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Old 12-10-2018, 10:04 AM   #925
CFD


 
Drives: 2SS/RS L99 BLACK
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Got a good jump on the next floor section. This is a little more complicated because you cannot final fit it until it is bent and it cannot be bent until the bead roller work so first I cut the panel very close to the final dimension then work from the middle out to allow some room for final trimming. I then marked the bend lines and then the first section for rolling, then moved on to the next section. I have an appointment but I'm hoping when I get back I'll have enough time to do the last section and flange the edges. Then I will need to do the bends. The panel is to big for my brake so I will be doing it by hand.
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Old 12-10-2018, 01:17 PM   #926
Splat

 
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Very cool, Iv been toying with the idea of getting a bead roller.
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Old 12-10-2018, 05:07 PM   #927
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Very cool, Iv been toying with the idea of getting a bead roller.
If you're doing any kind of sheet metal panels like floors, firewalls, tubs, etc that need stiffness it's well worth it. You would be surprised what can be done with them with the right dies.


Finished the bead work and did the flanges on the floor. Tomorrow I will make the bends and fit it in place. I won't be able to install it until I lift the body a few inches. I need to trim the bottom of the tubs and do a 90 deg bend to mate to the flange on the floor pan. I'll need to do that by hand as well.
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Old 12-10-2018, 08:39 PM   #928
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Hey is that a Husky digital angle finder? I have one as I do a lot of woodworking, probably the best $20 I ever spent.
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Old 12-10-2018, 09:08 PM   #929
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Hey is that a Husky digital angle finder? I have one as I do a lot of woodworking, probably the best $20 I ever spent.
It is. It's a very useful piece.
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Old 12-11-2018, 01:18 AM   #930
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Clecos ;o)

Amazing work...

-Don
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Old 12-11-2018, 05:31 PM   #931
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Clecos ;o)

Amazing work...

-Don
Thanks, I appreciate it.

Had a chance to bend the floor pan, as I mentioned it was to big for my brake so I clamped it to my frame stand and used an aluminum bar with a couple of clamps to hold it and act as levers. I then raised the body, trimmed the tubs and made the 90 deg bend to mate to the flange and got the pan in place. I was able to secure the rear with Clecos but the sides are right above the frame rails. This creates a small problem in that I cannot drill holes for the Clecos with the frame there, I don't want to raise the body to drill them because it's not sturdy enough to stay in alignment. I may raise the pan, drill holes in that, then lower it and do spot welds to secure it until I can take the body off. The only obstacle is that I won't be able to see if everything is lined up properly because of the frame. I'm going to have to think about that a little.
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Old 12-12-2018, 03:58 PM   #932
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Decided the best way to get all the seams nice and tight would be to wait until I lift the body again so I tac welded a few of the areas I could easily access to keep everything secure. It stiffened everything right up. I still need to do a structural piece for the rear of the trunk floor to get that finished off and I also need to do a panel to separate the trunk from passenger compartment, it also ties into and reinforces the window channels but I'm going to hold off on that for now. I want to move on to the firewall. I marked out two different ways to cut it that will mate well to the new one. If I cut it on the red line I won't have to deal with the inner structure but I will have to deal with extra holes and previous repairs. If I cut on the blue line I get rid of all the holes and repairs but have to separate factory panels on 80 year old factory metal and will have to weld in bracing. I decided to cut the red line first ant then take another look. After doing so and looking at it from under the dash it came to me. If I cut it on the green line, which I originally didn't think of, I keep all the factory inner structure, I can then lay the new panel on the area marked with black x's, it will butt weld to the factory seam on the engine side creating a flat panel, then welding the edge from the inside reinforces the original metal and creates a natural flange for extra strength. Tomorrow I will cut it out and start to work on a template. Because of the shape and offset needed to allow clearance for the motor the firewall will be made of 2-3 different sections depending on the final layout.
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Old 12-13-2018, 06:33 PM   #933
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Got the rest of the firewall cut out, trimmed and cleaned up . This is going to work out perfectly. I then cut out a rough template and secured it to the remaining firewall. Because the shape of the factory seam is quite irregular I use a slightly different method to make the template. I use a hard plastic panel bag hammer and rub it firmly all along the edge I need to follow. The edge is obvious on the template. On the back side of the template the line is very distinct and can be cut out accurately. I removed the template. carefully cut it out along the line and I now have a perfect template for the new panel. Tomorrow I will transfer it to the sheet metal panel and cut it out. To do the recess is going to be lots of work because I've decided to do it with a radius similar to the one on the tubs so it will be consistent with the curves of the car. While in there the original high beam switch survived the sandblasting. Somewhat crude but still working after 80 years. lol
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Old 12-14-2018, 06:24 PM   #934
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Got a little more done today. Decided to follow the original shape of the cowl for the recess, cut it out on the template then transferred it to the steel ,trimmed it and fit it to the car. I cut it out on a throatless shear that way the inner section is the same as the outer so it will serve as the back piece for the firewall.
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Old 12-15-2018, 05:47 PM   #935
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Pretty much got all the firewall pieces finished. The top and back are tac welded together but I didn't weld the front yet. There is one thing that didn't come out quite right. A few friends were by and think I'm nuts but they're all ass holes anyways. lol. Maybe you guys on here will spot it in the first picture and give me your opinions. Obviously it's bothering me but to correct it is a lot of work. I did do a radiused inside corner similar to what I did on the tubs. It's a lot of work but looks much better on this car than if I just did a sharp radius. I also recessed it 3" to give plenty of room behind the heads. One way or another I will finish getting all tacked in place.
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Old 12-16-2018, 12:12 PM   #936
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Firewall is done with the exception of welding, I am running low on Argon and would rather save it for tacking other components so I can keep moving. I had an issue yesterday for a cosmetic thing, it was holding me up, so first thing this morning I decided I was going to try to fix it rather than live with it or making a new piece. I was quite skeptical because typically it doesn't work well but it came out really good. It's not perfect but can easily be finished by hand. So I tacked it all together and temporarily installed it so I can move on. This opens up a whole new area to attend to. I was hoping to use the existing floor for now so I can get back to the chassis but it doesn't make sense. I still need to do a cage and tie all the new sheet metal in to the existing floor which would mean cutting it up in the future so I'm jumping in and doing all the floors and cage now. You can see all the patch work to the floors, consistent with the rest of the work previously done. Before I can cut out the old floor I will need to either make the rear body mounts now or find a way to secure the body with no mid mounts. Before I start cutting I need a game plan so gave it some thought and think I have a design in mind. I have to check with a buddy of mine, who knows NHRA rules, on the cage construction just to make sure. The original floor had multiple layers in the areas of the body mounts for strength. My thought is to use a 1/8 plate for a sill for the floor and for seat mounts, this will give me strength and good fastening points for the body mounts, if it meets specs I will also use the sill plate for mounting points for the cage. Then I will tie it into the driveshaft/trans tunnel. From there the actual floor will be made in sections in case of any future repairs. The plate will run pretty much where the tape line is. I'll be back at it tomorrow.
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Old 12-17-2018, 09:52 AM   #937
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I thought you might be going down this road a long time ago. You probably could have got away without doing the floor but I am sure when you are finished you just wouldn't have been happy with yourself. Do you plan on driving this in the winter when you are done?
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Old 12-17-2018, 10:41 AM   #938
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I thought you might be going down this road a long time ago. You probably could have got away without doing the floor but I am sure when you are finished you just wouldn't have been happy with yourself. Do you plan on driving this in the winter when you are done?
I knew I'd be doing floors, I was hoping I could do them later rather than sooner. I do plan on driving it year round, weather permitting. That's one of the reasons I did flanges on all the seams, makes it weather tight.

The best way to do this is like everything else I've done, cut the shit out and take a good look. Looking at it now I have a couple of ideas that would work, biggest issue will be the rockers. They are available, they are hand made and $400.00 a set. I could make them myself but the problem is both rockers on the car have had major repairs done to them and they are both different, I have nothing to go by for reference. Really going to have to give this some thought.
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