Pfadt spring install how to with pics

[Aaron Pfadt]

Originally Posted by DocHolliday

Aaron-

I have your springs and sways in the boxes waiting to be installed. Why don't you put out a how-to manual for the springs along with COLOR pictures. You wouldn't have to mass produce it, it could be a PDF file downloadable for your customers?

That is a good idea. Maybe we'll build on what Frank started and post it on our website for reference.

-Aaron

[jeffny09]

Originally Posted by Aaron Pfadt

That is a good idea. Maybe we'll build on what Frank started and post it on our website for reference.

-Aaron

i also have the springs and sways waiting too be installed-when do u think the how to file wiollo be rready?

[DocHolliday]

Originally Posted by Aaron Pfadt

That is a good idea. Maybe we'll build on what Frank started and post it on our website for reference.

-Aaron

It sure would be appreciated. When I bought the springs I was told installation instructions would come with them, that was not the case. I'd love to do the job myself and it looks like so long as there is a details tools list and some color pics with the instructions it would be an easy task. I wouls suggest one thing if you add to Franks presentation; please make use of red arrows to point out the different components being talked about in each step. For the ones in the known this isn't such a big deal, but when I read sometime like "remove speed sensor" I'd like a red arrow pointing to said sensor as I have no idea what that is.

Just some thoughts...

[Jeanius]

Originally Posted by DocHolliday

It sure would be appreciated. When I bought the springs I was told installation instructions would come with them, that was not the case. I'd love to do the job myself and it looks like so long as there is a details tools list and some color pics with the instructions it would be an easy task. I wouls suggest one thing if you add to Franks presentation; please make use of red arrows to point out the different components being talked about in each step. For the ones in the known this isn't such a big deal, but when I read sometime like "remove speed sensor" I'd like a red arrow pointing to said sensor as I have no idea what that is.

Just some thoughts...

[vsgls1]

I just finished putting in my springs and swaybars. Thanks, this write-up is very helpful. Here is how I was able to reinstall the front struts with little hassle. I put the strut into the strut tower and put the plate on followed by the nut, then tightened it hand tight. This held the strut in the wheel well so I could have two hands to mate the strut to the knuckle.

For anyone doing the swaybars, you can get the front factory bar out in less than 5 minutes from the passenger side while doing springs. Remove the 4 13mm nuts from the bushings. Take a jack and place it under the passenger side rotor assemble and move it up some. This is even easier when the passenger strut is out. This will give enough clearance to wiggle the swaybar out from the passenger side.

Originally Posted by FrankT

Now, reinstall the strut assembly into the vehicle. Install the strut bolts, but don't tighten completely until you align the strut with the alignment mark previously made. Install the front suspension mounting plate and strut nut. Tighten the front strut bolts and nuts to 59 lb ft plus an additional 180 degrees. I used new bolts and nuts. Tighten the top nut to 52 lb ft. I needed a wrench like the one in the picture to be able to tighten the nut. Screw on the dust cover, and reinstall the wheel speed sensor cable into its bracket, front brake hose and stabilizer shaft link.

[obe1]

Thanks Frank; my friend and I just used you instructions to install Pfadt's lowering springs and sway bars. Hardest part of the whole job was wrestling out the stock front sway bar. The new Pfadt front bar went in with no problem. Off to the alignment shop

Even without the alignment done yet, car is tracking true and handles 100% better and the wheel gap look much better than stock. No side affects either with ride quality! As Aaron states, this is the way they should have come from the factory!!!

[Popy's VT]

Yeah, that sway had me swearing but all in all a very straight forward install and it sure looks sweet now! Perfect height. Glad to hear the positive report on the ride and handling improvement. You'll have to chase me over the Laguna's in a couple weeks and we'll really test it out

[chevy 3]

I just orderd the lowering springs and can't wait too try this on my car.

[5GenCamaroSS]

I too just ordered them. Im wanting to install them myself, but I need to go by a spring compressor and I dont have a work bench. I hope thats not a problem. I always read instructions before I get a product and I swear I make it in my head seem so much harder than it is. Im a visual person, so i hope when I get my springs and look at this install DIY, I can be like "OHHHH!!!" lol

[Danny5]

I wanted to update this DIY with some helpful advice.

1) Spring compressor not needed if you have an impact wrench! There is very LITTLE preload on the springs, and they only jumped an inch when you take the top nut off. If you are using hand tools, then get a compressor. Air tools, don't bother.

2) The rear arm knuckle bolts were 19mm on my car, not the 24mm stated.

3) It took me a couple hours to figure out how to align the rear suspension with all the parts back in place. A nice 2" wide, 16-20" long prybar is your friend! I was at my wits end when I shoved my pry bar into the knuckle area and aligned the bolt hole with zero effort, and in 10 seconds. I spent almost 90 minutes by hand, and could not line anything up.

4) I used 1/4" air ratchet on the sway bar links. Using a 7mm on the front, and a t30 in the rear, you can tighten the bolt to back off the nut, and loosen the bolt to crank the nut on. Or spend 30 minutes by hand like I did at first :( Do NOT do this with the rear springs in place, or your risk capturing the air tool in the assembly. Lesson learned!

[OmniCamaro]

Danny5 is correct on the spring tension. Using an impact gun I spun the top nut off the front and the parts popped off only 2-4 inches, the rears didn't move at all. I did this in the grass with the bottom of the strut butted up against a wall and all body parts behind the business end of the spring tension, just in case. No issues at all.

A question: How the hell can you torque that top nut holding the spring on the strut?! Unless there's a box end torque wrench I don't see it happening. I got it on there good with my impact gun but I'd hate to have it too tight or not tight enough. Has anyone taken a measurement on how far the shaft should be above that nut (post drop spring install)? That would be an awesome bit of info to have in this thread. **update, experience, and a bit of common sense: the first nut that holds the spring in place only goes so far on the shaft. Good & tight+ is plenty for that first nut. Same with the rears.


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[Micky]

Good day.
I am looking to where I can buy these strut top plates online here in NY and get them in one day.