Noises, what are they and should I get a new clutch

[Valkyrie14]

For anyone familiar with my posts I have had some noise issues. Started with driveshaft safety loop touching my exhaust (took a while to isolate that). I just replaced a wheel hub that was growling pretty loud now. It was so gradual in coming on I didn’t notice how loud it really got.

Now I am down to the engine, exhaust, tire noise and a couple of other unknown sounds. I have found that describing noises to people on the forum is a challenge.

I suspect that it is trans/clutch related. My SS has 85,500 miles on it and about 11,000 since I converted to LSA. The previous owner drag raced it and had a nitrous system (I removed, didn’t know the guy and didn’t trust it).

My clutch likes to mash to the floor when I go WOT. I changed the fluid and have a Tick reservoir.

So I am thinking I am probably due for a clutch anyway.

What noises are associated with worn clutch? And what kind should I be looking for? Monster, McLeod, Tilton, Ram? I am planning on doing the slave cylinder to, basically all of the replaceable stuff when I am in there. This is a DD I’m around 600HP now and want to be at 700HP when I am done.

Noises? Clutch recommendations?

[fz4k98]

Clutch issues are typically not noise but more like vibration, slipping, burning smell etc.

I've had mcleod, mantic and now a spec 3+. The mcleod had a vibration on my car that eventually i couldn't take so i replaced it with the mantic.

The mantic drove great but only made it 5k miles before both disks warped at the hub making it so it did not have enough clearance to release.

Just put the spec 3+ inlast week. I'm still in break in but it works great and after 250 miles is feeling like a clutch i want.

[Valkyrie14]

Originally Posted by fz4k98

Clutch issues are typically not noise but more like vibration, slipping, burning smell etc.

I've had mcleod, mantic and now a spec 3+. The mcleod had a vibration on my car that eventually i couldn't take so i replaced it with the mantic.

The mantic drove great but only made it 5k miles before both disks warped at the hub making it so it did not have enough clearance to release.

Just put the spec 3+ inlast week. I'm still in break in but it works great and after 250 miles is feeling like a clutch i want.

I would be pretty upset if a clutch only lasted me 5k. I will take a look at the Spec 3.

[Valkyrie14]

Update: I had a 4 hour drive today and got a chance to really listen the car. The noise I am currently trying to isolate is really noticeable in 2cd and 3rd gear. When I push in the clutch pedal the noise goes away. In 4th the noise either stops or the engine and exhaust are louder and I can’t hear the noise anymore.

Not sure if this is normal clutch noise or or signs of wear.

[fz4k98]

Clutch noises are rpm related. Transmission noises are speed and gear related. If the noise is different in each gear at the same rpm the clutch would only contribute to that through clutch vibration.

The gear ratios of each gear act as a multiplier and may multiply the vibration (through the input shaft) with the lower gears being worse. This was the case on my previous clutch system.

[eLeSthree]

I would highly suggest one of these while you are in there. Monster makes them also. I installed a brand new slave cylinder when I did my McLeod RXT HD clutch install. I never flushed the system since the damn bleeder valve is so hard to reach. After a couple thousand miles I had a similar rattling sound that went away when I push the clutch pedal in. When I installed the 427, I replaced the Slave Cylinder again, but this time I used the Tick billet support, and Tick remote speed bleeder. I also completely flushed the system (brakes too) several times. (best I could without abs procedure)

https://www.tickperformance.com/tick...ave-cylinders/

I wish I had done this from the start..

Myself and 2 other 1000+whp camaros local to me, all run the RXT HD with good results. I have never had a vibration issue.

My friend has a Monster LT1-SC Triple rated for 1500whp and it drives like a dream and will hold anything you can throw at it. If I were to buy another clutch, it would be this one. But its pricey.

[Valkyrie14]

[QUOTE=fz4k98;10987717]Clutch noises are rpm related. Transmission noises are speed and gear related. If the noise is different in each gear at the same rpm the clutch would only contribute to that through clutch vibration.

The gear ratios of each gear act as a multiplier and may multiply the vibration (through the input shaft) with the lower gears being worse. This was the case on my previous clutch system.[/QUOTE

So if the noise changes from 2K rpm to 4K rpm that would be clutch. But a noise that is there in 3rd, but not 4th would be transmission? The last thing I want to do is replace the transmission. Changing the clutch excites me. Not sure what that is about considering the procedure is the same.

[Valkyrie14]

Originally Posted by eLeSthree

I would highly suggest one of these while you are in there. Monster makes them also. I installed a brand new slave cylinder when I did my McLeod RXT HD clutch install. I never flushed the system since the damn bleeder valve is so hard to reach. After a couple thousand miles I had a similar rattling sound that went away when I push the clutch pedal in. When I installed the 427, I replaced the Slave Cylinder again, but this time I used the Tick billet support, and Tick remote speed bleeder. I also completely flushed the system (brakes too) several times. (best I could without abs procedure)

https://www.tickperformance.com/tick...ave-cylinders/

I wish I had done this from the start..

Myself and 2 other 1000+whp camaros local to me, all run the RXT HD with good results. I have never had a vibration issue.

My friend has a Monster LT1-SC Triple rated for 1500whp and it drives like a dream and will hold anything you can throw at it. If I were to buy another clutch, it would be this one. But its pricey.

I am going to swap out everything once I am in there. Slave, remote bleeder, throw out bearing and shift cup. I’m not looking to pull the tranny more than once.

I am still looking at all clutches including RXT and Monster. I’ve been reading old threads about clutches on here. I am also looking at the Mantic 9000. I like that Monster packages most of the other parts I want to put on as options at checkout. Makes me feel better that everything will jive together on install.

I’m confused by all the comments saying, “feels like stock pedal”. I find the stick pedal to be stiff and the return is too hard. I’m also looking at replacing the clutch pedal return.

I see the tick options on pedal return kit and clutch master cylinder, about $170 combined. I also see Wilwood makes one that looks pretty beefy for twice that. So many choices... This is a DD, I do enjoy blowing people up on the street though. Thankfully none of you 1000+ rwhp guys live where I do.

[fz4k98]

It could be clutch, it could be trans or it could be the combination. In my case the trans had a small vibration that would be unnoticed with the factory clutch but made unacceptable with a twin disk from one brand but not the other.

Collect as much info as possible about the conditions when it happens (cold, hot, constant throttle, accelerating, clutch pedal position, rpm etc.) And think through the inf.

Or, as you say changing the clutch excites you. Go for it. I've pulled my trans more times than changing the oil in the last 2 years.

[Valkyrie14]

So I have been listening the best I can. The light grinding noise I hear is in 2cd and 3rd. In third it goes away when I get above 3,000 rpm. Noise also goes away when clutch pedal is engaged.

Throw out bearing? Car shifts fine, I have to jam it into first from a stop occasionally. Anything to be concerned with?

[fz4k98]

The throw out bearing / slave is in constant contact with the pressure plate fingers. Pressing on the clutch pedal would increase pressure on the bearing and could change a noise.

If you are at a constant speed and rpm at what part of the pedal travel does the noise disappear? If you are at the point prior to the clutch disengaging (top half or so of pedal travel) It is more likely the throw out bearing / slave as the clutch is still engaged and driving power through the transmission.

[Valkyrie14]

Originally Posted by fz4k98

The throw out bearing / slave is in constant contact with the pressure plate fingers. Pressing on the clutch pedal would increase pressure on the bearing and could change a noise.

If you are at a constant speed and rpm at what part of the pedal travel does the noise disappear? If you are at the point prior to the clutch disengaging (top half or so of pedal travel) It is more likely the throw out bearing / slave as the clutch is still engaged and driving power through the transmission.

The noise goes away as I reach the point that the clutch first engages. If I am going from 2cd into 3rd the noise resumes as I hit the point that I am in fully in gear.

I initially thought this was due to the clutch wearing out (which may be the case also). Since the noise seems to be related to 2cd and 3rd then it may be more transmission related, so throw out bearing or slave cylinder. All I know is that Trans is over my head. I want to know if what I am hearing is an early signal for failure.

It’s not in the budget now for a clutch, but I was planning on doing the throw out bearing and slave cylinder when I do the clutch anyway. If it is something else, like the transmission itself then that would be a different story.

[fz4k98]

If it is driving and performing fine, I would 1st try a fluid change as the least costly item and easiest to perform. Make sure you use a high quality fluid. I just rid of the gm fluid and it helped my cold shifting.