HVAC problems - blend door?

[Scotty D]

I’m thinking this is happening to my car .. But i did installed HUD . Thought it went good until I tried my ac yesterday & my heat today. I don’t think you have to remove the windshield .. I maybe wrong

[sixty9fordkiller]

There is a thick metal bar thats behind the passenger side of the dash. there are some bolts that are behind that bar that need to come out and in order for that to happen, the windshield needs to come off

a very brave soul posted a video of him doing the job but opted to cut some bolts in order to avoid the high cost of taking it to the dealer. look it up

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

[Scotty D]

Ahhh ok ok
I’m hoping mine is something I did and can fix easily
I don’t mind removing the dash again
I did high end car audio for 18 years so ! It don’t bother me if I need to

[blumaro]

I managed to take some pics of the quality windshield installation. I met with the glass company on Friday and realized where this may be going when the manager stated that it looks like someone leaned on the glass before the adhesive cured causing the glass to move. Sounds like some BS to me. For your viewing displeasure:


Driver's side, touching the A-pillar. Passenger side large gap. And passenger side damaged roof ditch molding. Also note the gap between the top of the windshield and the roof.


-Ray

[Deathstroke0571]

i dropped mine off at the dealership today. I will update you when i have news

[BIGSWOLE]

Can anyone tell me the symptoms of the door going out? My air only blows warm air. Compressor is working, tested the coil and voltage. It’s holding around 90psi on both the high and low sides. If anyone has a clue on which direction I should go it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance

[Deathstroke0571]

Originally Posted by BIGSWOLE

Can anyone tell me the symptoms of the door going out? My air only blows warm air. Compressor is working, tested the coil and voltage. It’s holding around 90psi on both the high and low sides. If anyone has a clue on which direction I should go it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance

From what I understand, it’s when one side blows warm, and the other blows cold. If yours only blows warm but thr compressor works and the blower works, then you most likely have a refrigerant leak.

[blumaro]

Originally Posted by BIGSWOLE

Can anyone tell me the symptoms of the door going out? My air only blows warm air. Compressor is working, tested the coil and voltage. It’s holding around 90psi on both the high and low sides. If anyone has a clue on which direction I should go it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance

In my case the heat became cool and the AC became warm. The air blend door broke away from the actuator and became frozen somewhere in the middle of it's range of operation. It did not matter which way I turned the temperature knob since the door was no longer coupled to the actuator.

-Ray

[Deathstroke0571]

Originally Posted by blumaro

In my case the heat became cool and the AC became warm. The air blend door broke away from the actuator and became frozen somewhere in the middle of it's range of operation. It did not matter which way I turned the temperature knob since the door was no longer coupled to the actuator.

-Ray

So it turns on I had an evaporator leak. The dash was removed and so was the windshield. Already on my third windshield and the car isnt even 3 years old yet.

[blumaro]

Originally Posted by Deathstroke0571

So it turns on I had an evaporator leak. The dash was removed and so was the windshield. Already on my third windshield and the car isnt even 3 years old yet.

Wow, evaporator leak? How does that even happen? I would understand a condenser leak as it could be damaged by road debris. It has to be some sort of manufacturing defect. When I purchased my car in 2012 there was talk about heater cores failing. I guess we can add the heater blend door and evaporator to the list of failures. WTF GM? Really? My 1977 Trans Am still has the original heater core, evaporator, and blend door.


-Ray

[Deathstroke0571]

Originally Posted by blumaro

Wow, evaporator leak? How does that even happen? I would understand a condenser leak as it could be damaged by road debris. It has to be some sort of manufacturing defect. When I purchased my car in 2012 there was talk about heater cores failing. I guess we can add the heater blend door and evaporator to the list of failures. WTF GM? Really? My 1977 Trans Am still has the original heater core, evaporator, and blend door.


-Ray

tell me about. The car isnt even 3 years old and i only have 23k miles. Maybe i am being dramatic but i feel as if it will never be the same again. I mean they removed the steering wheel, the entire dashboard etc. Who knows what kind of collateral damage I will have. I am suppose to have it back Friday so I will update.


If they butcher the winshield install like they did yours, I am going to go postal!

[BIGSWOLE]

Originally Posted by Deathstroke0571

From what I understand, it’s when one side blows warm, and the other blows cold. If yours only blows warm but thr compressor works and the blower works, then you most likely have a refrigerant leak.

Don’t think I have a leak, with gauges hooked up , the pressure never dropped on either side. At first my pressure switch wasn’t plugged in. Once I figured that out the compressor was kicking on and off like it’s supposed to. If the pressure switch was bad the compressor wouldn’t kick on and off, correct?

[Bretts]

dang mine is acting similar tomorrow will see if it gets hot on the hot setting 2015 ss 20,000 miles on her

[Bretts]

it is a different issue , clutch not engaging ever since my cam swap anyone know the pressure switch location? could be loose