[Tazz3069]

Has anyone installed a set of Stainless Works headers? I was wondering how difficult it is. I was reading the directions and it seems like there is a lot of stuff that needs to be removed. was just wondering if there is an easier way to do it.

[marknagy13]

I've done Kooks headers myself which I can imagine is exactly the same process. It is not fun at all. There is a lot of stuff to remove and the engine bay is extremely tight. I would recommend paying someone to do it if you can afford it.

[L78toLT1]

I did my kooks myself, working off of Jack stands. It was fairly involved but not too difficult. I pulled off my starter and removed motor mounts on both sides. This level of disassembly made the header installation pretty easy. I have since seen posts where guys are claiming that they installed headers without removing anything. If this is true, it would have certainly made my installation go much quicker. I didn't even try it before removing the starter/mounts as the prevailing notion at the time was that these parts had to come out

[Dubchitts]

Originally Posted by L78toLT1

I did my kooks myself, working off of Jack stands. It was fairly involved but not too difficult. I pulled off my starter and removed motor mounts on both sides. This level of disassembly made the header installation pretty easy. I have since seen posts where guys are claiming that they installed headers without removing anything. If this is true, it would have certainly made my installation go much quicker. I didn't even try it before removing the starter/mounts as the prevailing notion at the time was that these parts had to come out

I think they did it with a lift. I think you have to tilt the header more than you would be able to with the ground clearance jack stands give you. I only did the starter for my kooks and the steering shaft

[blazzin1]

I have 2.0” Stainless Works Headers on the way! I installed my own headers on my 5th Gen, hopefully this won’t be too much more difficult. I’m getting kind of concerned with all the posts lately about clearance issues with the TSP and Kooks 2.0” headers, but haven’t seen anyone mention issues with SW yet! I’m planning on changing out the motor mounts to the BMR tubular units at the same time.

[Tazz3069]

Originally Posted by blazzin1

I have 2.0” Stainless Works Headers on the way! I installed my own headers on my 5th Gen, hopefully this won’t be too much more difficult. I’m getting kind of concerned with all the posts lately about clearance issues with the TSP and Kooks 2.0” headers, but haven’t seen anyone mention issues with SW yet! I’m planning on changing out the motor mounts to the BMR tubular units at the same time.

out of curiosity, why did you go with the 2" headers. I am planning 1 7/8". I did see a you tube video where a couple of guys removed the coolant reservoir, plug wires, air box, dip stick and steering shaft. They did have a lift, which made it easy for the install.

[Ichabod]

Did my Kooks headers myself on a 2 post lift. Stock manifolds came out the top and the headers went in from underneath. I left the starter and motor mounts alone, only thing I really had to move out of the way was the steering shaft (easy) and coolant reservoir on the passenger side (unbolt, remove and cap the small front hose and rotate the tank up out of the way.) The hardest part was the dipstick tube.

As others have mentioned, the install is not at all difficult, just time consuming. Took me about 6-7 hours working with a friend. I would do it again rather than pay someone else to do it, I prefer the peace of mind that comes with knowing that the job was done without cutting any corners.

[L78toLT1]

Agreed on the dip stick tube. A major pita!

[Dubchitts]

Originally Posted by L78toLT1

Agreed on the dip stick tube. A major pita!

I forgot about that damn thing for the second time as I was putting my motor back together after my cam swap. Even with BMR tubular motor mounts you can't snake it in there. I was able to get away with just loosening the headers tho

[blazzin1]

Originally Posted by Tazz3069

out of curiosity, why did you go with the 2" headers. I am planning 1 7/8". I did see a you tube video where a couple of guys removed the coolant reservoir, plug wires, air box, dip stick and steering shaft. They did have a lift, which made it easy for the install.

I chose the 2.0” headers because someday I plan on being supercharged. It will probably be a long while out, but I don’t want any regrets at that point! I may lose a couple HP now, but when that day finally comes, I don’t want to have any thoughts of, “I wish I would have bought 2.0” instead”! I don’t have a lift, but want to get a set of the “quickjacks” before I attempt the install. Yes, another item to wait on...

[Tazz3069]

Originally Posted by blazzin1

I chose the 2.0” headers because someday I plan on being supercharged. It will probably be a long while out, but I don’t want any regrets at that point! I may lose a couple HP now, but when that day finally comes, I don’t want to have any thoughts of, “I wish I would have bought 2.0” instead”! I don’t have a lift, but want to get a set of the “quickjacks” before I attempt the install. Yes, another item to wait on...

Now I am thinking that I need the 2" I plan on installing a procharger in the near future. Got to think about that for a min.

[blazzin1]

Originally Posted by Tazz3069

Now I am thinking that I need the 2" I plan on installing a procharger in the near future. Got to think about that for a min.

I want to install a ProCharger also, but like I said, it’ll be a long while before that happens. The Wife says the car must be paid off completely before even contemplating dropping that kind of money on an aftermarket mod!!! But yes, the standing theory is that if you plan on running any kind of Forced Induction, then you should get the 2.0” headers, if staying N/A, then the 1-7/8” are recommended. I just received the tracking last night for my new complete exhaust system from SW, should arrive on Friday!!!

[Tazz3069]

Originally Posted by blazzin1

I want to install a ProCharger also, but like I said, it’ll be a long while before that happens. The Wife says the car must be paid off completely before even contemplating dropping that kind of money on an aftermarket mod!!! But yes, the standing theory is that if you plan on running any kind of Forced Induction, then you should get the 2.0” headers, if staying N/A, then the 1-7/8” are recommended. I just received the tracking last night for my new complete exhaust system from SW, should arrive on Friday!!!

I have the cat back system from them. Love the sound. Install was very easy. Took about 2 hours. My biddy had a lift that I used. Made the install a breeze.

Thanks for the onfo. I will be ordering the 2" headers.

[blazzin1]

Originally Posted by Tazz3069

I have the cat back system from them. Love the sound. Install was very easy. Took about 2 hours. My biddy had a lift that I used. Made the install a breeze.

Thanks for the onfo. I will be ordering the 2" headers.

FYI...SW has an unadvertised header kit that will convert your “factory connect” cat-back to a “performance-connect” model for headers. The part number is CA16HCATSW. That’s for 2.0” headers with High-Flow Cats. You’d have to contact them for the correct part number if you did not want the cats.