Max boost? - Page 2 - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

Nailn it · 01-12-2013, 08:23 AM

Mine makes 705 rwp, @ 14 psi. Stock blower . It's been ported, as well as the snout. More than enough blower. Dropped a cam, exhaust, header, pulleys , CAI , superchiller and tune in her. It's a beast !!

dmax86 · 01-12-2013, 09:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nailn it

Mine makes 705 rwp, @ 14 psi. Stock blower . It's been ported, as well as the snout. More than enough blower. Dropped a cam, exhaust, header, pulleys , CAI , superchiller and tune in her. It's a beast !!

which cam did you go with? and pulley setup? Also who ported your blower and snout... $$???

sammyv · 01-12-2013, 10:49 AM

M6 675 rwhp.

Enough · 01-12-2013, 11:36 AM

The most critical factor (other than extreme RPM) is just staying in the blowers efficiency range. You can find these maps on Eaton's or other blower manufacturer's sites. The chart shows an area of maximum efficiency based on pressure ratio and output volume. As you leave the most efficient area the temperatures of output air goes up substantially. Usually you will be having charge temperature problems before you mechanically over-spin the blower to unsafe RPMs. If you want more than two or three more pounds of boost over stock the best method (not cheapest) is to go to a larger blower. If you push a blower past it's max efficiency zone you can get away with a quick dyno run or a single 1/4 mile pass without an icebox, but you will soon find the ECM pulling large amounts of timing thus power.

The Baron · 01-12-2013, 12:19 PM

Again. I see more hear say.

My zl I intake charge (data logged, no guessing) runs 30degrees over ambient at wot at about 130mph ( full run) with a stock heat exchanger.

Hardly anything to worry about. I am going to put a blower expansion tank on so I can add capacity and can add ice during.tack time.

My caddy has seen hundreds of track passes and it will get hot because of sitting and no air moving over the exchanger to bring it down.

Perfect setup would be expansion tank with external switch for factory pump so you could cycle water through the blower during cool down in staging wit h a fan on the heat exchanger.

Skylane765 · 01-12-2013, 01:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by The Baron

Again. I see more hear say.

My zl I intake charge (data logged, no guessing) runs 30degrees over ambient at wot at about 130mph ( full run) with a stock heat exchanger.

Hardly anything to worry about. I am going to put a blower expansion tank on so I can add capacity and can add ice during.tack time.

My caddy has seen hundreds of track passes and it will get hot because of sitting and no air moving over the exchanger to bring it down.

Perfect setup would be expansion tank with external switch for factory pump so you could cycle water through the blower during cool down in staging wit h a fan on the heat exchanger.

That can be done, I am working on that now. We have control of the pump and fans.

We need a bypass valve so the fluid will not go though the blower when sitting.

The Baron · 01-12-2013, 01:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Skylane765

That can be done, I am working on that now. We have control of the pump and fans.

We need a bypass valve so the fluid will not go though the blower when sitting.

I think running the fluid through the blower is the thing TO do. I want the case and brick tempbrought down as well..

Skylane765 · 01-12-2013, 01:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by The Baron

I think running the fluid through the blower is the thing TO do. I want the case and brick tempbrought down as well..

No, the heat from the engine will heat the ice you are using

That way you can run the car in the lanes while cooling the tank.

If you are trying to cool below ambient, then you would not want it to go though the blower. Now is only cooling to ambient the its ok to let it go though the blower.

Skylane765 · 01-12-2013, 01:50 PM

You would want to get the tank as cold as you can when the car is sitting. So you would not want the heat of the motor heating your fluid up.

Any tank should be in front of the car and not the engine bay.
You would cool the blower just be fore staging or a little before.
Get that tank as cold as you can, then cool the blower a few min before.

Supercharged SS · 01-12-2013, 01:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by The Baron

I think running the fluid through the blower is the thing TO do. I want the case and brick tempbrought down as well..

I've been doing this for over 2 years with my car. Its the JRE super chiller. The maggie IC flows back into a 5 gallon cel in the trunk. The cell gets filled with ice and then a secondary pumps returns it directly into the blower. The results are awesome.

The Baron · 01-12-2013, 02:01 PM

Thing is the blower case and brick have to be cool before the next pass.. there is only one two ways to do this. Ice bag or run coolent through. .remember this is not like a traditional intercooler setup. The brick being held in the blower makes it where needs to be pulled out somehow. As far as placement the best place for a tank is the trunk. The trick is a valve to drain the tank.

Run the car, ice, run pump, drain, re ice. Cars ready to run again.

Supercharged SS · 01-12-2013, 02:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by The Baron

Thing is the blower case and brick have to be cool before the next pass.. there is only one two ways to do this. Ice bag or run coolent through. .remember this is not like a traditional intercooler setup. The brick being held in the blower makes it where needs to be pulled out somehow. As far as placement the best place for a tank is the trunk. The trick is a valve to drain the tank.

Run the car, ice, run pump, drain, re ice. Cars ready to run again.

This is already avaialble if you guys want it. It's on Teds site.
That's exactly what I do B. Those steps you pointed out.

Skylane765 · 01-12-2013, 02:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by The Baron

Thing is the blower case and brick have to be cool before the next pass.. there is only one two ways to do this. Ice bag or run coolent through. .remember this is not like a traditional intercooler setup. The brick being held in the blower makes it where needs to be pulled out somehow. As far as placement the best place for a tank is the trunk. The trick is a valve to drain the tank.

Run the car, ice, run pump, drain, re ice. Cars ready to run again.

Running though the brick in the lanes will warm the cold water you want. Yes before the run open the pay pass and cool the brick. If you want below ambient.

Skylane765 · 01-12-2013, 02:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Supercharged SS

This is already avaialble if you guys want it. It's on Teds site.
That's exactly what I do B. Those steps you pointed out.

Yes, I saw that.

Turn the pump off when icing will also work, just not as much cold fluid if you run the pump though the system with out going into the brick.

01-12-2013, 08:23 AM	#15
Nailn it Drives: 2013 ZL1 Ashen Gray / Manual Join Date: May 2012 Location: Wilmington NC Posts: 208	Mine makes 705 rwp, @ 14 psi. Stock blower . It's been ported, as well as the snout. More than enough blower. Dropped a cam, exhaust, header, pulleys , CAI , superchiller and tune in her. It's a beast !! Last edited by Nailn it; 01-12-2013 at 10:25 AM.

01-12-2013, 01:50 PM	#23
Skylane765 Drives: ZL1-1LE, Z/28 Join Date: May 2012 Location: San Diego Posts: 3,262 View My Garage	You would want to get the tank as cold as you can when the car is sitting. So you would not want the heat of the motor heating your fluid up. Any tank should be in front of the car and not the engine bay. You would cool the blower just be fore staging or a little before. Get that tank as cold as you can, then cool the blower a few min before. Last edited by Skylane765; 01-12-2013 at 02:01 PM.

01-12-2013, 10:49 AM	#17
sammyv Drives: 2013 red Lingenfelter ZL1 Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: zionsville IN Posts: 567	M6 675 rwhp.

01-12-2013, 11:36 AM	#18
Enough Drives: 2013ZL1 Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: Northern California Posts: 94	The most critical factor (other than extreme RPM) is just staying in the blowers efficiency range. You can find these maps on Eaton's or other blower manufacturer's sites. The chart shows an area of maximum efficiency based on pressure ratio and output volume. As you leave the most efficient area the temperatures of output air goes up substantially. Usually you will be having charge temperature problems before you mechanically over-spin the blower to unsafe RPMs. If you want more than two or three more pounds of boost over stock the best method (not cheapest) is to go to a larger blower. If you push a blower past it's max efficiency zone you can get away with a quick dyno run or a single 1/4 mile pass without an icebox, but you will soon find the ECM pulling large amounts of timing thus power.

01-12-2013, 12:19 PM	#19
The Baron Drives: 2013 zl1 Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: st louis Posts: 838	Again. I see more hear say. My zl I intake charge (data logged, no guessing) runs 30degrees over ambient at wot at about 130mph ( full run) with a stock heat exchanger. Hardly anything to worry about. I am going to put a blower expansion tank on so I can add capacity and can add ice during.tack time. My caddy has seen hundreds of track passes and it will get hot because of sitting and no air moving over the exchanger to bring it down. Perfect setup would be expansion tank with external switch for factory pump so you could cycle water through the blower during cool down in staging wit h a fan on the heat exchanger.

01-12-2013, 02:01 PM	#25
The Baron Drives: 2013 zl1 Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: st louis Posts: 838	Thing is the blower case and brick have to be cool before the next pass.. there is only one two ways to do this. Ice bag or run coolent through. .remember this is not like a traditional intercooler setup. The brick being held in the blower makes it where needs to be pulled out somehow. As far as placement the best place for a tank is the trunk. The trick is a valve to drain the tank. Run the car, ice, run pump, drain, re ice. Cars ready to run again.