Project Cleaning the Clutter in Our Engine Bay

[NC-V]

Hey Nathan are you clearing all these parts that you are polishing? I would hate for you to do all this and have it all oxidize on you shortly down the road!

[572HP]

NC-V, I took my parts to a metal polishing company in expectations for them to do a brushed finish, and clear over everything. He also restores cars, so I trust what he tells me. He said that any of the clears will quickly yellow, and it will look like crap. He said unless you live in a salty environment, a polished or brushed finish will look good for 4+ years. Nathan could also once a year quickly go over the parts again with a scotch-brite pad to get the finish right back.

[NC-V]

Most rattle can clears will yellow and look like poop, there are a few high end can clears, but they are quite expensive. As far as how long the polished pieces will last that will depend on climate/weather and cleanliness. If they will see water/moisture regularly then it will significantly speed up the process. Also some cleaners will "stain" a polished surface (aluminum). It can be kept up with but will take normal scrubbing and re-polishing.

[572HP]

Can you share with us which can clears are proven to not yellow under the hood? I'd like this for future projects.

[bmbbl be]

might be better off with a clear anadized finish..that will last without yellowing

[Moreno1]

Originally Posted by bmbbl be

might be better off with a clear anadized finish..that will last without yellowing

That was my first thought but i learned the hard way the results weren't good. The challenge is that because the pieces are cast vs billet, the end results is a dull flat look. I'll post a pic of a piece I have when I get home. You'll see what I mean.

[Synner]

I've been researching that quite a bit as well. So far the best 2 options I've seen from restoration websites are these:
http://www.caswellplating.com/buffin...-40-sq-ft.html
http://www.everbritecoatings.com/index.html

The only issue noted is that they will amplify imperfections so you'll need to spend extra time prepping what you treat. It's almost like a chemical sealant for paint but should last a couple years depending on how much you drive and exposure to water/dirt/washes/etc.

So redoing the treatment every 2-3 years is way better than buffing once a month. I move in a month and then once I get settled the throttle body and a few others pieces will be getting fully polished and one of these two will be tested.

If people need a buffing how-to I can do that as well but don't plan on doing that other than a few before/after pics unless enough people request it. This was last months work but is untreated for now:

[NC-V]

Originally Posted by 572HP

Can you share with us which can clears are proven to not yellow under the hood? I'd like this for future projects.

no... I'm just going to keep it to myself lol sorry still at work, I'll try and get a pic and post up once I get home with more info.

[NC-V]

As far as sealers go, we use a product called ZOOP seal. It is a product much like the ones Synner posted. It will protect the polished surface from oxidation for MUCH longer than just leaving it exposed to the elements. Also it will not inhibit the luster or shine of the polished piece. This is temporary and will need to be re-applied. The more elements the polished piece is exposed to, the more often it will need to be applied. Think of it like a wax on a car finish. This is what we use at our restoration shop.

For more permanent protection we use Eastwood's Diamond clear, bare metal clear. We have had excellent results with this spray can. Once polished the piece needs to be cleaned to get any waxes/oil/polish residue off. Then simply spray it, carefully to not get runs and such. Be sure to spray it within the temperature range recommended on the can. We've used this many times on pieces that are hard to get to to re-polish or seal. It holds up great, you can wet sand and buff it to get it to shine more, and it saves you from having to re-apply sealer. We have yet to see it yellow on anything we have used it on and it is good to 300*F. Being a paint, it does "build" and may show a slight distortion real close up if laid on heavy, but from more than 2ft away you can't tell a difference. I would highly recommend this for the A/C lines and other pieces that would be a bear to re-apply sealer to.

Also for reference: If you have any anodized AL fittings that are an unfitting color (blue or red) and you want to polish them, the anodizing can be easily stripped off with some Drain cleaner. Just get a plastic bucket, put some powdered drain cleaner in with some water, mix it up and throw your fittings or whatever in there for about 10 minutes. Then pull them out and rinse them off! Some things may need to soak a little longer than others or need some light scrubbing, but most will rinse right off. After thoroughly rinsed and dried, polish away! Just be careful and safe because it is very caustic, remove the pieces once you can easily rinse or wipe the anodizing off (it will usually turn black or dark).


Disclaimer: These are just my observations and recommendations based off of my experience. I can not be held responsible, especially if you do something wrong, melt your hand in the drain cleaner, or can't spray paint properly!

[Synner]

Zoop seal went out of business or was sold a few months back. The Shine Seal that Caswell carries is the replacement. Supposedly the owner came up with a new formulation that was half the price of Zoop and I don't know if someone bought them out or they decided to change the name but Shine Seal is the new zoop.

[NC-V]

Oh, well then that is what we USED lol. We still have quite a bit lying around and haven't ordered any recently (obviously). Shine Seal it is then, hopefully it is just as good. Thanks for that info Synner!

[Synner]

Supposedly its just as good but a cheaper chemical formulation. I guess I'll decide for myself next month. Granted I never used zoop so I have no basis for comparison but if it lasts more than a year I'll be very happy. Polishing sucks; I'd rather be melting the rear tires.

[Moreno1]

Originally Posted by NC-V

As far as sealers go, we use a product called ZOOP seal. It is a product much like the ones Synner posted. It will protect the polished surface from oxidation for MUCH longer than just leaving it exposed to the elements. Also it will not inhibit the luster or shine of the polished piece. This is temporary and will need to be re-applied. The more elements the polished piece is exposed to, the more often it will need to be applied. Think of it like a wax on a car finish. This is what we use at our restoration shop.

For more permanent protection we use Eastwood's Diamond clear, bare metal clear. We have had excellent results with this spray can. Once polished the piece needs to be cleaned to get any waxes/oil/polish residue off. Then simply spray it, carefully to not get runs and such. Be sure to spray it within the temperature range recommended on the can. We've used this many times on pieces that are hard to get to to re-polish or seal. It holds up great, you can wet sand and buff it to get it to shine more, and it saves you from having to re-apply sealer. We have yet to see it yellow on anything we have used it on and it is good to 300*F. Being a paint, it does "build" and may show a slight distortion real close up if laid on heavy, but from more than 2ft away you can't tell a difference. I would highly recommend this for the A/C lines and other pieces that would be a bear to re-apply sealer to.

Also for reference: If you have any anodized AL fittings that are an unfitting color (blue or red) and you want to polish them, the anodizing can be easily stripped off with some Drain cleaner. Just get a plastic bucket, put some powdered drain cleaner in with some water, mix it up and throw your fittings or whatever in there for about 10 minutes. Then pull them out and rinse them off! Some things may need to soak a little longer than others or need some light scrubbing, but most will rinse right off. After thoroughly rinsed and dried, polish away! Just be careful and safe because it is very caustic, remove the pieces once you can easily rinse or wipe the anodizing off (it will usually turn black or dark).
Attachment 344688

Disclaimer: These are just my observations and recommendations based off of my experience. I can not be held responsible, especially if you do something wrong, melt your hand in the drain cleaner, or can't spray paint properly!

Originally Posted by Synner

Supposedly its just as good but a cheaper chemical formulation. I guess I'll decide for myself next month. Granted I never used zoop so I have no basis for comparison but if it lasts more than a year I'll be very happy. Polishing sucks; I'd rather be melting the rear tires.

Thanks guys for the info! That's some good info Kyle I'm going to use stuff you recommend but if my hands fall off..... I wont be able to finish my project. I think I'm going to recruit one of my brothers for the job :emoticon7:

[Moreno1]

Mike just e-mailed me this pic. Can't wait to get it and start putting her back together.