and the exhaust is off and that made a huge difference in access. I had no issues at all using the hex key to pop the pins out of the tranny.

My question is: is it me or does it seem like 1st and Reverse don't seem to engage as much as the other gears. Due to my car not running, I could only row through the gears sitting in the garage. For a bit, I didn't feel I was able to get it into Reverse at all. I kept messing with it and realized it just doesn't seem to have as positive as an engagement as the other gears.

Go to the MGW web site and watch part 2 of the install video from about 5:30 or so all the way to the end. This is probably what is causing the problem. Check the install angle of your shifter. I suspect you are too far up in the front. If you push the shifter up too far up in the front and then tighten the 2 supports, you can have some issues getting into first gear and reverse. It has to do with the limit of travel on the internal part of the shifter mechanisim. If you are too high in front, the shifter will run out of travel on those 2 "outside, and to the front" gears in the shift pattern(first and reverse are the "outboard" and "forward" gears in the shift pattern). I could describe it more but it might get confusing. Loosten the 2 support bolts at the shifter and pull the shifter down a few degrees, snug the support bolts then check inside the car to see if first and reverse feel better. If it feels like it is working right now then fully tighten the 2 support bolts to lock it down and that should take care of it. You just needed a little less angle.

-Mark.

[MGW]

Originally Posted by blake-b

I just installed an MGW shifter. The hardest part for me was putting the bushings in the arms... My car is currently under construction and the exhaust is off and that made a huge difference in access. I had no issues at all using the hex key to pop the pins out of the tranny.

My question is: is it me or does it seem like 1st and Reverse don't seem to engage as much as the other gears. Due to my car not running, I could only row through the gears sitting in the garage. For a bit, I didn't feel I was able to get it into Reverse at all. I kept messing with it and realized it just doesn't seem to have as positive as an engagement as the other gears.

The reason you cannot engage reverse is because you dont have the car on!!

all t56 and tr6060 transmissions have a reverse solenoid lockout feature that only gets bypassed when the vehicle is actually on., you'd have to gorilla the HEAVY coil spring out of the way when you try to engage reverse with no 12v power to the solenoid.


george

[MGW]

Originally Posted by Stingr69

Go to the MGW web site and watch part 2 of the install video from about 5:30 or so all the way to the end. This is probably what is causing the problem. Check the install angle of your shifter. I suspect you are too far up in the front. If you push the shifter up too far up in the front and then tighten the 2 supports, you can have some issues getting into first gear and reverse. It has to do with the limit of travel on the internal part of the shifter mechanisim. If you are too high in front, the shifter will run out of travel on those 2 "outside, and to the front" gears in the shift pattern(first and reverse are the "outboard" and "forward" gears in the shift pattern). I could describe it more but it might get confusing. Loosten the 2 support bolts at the shifter and pull the shifter down a few degrees, snug the support bolts then check inside the car to see if first and reverse feel better. If it feels like it is working right now then fully tighten the 2 support bolts to lock it down and that should take care of it. You just needed a little less angle.

-Mark.

this is VERY true excpet for the new ones being shipped within the last month or so have a built in alignment pin now so no need for this to worry about.

BUT good call though because the poster also talks about having to swap the bushings out so he must have an older design since we have had new bushings included in our kits also for several months.


george

[Stingr69]

Originally Posted by MGW

this is VERY true except for the new ones being shipped within the last month or so have a built in alignment pin now so no need for this to worry about.

BUT good call though because the poster also talks about having to swap the bushings out so he must have an older design since we have had new bushings included in our kits also for several months.


george

Thanks George for making these upgrades in the design. I bet you can guess why I would know about the issue.

-Mark.

[blake-b]

Originally Posted by Stingr69

Go to the MGW web site and watch part 2 of the install video from about 5:30 or so all the way to the end. This is probably what is causing the problem. Check the install angle of your shifter. I suspect you are too far up in the front. If you push the shifter up too far up in the front and then tighten the 2 supports, you can have some issues getting into first gear and reverse. It has to do with the limit of travel on the internal part of the shifter mechanisim. If you are too high in front, the shifter will run out of travel on those 2 "outside, and to the front" gears in the shift pattern(first and reverse are the "outboard" and "forward" gears in the shift pattern). I could describe it more but it might get confusing. Loosten the 2 support bolts at the shifter and pull the shifter down a few degrees, snug the support bolts then check inside the car to see if first and reverse feel better. If it feels like it is working right now then fully tighten the 2 support bolts to lock it down and that should take care of it. You just needed a little less angle.

-Mark.

Thanks Mark. I remember when installing it pushing up hard because the lower boot (the bottom one that comes through the top and engages around the tunnel opening) was hanging down in front. I haven't had a chance to adjust the arms yet but will do so when I get home from work.

Originally Posted by MGW

The reason you cannot engage reverse is because you dont have the car on!!

all t56 and tr6060 transmissions have a reverse solenoid lockout feature that only gets bypassed when the vehicle is actually on., you'd have to gorilla the HEAVY coil spring out of the way when you try to engage reverse with no 12v power to the solenoid.


george

LOL... I was able to get it into reverse... by pushing very hard. I hope I didn't break anything...

[Stingr69]

Originally Posted by blake-b

Thanks Mark. I remember when installing it pushing up hard because the lower boot (the bottom one that comes through the top and engages around the tunnel opening) was hanging down in front. I haven't had a chance to adjust the arms yet but will do so when I get home from work.



LOL... I was able to get it into reverse... by pushing very hard. I hope I didn't break anything...

I do not like the boot gap either. A very small boot gap will leak a lot of sound into the cabin. The added insulation helps but the way it looks to me it was just a somewhat questionalble design. It should have been EASY to just use the factory front boot retainer holes to securely close up the air leak. I just don't get it.

George - feel free to comment.

-Mark.

[blake-b]

That is why I pushed up on it. I didn't think the gap was supposed to be there. It was still there even after I pushed it up and tightened it down. I'm not as concerned about noise as I would be water getting up there. Even in light rain or some water on the road, there is a chance some moisture could get up in there.

[MGW]

Originally Posted by Stingr69

I do not like the boot gap either. A very small boot gap will leak a lot of sound into the cabin. The added insulation helps but the way it looks to me it was just a somewhat questionalble design. It should have been EASY to just use the factory front boot retainer holes to securely close up the air leak. I just don't get it.

George - feel free to comment.

-Mark.

you guys seem to have an older design. we have a billet front boot clip included in all of our new shifters and EVERYONE that has an older shifter should have gotten the upgrade kit with the boot and the new red bushings that go in the linkage down below to be used with the stock OEM linkage pin .

if you dont have this boot and want it just call julie or peggy at 706-793-1770


george

[Stingr69]

Originally Posted by MGW

you guys seem to have an older design. we have a billet front boot clip included in all of our new shifters and EVERYONE that has an older shifter should have gotten the upgrade kit with the boot and the new red bushings that go in the linkage down below to be used with the stock OEM linkage pin .

if you dont have this boot and want it just call julie or peggy at 706-793-1770


george

George,
Thanks for the heads up. I have requested this.

We apreciate the great customer service!

-Mark.

[blake-b]

I called and spoke to George himself. I was hooked up with the upgrade as well! Thanks MGW!!!

ETA: received the upgrade kit today (05-09-2011) and installed it. Very easy to do for those that don't have it. I was also able to adjust the shifter so it isn't hard to get into 1st gear anymore. I did have it pushed up too far. I do have another question, I was checking clearances for the transmission control tube (?) where it shows in the video the gentleman being able to move his whole hand in their. I can't do that in all gears. In 1-3-5 there is plenty of clearance and I could probably do that. In 2-4-6, I can barely get my index finger in there - perhaps 1/2" or a little more. Is that enough clearance? I can't see the transmission moving up enough and staying up long enough to take that clearance away to cause any issues.

Thanks again George for making this awesome shifter!