Vararam Rubber Seal - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

Kid · 09-15-2018, 11:55 AM

I'm on my second Vararam intake. The first was replaced with a "new" design under warranty, after the rubber seal fell off. Now my replacement is doing the same after about 4 years.

Has anyone tried using the old school foam that was used in many cowl and ram air hoods from the 60's and 70's? I'm thinking it may seal better, but not sure it will hold up any better.

spyderbuddy · 09-15-2018, 12:26 PM

I jus used super glue and put it back on

Kid · 09-15-2018, 12:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by spyderbuddy

I jus used super glue and put it back on

Something like Gorilla glue gel? How long has it held up, so far?

spyderbuddy · 09-15-2018, 12:53 PM

Pretty good, the first seal broke in less than a year, and they replaced it (the whole unit). the second lasted Four years, then when the seal came loose i just got some Super Glue/Gorilla Glue and just put it back on. I've had the Vararam Kit since they first came out. And i think its the best kit you can get for the LLT. My IAT's are maybe 2 degrees above ambient temps.

The problem with Foam, is maybe it could be blown out from sealing against the hood sense the air is being forced into the air box, Vararam is Forced air or Ram Air.

Kid · 09-19-2018, 08:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by spyderbuddy

Pretty good, the first seal broke in less than a year, and they replaced it (the whole unit). the second lasted Four years, then when the seal came loose i just got some Super Glue/Gorilla Glue and just put it back on. I've had the Vararam Kit since they first came out. And i think its the best kit you can get for the LLT. My IAT's are maybe 2 degrees above ambient temps.

Identical story here. I've never seen customer service as great as these guys. And, best intake for power and sound on the market, IMHO.

Quote:

Originally Posted by spyderbuddy

The problem with Foam, is maybe it could be blown out from sealing against the hood sense the air is being forced into the air box, Vararam is Forced air or Ram Air.

I know the ram air cars in the 70's used the foam with no issue, and some were running dual quads. Not sure if that helps or hurts the pressure, as they may have been able to pull the air in fast enough to put no pressure on the seal. I toss some Gorilla glue on it and see what happens.

InfernoMan2011 · 08-14-2019, 07:09 PM

I had this same issue and Vararam replaced the entire unit. On the new one, the same thing happened. This time I re-attached the rubber gasket to the housing with epoxy and I haven't had any issue since. I used clear epoxy, and for a couple of noticable areas, I just touched up the epoxy with a block magic marker.

09-15-2018, 11:55 AM	#1
Kid Drives: 2011 Camaro 2LT, 68 Camaro RS Join Date: May 2010 Location: Milford, CT Posts: 627 View My Garage	Vararam Rubber Seal I'm on my second Vararam intake. The first was replaced with a "new" design under warranty, after the rubber seal fell off. Now my replacement is doing the same after about 4 years. Has anyone tried using the old school foam that was used in many cowl and ram air hoods from the 60's and 70's? I'm thinking it may seal better, but not sure it will hold up any better. __________________ 2011 Black/Inferno 2LT. Inferno Brembos, MRT 2.0, Vararam, BBK LTs, RX Catch Can, VMAX ICE-olator, VMAX P/P Throttle Body, Monster clutch, MGW Shifter, OverKill Tuned.

09-15-2018, 12:26 PM	#2
spyderbuddy Drives: 2010 RS Inferno Orange Metallic Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Albany, Ga. Posts: 3,398 View My Garage	I jus used super glue and put it back on __________________ PCP Hideaway Headlight Covers, BBK Headers & High Flow Cats, ZL1 Add-ons Wicker Bill, TL1/ZL1 Hood Insert, Gen5 DIY Frameless Mirror, ABL Dash Lighting an My link Navigation, Blacked out Rear Bowtie, all Sylvania led Turn Signals, Ceramic Window Tint By Nicks, MBRP Exhaust tips, GEN5 DIY Virginia Legal DRL Harness, Painted Brake Calipers, Vittesse Throttle Controller, Heritage Grill, Diode Dynamics Led Lighting, Manual Shifter Boot, Paddle Shifters, CNC Throttle Body, Trifecta Tune, RX Catch Can & Breather, Trunk Black out and Side Grills, Chevorlet door Sills.

09-15-2018, 12:53 PM	#4
spyderbuddy Drives: 2010 RS Inferno Orange Metallic Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Albany, Ga. Posts: 3,398 View My Garage	Pretty good, the first seal broke in less than a year, and they replaced it (the whole unit). the second lasted Four years, then when the seal came loose i just got some Super Glue/Gorilla Glue and just put it back on. I've had the Vararam Kit since they first came out. And i think its the best kit you can get for the LLT. My IAT's are maybe 2 degrees above ambient temps. The problem with Foam, is maybe it could be blown out from sealing against the hood sense the air is being forced into the air box, Vararam is Forced air or Ram Air. __________________ PCP Hideaway Headlight Covers, BBK Headers & High Flow Cats, ZL1 Add-ons Wicker Bill, TL1/ZL1 Hood Insert, Gen5 DIY Frameless Mirror, ABL Dash Lighting an My link Navigation, Blacked out Rear Bowtie, all Sylvania led Turn Signals, Ceramic Window Tint By Nicks, MBRP Exhaust tips, GEN5 DIY Virginia Legal DRL Harness, Painted Brake Calipers, Vittesse Throttle Controller, Heritage Grill, Diode Dynamics Led Lighting, Manual Shifter Boot, Paddle Shifters, CNC Throttle Body, Trifecta Tune, RX Catch Can & Breather, Trunk Black out and Side Grills, Chevorlet door Sills.

08-14-2019, 07:09 PM	#6
InfernoMan2011 Drives: 2011 Inferno Orange 1LT Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Arkansas Posts: 199 View My Garage	Epoxy! I had this same issue and Vararam replaced the entire unit. On the new one, the same thing happened. This time I re-attached the rubber gasket to the housing with epoxy and I haven't had any issue since. I used clear epoxy, and for a couple of noticable areas, I just touched up the epoxy with a block magic marker.