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Old 07-22-2021, 04:52 AM   #15
AlanRubin
 
Drives: 2010 LS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aprojectile View Post
I should mention the reason I have been considering 1LE stuff is simply for ease of replacement parts as time goes on. I have no problem going with a full aftermarket or mixed oem and aftermarket setup. Overall though, I'm looking for better setup than stock to help improve handling for track days, while still being street friendly since I daily drive this car.
You can buy the MAG ride front and rear struts, and install two 12V varistors
or rheostats to dial in the voltage to stiffen or loosen the ride. Normally, the
car does the adjusting of the power to them based on settings, but you can
do it manually. Normally, the application of power is Pulse Width Management.
You can install PWM drivers that you can manually control as well.

They are like regular chocks except the fluid in them is filled with magnetorheological
fluid. each shock contains a piston with two electromagnetic coils and two
small fluid passages through the piston. The electromagnets are capable of
creating a variable magnetic field across the fluid passages.

When the magnets are off, the fluid travels through the passages freely;
when the magnets are activated, the iron particles in the fluid create a
fibrous structure through the passages in the same direction of the
magnetic field. The strength of the bonds between the magnetized iron
particles causes the viscosity of the fluid to increase, resulting in a stiffer
suspension. Altering the strength of the current results in an instantaneous
change in force of the piston.

So, dialing in your damping is relatively easy.
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Old 07-22-2021, 06:56 AM   #16
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Yeah but doesn’t the car need to have all the electronics an sensors for that??
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Old 07-23-2021, 03:03 AM   #17
AlanRubin
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by olblue75 View Post
Yeah but doesn’t the car need to have all the electronics an sensors for that??
YOU did not read a word of what I wrote...

I wrote:
You can buy the MAG ride front and rear struts, and install two 12V varistors
or rheostats to dial in the voltage to stiffen or loosen the ride.
Normally, the
car does the adjusting of the power to them
based on settings, but you can
do it manually.
Normally, the application of power is Pulse Width Management.
You can install PWM drivers that you can manually control as well.


AND, I wrote it, in AMERICAN ENGLISH, and you still missed the point...

Can't get anymore dumbed down than that either...
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Old 07-23-2021, 06:45 AM   #18
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Don’t have to be a ass about it!!!
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1LE Front sway bar, Splitter, shocks and struts, Z28 dual mode mufflers, Intake, UCA Bushings, and Toresen 3.91 Diff. 1 piece DSS Drive Shaft, ZL1/C7 Calipers, and 32mm JPSS Rear Bar. ASC race spec splitter and wicker. 6th Gen M017 Wheels. Stainless Works 1 7/8 LTs. DSE and PAFDT Suspension components.
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Old 07-23-2021, 12:11 PM   #19
AlanRubin
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by olblue75 View Post
Don’t have to be a ass about it!!!
I would RATHER be an ass, than someone who can't comprehend American
English. SO, while people may laugh, and talk about the ass, they will also
be talking about the guy who totally missed the point, and laugh just a little
harder... I know I am...
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Old 07-23-2021, 12:39 PM   #20
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Whatever!!!
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Old 07-23-2021, 01:42 PM   #21
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AlanRubin and olblue75, this post doesn't need any type of confrontation. Please be respectful.

AlanRubin, I will admit that your post is interesting and would be cool to do. But thats not something I am looking to do with my car. I'll rather stick with a more simple setup.
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Old 07-23-2021, 11:36 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aprojectile View Post
AlanRubin, I will admit that your post is interesting and would be cool to do. But thats not something I am looking to do with my car. I'll rather stick with a more simple setup.
The struts will have plugs on them, two terminals. You only need to get
the plugs for them, and wire them to the dials, from power from the battery.
Install a nice fuse block for it, I think it's around 20 amps per set. Then one wire
from each to ground. Using the variable resister DIAL, you can adjust how
much current is sent to the shocks to stiffen the ride.

AS I said, the car uses Pulse Width Management, so you can buy two
PWM drivers that are adjustable from 0 - 100% duty cycle, to adjust
the damping.
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Old 07-25-2021, 12:59 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by olblue75 View Post
You don’t really have a lot of bushing since most of them are a encapsulated monoball I’d do the V8 since you the V8 brakes all around an be done with it. I threw away a lot of my 2010 SS stuff in favor of 1LE parts an then shifted to DSE rear arms.
I have;
JPSS rear bar
PFADT subframe bushings
DSE toe an trailing arms still running the LCAs
1LE shocks
Z28 upper rear control arm bushings

Happen to have part numbers for z28 bushings and the DSE toe/trailing?


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Old 07-25-2021, 09:09 PM   #24
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Just goto Detroit Speeds site an look under rear suspension as far the rear bushings I’m still looking for them.


Here’s the PNs;

https://www.camaro5.com/forums/showt...t=Z28+bushings
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1LE Front sway bar, Splitter, shocks and struts, Z28 dual mode mufflers, Intake, UCA Bushings, and Toresen 3.91 Diff. 1 piece DSS Drive Shaft, ZL1/C7 Calipers, and 32mm JPSS Rear Bar. ASC race spec splitter and wicker. 6th Gen M017 Wheels. Stainless Works 1 7/8 LTs. DSE and PAFDT Suspension components.
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Old 07-27-2021, 06:05 AM   #25
AlanRubin
 
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If those are the bushings you are looking for, I have a ~10,000 mile set from an SS
car. They are in almost new condition, no tears, no dry rot, and they're not rusted.










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Old 07-27-2021, 06:44 AM   #26
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The Z28 bushings are solid an provide less movement.
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Orange Krush II
1LE Front sway bar, Splitter, shocks and struts, Z28 dual mode mufflers, Intake, UCA Bushings, and Toresen 3.91 Diff. 1 piece DSS Drive Shaft, ZL1/C7 Calipers, and 32mm JPSS Rear Bar. ASC race spec splitter and wicker. 6th Gen M017 Wheels. Stainless Works 1 7/8 LTs. DSE and PAFDT Suspension components.
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