Big HP manual cars... step inside....

[SSE 4 2SS]

Originally Posted by Driveshaftshop

I'm subscribing to this, its interesting

Frank,

Did you see my note in the other thread about hacking up your driveshaft...

This one has a u-joint output piece... Once the trans is mounted, we measure center to center and have to cut the shaft to length, and then have the appropriate yoke welded on and re-balanced...

In the interest of saving time, we are considering using the shop in San Antonio that does my builders work... Thrash Driveshafts...

We can measure it, drop the shaft off and have it back the next day... They also do high speed balancing... though I don't know if they do the quality of work you guys do....

If you would rather I send you the shaft... we could pre-ship it, along with my old take-off axles, and then call you with the measurements and let you guys do the work and then send it back... Let me know...

Originally Posted by andredmg

Subscribed!!! Way to stick with the manual RobertI,ve been watching your build thread for a while and I still plan on using your builder for my mods when I finally recieve everything, he sounds like an awesome dude and knows what he is doing.

you know it brother... I'm a fan of the manual trans, always have been, always will be...

Originally Posted by calbert1999

Any reason why you didn't go the route of having the TR6060 rebuilt to the max? That was the route I was going in eventually.

The company that builds these has done the work based on the T56 for several years and already have it engineered to a T...

Personally, I'm comfortable with a proven design since I am a guinea pig for this trans in the 5th Gen...

Everybody... Remember, This is a pricey option but if it works, it's worth every penny in my mind...

[SSE 4 2SS]

Originally Posted by mikepage0007

i did like the manual, but was to inconsistant on launching and car was not liking slow traffic with the cam...after the slave cylinder blew and left me stranded on the side of road , and only way to repair it was remove the tranny, that was the clincher...good luck with the stick, but imo the auto is way more constant and user friendly in 1000 hp car, and not likely leave you at the tree with a blown slave/clutch or tailshaft..getting fixed or towed home from a 500mile trip..imo

Mike,

I hear you and respect your input... Brandi was on the trailer after being stranded in the middle of nowhere West Texas on the way to the Fest... 500 miles on the trailer after limping along for well over 200 to our overnight stop...

I've had lots of people tell me I should bite the bullet and go auto... but I'm kinda hard headed... and if I can figure out a viable option for others, then so be it... some may not want to pony up the cash, others may not want to hack up the inside of their car... But I really want to make this work...

As for broken shafts... The factory trans is rated for something on the order of 480 HP... IIRC... this one is rated for 1200 HP and 1K ft/lbs...

The shafts (all of them) are 9310 material as are all the gears... Everything is micropolished and the gears have a non standard cut, making them stronger... They are possibly a little bit louder than stock.. but that remains to be seen...

[calbert1999]

Originally Posted by mikepage0007

i did like the manual, but was to inconsistant on launching and car was not liking slow traffic with the cam...after the slave cylinder blew and left me stranded on the side of road , and only way to repair it was remove the tranny, that was the clincher...good luck with the stick, but imo the auto is way more constant and user friendly in 1000 hp car, and not likely leave you at the tree with a blown slave/clutch or tailshaft..getting fixed or towed home from a 500mile trip..imo

Originally Posted by SSE 4 2SS

Mike,

I hear you and respect your input... Brandi was on the trailer after being stranded in the middle of nowhere West Texas on the way to the Fest... 500 miles on the trailer after limping along for well over 200 to our overnight stop...

I've had lots of people tell me I should bite the bullet and go auto... but I'm kinda hard headed... and if I can figure out a viable option for others, then so be it... some may not want to pony up the cash, others may not want to hack up the inside of their car... But I really want to make this work...

Same happened to me. I was lucky though the slave busted when we were doing road tuning after installing the new engine.
In my case I think it may be due to the slave seizing up after sitting around so long after removing the old engine, waiting for the new one to arrive.

The clutch I have was specifically designed to work with the stock slave, unlike a lot of other clutches floating around, and vendors don't tell you to buy a different slave or spacers. A good example is the ZR1 clutch, if you put that on a vehicle with stock slave, it's going to break eventually.
A ZR1 clutch is made for a ZR1, a ZR1 has a ZR1 slave. I've noticed also Mcleod sells spacers and slave, which tends me to believe you have to purchase that to work correctly with the Mcleod.

The TR6060 is much stronger than stock A6, and with hardened internals it should hold up quite well to 1000rwhp. the thing is will the upgrades resolve the sticking / grinding shifts? Based on what I'm reading in the thread that issue is caused from the shifter component being external to the TR6060 and movement of the shifter assembly.

[mikepage0007]

i think my pronlem is , i feel gun shy at the track and the driveability of stoplight and slow traffic {cam}...i know of at least 4 people with blown slaves and that is a pain to repair...i know my twin disc is up to the task, also know 2 people who have broke there tailshafts...that has not happened in awhile and i believe gm took car of the tailshaft problem..so i do have the 4l80 going in when we get to that point..i believe the tranny is a solid tranny, but the weaklink is the slave cylinder and the drivabilty when getting into the high hp range..i will def miss shifting but not miss the 3mph lunges going thru parking lots and traffic..lol

[SSE 4 2SS]

Originally Posted by calbert1999

The TR6060 is much stronger than stock A6, and with hardened internals it should hold up quite well to 1000rwhp. the thing is will the upgrades resolve the sticking / grinding shifts? Based on what I'm reading in the thread that issue is caused from the shifter component being external to the TR6060 and movement of the shifter assembly.

That's our conclusion.... So, I'm hoping this fix's my problem..

Originally Posted by mikepage0007

i think my pronlem is , i feel gun shy at the track and the driveability of stoplight and slow traffic {cam}...i know of at least 4 people with blown slaves and that is a pain to repair...i know my twin disc is up to the task, also know 2 people who have broke there tailshafts...that has not happened in awhile and i believe gm took car of the tailshaft problem..so i do have the 4l80 going in when we get to that point..i believe the tranny is a solid tranny, but the weaklink is the slave cylinder and the drivabilty when getting into the high hp range..i will def miss shifting but not miss the 3mph lunges going thru parking lots and traffic..lol

A big lumpy cam can make driving less than fun...

[mikepage0007]

not actually so sure that its not the injectors that is the culprit,,,when you start pushing the 650-1000lb injectors, they spray more fuel and less frequent causing it to almost try to load the engine at low rpm...instead of a constant low flow of fuel..its a trade off if you need the tuel for 1k hp..

[Whipped416]

a good tuner can make a big nasty cam with huge injectors on a 1000 rwhp car run like stock for the most part!

[SSE 4 2SS]

Originally Posted by Whipped416

a good tuner can make a big nasty cam with huge injectors on a 1000 rwhp car run like stock for the most part!

For the most part yes, but if you have a pretty narrow LSA, it's a fight...

My car for example has a cam with a 121 LSA and there is almost no lope what-so-ever...

[calbert1999]

Ha.... my LSA is about 114, she's pretty tough to drive in stop / go traffic, but nasty as hell on the open road.

[SSE 4 2SS]

I bet... The nice thing about my cam is it is almost stock like driving it at slow speeds, and it like yours is nasty at wide open throttle... but then the fateful.... grindddd of trying to get the next gear....

That's what I'm trying to fix here... We'll see..

[doomsdayjesus081]

PM me the manufacturer please. Good Luck with it, I hope it works out for you.

[SSE 4 2SS]

Dooms,

PM sent

[SSE 4 2SS]

Just had a great phone conversation with the guy that built my transmission...
Contrary to my previous statement, this is a TR6060 Trans...

It was confirmed that with the extended tail shaft housing, all of the shafts are 9310 material, and sixth gear is the only one that isn't 9310... 1st through 5th are 9310 gears...

The Gearing is a little different than stock...

1st Gear 2.66
2nd Gear 1.78
3rd Gear 1.30
4th Gear 1.0
5th Gear .84
6th Gear .63

Corrected Gear ratios


The ratios below are the Factory gears...

1st: 3.01
2nd: 2.07
3rd: 1.43
4th: 1.00
5th: 0.84
6th: 0.57

[calbert1999]

So, it's a rebuilt TR6060? Do you still have to make adjustments to the internal vehicle for it to fit correctly, or is a different housing? Why would a TR6060 with hardened internals need the internal vehicle to be adjusted to fit the shifter?