GUYS WITH RIDETECHS STEP IN

[OmniCamaro]

What about this problem/issue/head scratcher! I have a JPSS rear bar, hopefully when I remove the other side I’ll have more room!

Pic’s showing where the coilovers spring nut is at currently.

No idea why the pics are sideways, ground is on the right.

[OmniCamaro]

Originally Posted by OmniCamaro

What about this problem/issue/head scratcher! I have a JPSS rear bar, hopefully when I remove the other side I’ll have more room!

Pic’s showing where the coilovers spring nut is at currently.

No idea why the pics are sideways, ground is on the right.

Figured it out, all I had to do was remove the other side and the sway bar moved freely enough to get them both on. Now on to the fronts!

[ZWA SS]

Originally Posted by VR Baron

Just little 3 and 5 mm spacers from the tire shop. Firestone 500s are junk for autocross. For street ok I guess.

I don’t autocross. I would like to hit the road course again but no clue when. They’ll just be street tires.

[OmniCamaro]

Anyone have a pic of their installed fronts? I’m looking at the sway bar end link and wondering if I should swap it to the front of the top bracket. Thoughts?

The link is tilted towards the rear at the top.





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[VR Baron]

Originally Posted by OmniCamaro

Anyone have a pic of their installed fronts? I’m looking at the sway bar end link and wondering if I should swap it to the front of the top bracket. Thoughts?

The link is tilted towards the rear at the top.





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Install per instructions.Top end link threaded bolt needs to be installed from back of bracket, going forward with nut installed from the front.
If you do it with endlink on the front of the bracket the torque stress will pop out the bracket bolts. Don’t ask how I know😞

[OmniCamaro]

Originally Posted by VR Baron

Install per instructions.Top end link threaded bolt needs to be installed from back of bracket, going forward with nut installed from the front.
If you do it with endlink on the front of the bracket the torque stress will pop out the bracket bolts. Don’t ask how I know😞

Oh damn, sorry to hear that! I followed the instructions and nowhere did it mention anything about the fronts being side specific. After I got the drivers side on I found out they are in fact side specific. Well, an easy enough fix moving the brackets around, thank god.
The instructions say your mileage may vary depending on sway bar (I have JPSS big bars)and that the link should be as “straight” as possible. I’ll keep it as is in my pic per instructions, if it fails it’s on them.

Now onto getting her back on her feet and getting the ride height where I want it. I’m sure getting to that nut with the spammer wrench with the tires on is a chore! Fun times! Sure hope it’s worth it!

[VR Baron]

Originally Posted by OmniCamaro

Oh damn, sorry to hear that! I followed the instructions and nowhere did it mention anything about the fronts being side specific. After I got the drivers side on I found out they are in fact side specific. Well, an easy enough fix moving the brackets around, thank god.
The instructions say your mileage may vary depending on sway bar (I have JPSS big bars)and that the link should be as “straight” as possible. I’ll keep it as is in my pic per instructions, if it fails it’s on them.

Now onto getting her back on her feet and getting the ride height where I want it. I’m sure getting to that nut with the spammer wrench with the tires on is a chore! Fun times! Sure hope it’s worth it!

Yeah the endlink section being behind the bracket instead of in front like all the others threw me off, and others to. Just do it per instructions, connect to the swaying, set ride hieght and don’t worry about any angle of the endlink. Their design. And on this shape swaybar and strut design it doesn’t really matter the angle
As to height set it with wheel off. Can’t do it any other way on any coilover. I used a micrometer and took readings from two points I could accurately repeat. The front perch adjusting ring moves about 1 mm per one full turn. The tears about the same if I recall.
Be careful if the front passenger side front. Mine was higher from the factory. To make both sides even, the passenger side will measure about 8 mm less.

[OmniCamaro]

Originally Posted by gmpartsman

my rims are front 20x10 23 offset with the 275's and the rears are 20x11 43 offset with the 315's. the camber is -1.2. front fender lip measures 29 1/8 and rear is 29 1/4. u understand that there may be a driving tradeoff for having a lowered car but I feel that this is beyond crazy.
I called ridetech today and josh asked for some measurements. I will call him tomorrow with that info and hopefully he can come up with something to fix the rubbing issue.
heck in doing research on lowered cars on this site before going this route it seemed that a alot of guys were lowered running the same wheel spec and tire setup.

Do you have pics of where the spanner nuts are on your coilovers? Somethings seems off for mine, the fronts are hand tight to the spring while the rears are extremely tight, so tight I’m going to need a breaker bar if I want to raise it more, which I do. Seems odd.

[VR Baron]

Originally Posted by OmniCamaro

Do you have pics of where the spanner nuts are on your coilovers? Somethings seems off for mine, the fronts are hand tight to the spring while the rears are extremely tight, so tight I’m going to need a breaker bar if I want to raise it more, which I do. Seems odd.

Mine are the same.The rears at 26 1/4” from lower wheel lip to fender lip gets hard to turn. The front are easy at 25.75”

Seems tire clearances were based off of stock SS wheel offsets and tire sizes