I messed up#!$!

[flyinlow89]

I can't imagine the pad/polish/polisher combo had anything to do with it. All safe and idiot proof IF all clean and good working order. Must've been a dirty pad.

[Tim Adams]

Originally Posted by flyinlow89

I can't imagine the pad/polish/polisher combo had anything to do with it. All safe and idiot proof IF all clean and good working order. Must've been a dirty pad.

It was a brand new pad, I just bought all this stuff this week. I really think I was letting it heat up and dry out. I should sneak over and try it on the neighbors beater next time!!

[JTruck]

Originally Posted by Tim Adams

I think you guys nailed it. I had a lot of dust so it's pretty obvious the pad was drying out. So start over with the orange pad and 101, or use the 105 with the orange pad, or go to the white pad with the 205, keep it clean and make sure I keep spraying the pad with detail spray as I go.

Wish I had a POS to experiment on, unfortunately I don't.

As far as containments, the paint is clean other than my wax pad screw up. The car is never outside for more than a few hours at a time and sits in the garage.

Buy a random hood from a salvage yard.

[bleavens1962]

JTruck going "old school".

[nyrfan]

Originally Posted by Tim Adams

It was a brand new pad, I just bought all this stuff this week. I really think I was letting it heat up and dry out. I should sneak over and try it on the neighbors beater next time!!

While possible it's very hard to get a pad on a PC to heat up enough to cause damage.

Felix- speeding in my SS/RS

[Tim Adams]

Originally Posted by JTruck

Buy a random hood from a salvage yard.

Willing to learn, but I am not going that far. I can barely get the Cruze and Camaro in the garage now. I don't need random body parts.

[JTruck]

Originally Posted by Tim Adams

Willing to learn, but I am not going that far. I can barely get the Cruze and Camaro in the garage now. I don't need random body parts.

Just a suggestion.

[Tim Adams]

Originally Posted by JTruck

Just a suggestion.

I know. I wish I still had my 2010 Cobalt, would have been a good trial subject.

[trm2]

You could always rent a car to practice on. Sure, they will look at you funny when you return it looking better than when you picked it up, but you get to practice!

[ihaveacamaro]

Originally Posted by Tim Adams

I think you guys nailed it. I had a lot of dust so it's pretty obvious the pad was drying out. So start over with the orange pad and 101, or use the 105 with the orange pad, or go to the white pad with the 205, keep it clean and make sure I keep spraying the pad with detail spray as I go.

Whatever you do, first do a test spot and get that corrected to a level where you are satisfied. Then do the rest of the car the exact same way.

In the future, always always always do a test spot.

Hope it works out for you, GL

[Junkman2008]

Originally Posted by Stay Fresh Car Care

You could be over heating the pad causing polish to dry and harden! This will deff cause problems.

Not remotely possible with the PC. The more pressure you apply, the less work it does. It takes the rotation of a rotary to create heat. The PC can't burn a baby's butt.

Originally Posted by Tim Adams

I think you guys nailed it. I had a lot of dust so it's pretty obvious the pad was drying out.

Dust is more than just a sign of a compound drying out, it's also a major sign of using TOO MUCH polish and/or over-working the polish. As I say in my videos, over-working a compound or polish creates damage. Under-working either just causes a waste of product.

Originally Posted by Tim Adams

So start over with the orange pad and 101...

Why in the world are you using M101? The damage in your paint is not remotely bad enough for you to be using M101!

Originally Posted by Tim Adams

... or use the 105 with the orange pad...

If anything, this is where you SHOULD have started. It's not a case of OR, it's a case of YOU SHOULD HAVE.

Originally Posted by Tim Adams

... or go to the white pad with the 205...

You ain't gonna start with M205 now after the damage you've created with M101. Had you started with M205, you may have had one shiny car by now.

Originally Posted by Tim Adams

...keep it clean and make sure I keep spraying the pad with detail spray as I go.

Too much detail spray is going to dilute the compound and polish, thus making them less effective. This is why you work indoors, on a COOL surface. It eliminates the problem with the compound drying out and creating a dusting mess.

Originally Posted by ihaveacamaro

Whatever you do, first do a test spot and get that corrected to a level where you are satisfied. Then do the rest of the car the exact same way.

Which is what I stress over and over in my paint correction videos.

This what happens when people watch my videos ONCE and then expect to get the same results that I get. There is no way that as a novice, you can watch a 2-hour video once and then have a clue as to what you are doing. You have to watch a video that long MULTIPLE times and take notes. All of the issues that you are experiencing are issues that I explain how to avoid.

Any novice reading this thread should learn from what is happening here. This is why my videos are so long. I cover ALL the bases and make it so that if you follow my instructions TO THE LETTER, you will see success.

[Junkman2008]

Originally Posted by Stay Fresh Car Care

First time I think ill disagree with ya AJ.

I said polish will heat up and bead causing damage. You can cause heat on foam pads with a DA. When polish heats up on the pad, it will cause it to bead and form small microscopic rocks in the foam pad, swirling the paint.

Especially using a compound!
SFCC

Everything you posted right there is true. We see eye to eye on that. Here's the problem with what you posted. You can't significantly heat up anything with a PC. I have worked shows in blazing hot, direct sunlight in places like Arizona and the pad on the PC never got significantly hot enough to do anything remotely dangerous. The compound started dusting because the surface of the car was so hot that it began to dry out the compound very quickly. The PC is NOT a machine that will heat up a pad like that. If it was, it wouldn't take forever and a day to fix any major damage. If a person is working in the CORRECT environment and creating dust with the PC, HEAT is not the issue. The issue is that their pad is clogged with too much compound or they are over-working the compound.

Heat why a rotary is SO effective. The pad gets so hot that it can practically MELT the clear coat off of the car, and it can do it FAST. That's major heat. If you make the mistake of moving the polisher slow enough at the wrong RPM's, smoke will actually roll off the pad.

If ANYONE can do that with a PC, I will personally fly to their location and fix their entire paint job for FREE. Take that to the bank.

[Junkman2008]

By the way, since SO MANY people don't understand this, let me clarify something. The PC IS NOT a DA. DA stands for "dual-action", and a dual-action polisher is always rated in RPM's and OPM's (that's TWO actions). The Flex 3401VRG is a DA. If you check its specs, you will see BOTH ratings. The PC-7424XP is an ORBITAL polisher. It is ONLY rated in OPM's. That's ONE action, NOT two. The rotation that a PC does is an off throw of the orbital action because the PC has a free-floating spindle assembly. It does NOT have a built in rotation that is powered in ANY way and thus, has no RPM rating whatsoever.

A lot of people don't understand this and thus, incorrectly refer to the PC as a DA. It is NOT. That lack of forced-rotation is why you are never going to heat up anything with a PC. That's what makes it so SAFE for a novice to use.

[Junkman2008]

I may have posted again just before you did. Check out both of my entries. I am all for a trip to the sunshine state. You know how to find me.