01-09-2018, 11:09 AM | #1 |
Drives: o Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: under a rock
Posts: 220
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Advice about drive shafts
I'm looking for input on which drive shaft would be a good upgrade for the 2010 SS.
I like the idea of going with a one piece shaft. Thinking I can get more torque to the rear end. Eventually I hope to up grade the entire IRS, but for now I've got just enough money to up grade the main drive shaft. Any advice on like aluminum, or fiber? U-joints, or CV joints? Pros and cons? What are you guys running in your Camaros? Are you happy with it? |
01-09-2018, 11:14 AM | #2 |
Drives: 2010 CAMARO SS Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: ohio
Posts: 1,360
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I have the DSS aluminum 1 piece drive shaft,, it is good to 1,000 hp,,, currently I have 600 rwhp. the first thing I noticed is there is no lag in normal driving from a stop ,,, it is very smooth... I give it a 10 !!!
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01-09-2018, 12:40 PM | #3 |
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2010 1SS RS, LS3, SIM/Black, painted rally stripes, AAC sidemarkers, Sunroof, B.A. sound sys; 20x9.5 & 20x11 SV1-C5's; MGW short shifter; Hotchkis Track Pack; Corsa catback; Kooks 1 7/8"; ADM Street; Magnacharger TVS2300 - 548rwhp/512rwtq
1100- 2/18/09; 3800- 6/15/09 VIN#18308; Delivered 6/29/09!!!!! 2014 CTS-V Sedan, Black/Black, Auto, Recaros, Ultra-view, Red Brembos. Stock |
01-09-2018, 07:02 PM | #4 |
Drives: 2013 1ss Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: WI.
Posts: 520
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I have a 1 piece driveshaft also. The one thing that comes up with aftermarket parts like clutches and driveshafts is they usually eliminate the factory dampening making the drivetrain more susceptible to drivelash which can cause stabilitrack codes.
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01-09-2018, 07:22 PM | #5 |
Drives: 2010 SS 2SS M6 Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Smithsburg, Md.
Posts: 2,445
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more TQ with a drive shaft....how? what is the cars current and future intended usage? any mods?
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2010 SS 2SS M6 - Tune by RDP dynoSteve!(Woot) - Daily Driver - 150K! - All work by me...
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01-09-2018, 07:34 PM | #6 |
Fast Cars and Old Guitars
Drives: 2015 2SS RS (L99, baby!) Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: N. CA
Posts: 3,973
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I’m told by my customer in SoCal that by the time you make the aluminum adapters for the flex disks at the Trans and Diff (to accept 1350 series flange yokes) and build an aluminum 1350 series shaft with Neapco Gold u-joints, it actually weighs a little more than the stock steel shaft. But a beefy sumbitch. And is 1pc.
Carbon fiber is way cool but upwards of $1500 per copy. Both are good for pretty big HP.
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“I don’t want to belong to any club that would have me as a member.” - Groucho Marx
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01-09-2018, 09:50 PM | #7 |
Drives: 2011 convertible 2ss/rs Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Houston
Posts: 971
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Stock 2 piece does me fine in my 408 stroker maggie
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01-10-2018, 08:36 AM | #8 |
"Old School"
Drives: 2010 2SS L99 Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Sherrills Ford, NC
Posts: 1,295
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I think the axles are the weakest point, you would be better served in my opinion with stronger axles for your M6.
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01-10-2018, 10:44 AM | #9 |
Drives: 2013 Triple Black ZL1 Vert M6 ECF Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Trenton, Michigan
Posts: 7,047
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You could always call Vector Motorsports and talk to Sam.
I remember a few years ago she tried a few drive shafts in her 2010 when her horsepower started increasing. |
01-10-2018, 11:04 AM | #10 |
Fast Cars and Old Guitars
Drives: 2015 2SS RS (L99, baby!) Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: N. CA
Posts: 3,973
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We in the driveshaft world have always considered the driveline to be the ‘fuse’ that went before more expensive components. While from a purely economical standpoint that may be true, no one wants to grenade a driveline. There is usually collateral damage too.
But conversely, in something like a 1000 HP off road ‘Trophy Truck’, trannies and diffs are VERY expensive compared to most drivelines. They’d probably rather it go first.
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“I don’t want to belong to any club that would have me as a member.” - Groucho Marx
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01-10-2018, 11:04 AM | #11 |
Drives: 2011 convertible 2ss/rs Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Houston
Posts: 971
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A 2 piece will flex better especially when you dropped ur car suspension, and less vibration because of the coupler dampers, 1 piece dont have those
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01-10-2018, 11:18 AM | #12 |
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Shouldn't have to worry about the lowered suspension, as that won't affect the driveshaft angles, only affects the axle shaft angles since the differential, engine and transmission are all bolted into "cradles" that are bolted to sub-frames.
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01-10-2018, 11:27 AM | #13 | |
Drives: 2011 convertible 2ss/rs Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Houston
Posts: 971
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Quote:
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01-10-2018, 03:53 PM | #14 | |
Drives: o Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: under a rock
Posts: 220
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Quote:
HP isn't the real issue yet. It's more me just looking for ways to get more out of what I've got. Want to do better burn outs you know. That and I need to service my drive shaft anyways. The carrier brg is bad. Feels like its full of sand when I turn it. And since its already out of the car I figured might be a good time to swap it. When I search on it I'm not finding a lot of choices. Looks like DSS, G-Force. And a few total IRS upgrades that are like WAY out of my price range right now. |
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