12-13-2018, 07:48 AM | #1 |
Drives: 2015 Camaro ZL1 Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: Orange Beach, AL
Posts: 17
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Need some new Clutch advice
My 2015 ZL1's clutch is starting to slip and needs the following according to the dealer,
1. Clutch Pressure Plate 2. Throw Out Bearing 3. Pilot Bearing I have been looking at clutch options all over the internet. All I see are complete kits for $1300 - 2500. My camaro is stock and the only planned upgrades are going to be intake and headers but not for a while. I am not wanting to dump a bunch of money in the clutch at this time. I am finding it really confusing looking at all the sites just offering kits and no individual parts. Can I can some recommendations on the path to take here. I am looking to spend around $400-800 on parts. I am not looking to replace the flywheel at this time. ie I don't think the flywheel has been damaged or needs resurfacing. Please and Thank you! |
12-13-2018, 08:00 AM | #2 |
Drives: 2010 SS 2SS M6 Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Smithsburg, Md.
Posts: 2,446
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When the clutch gets replaced make sure you also get a speed bleeder and replacement clutch line (got mine from Tick). Since I was in a similar predicament not too long ago I got a used stock clutch setup off of ebay for $130 shipped. Incl everything plus the slave! The used clutch only had 6k on it and looked practically new. And since I do all of my own work zero labor $$$
Good luck! peace
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2010 SS 2SS M6 - Tune by RDP dynoSteve!(Woot) - Daily Driver - 150K! - All work by me...
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12-13-2018, 10:16 AM | #3 |
Drives: 2015 Camaro ZL1 Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: Orange Beach, AL
Posts: 17
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I am definitely getting the speed bleeder.Thanks for the reply
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12-13-2018, 10:19 AM | #4 |
Drives: 1997 Camaro SS Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: STL
Posts: 106
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If your clutch is slipping you will probably need to replace the flywheel as well. Either go with the stock ZL1 clutch or a McLeod RXT.
And get this: https://www.tickperformance.com/tick...ave-cylinders/ Last edited by 2thousand2; 12-13-2018 at 10:24 AM. Reason: added info |
12-13-2018, 10:27 AM | #5 |
Drives: 2010 camaro ss Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: new york
Posts: 156
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it would be more time and money to remove the trans again to get to the fly wheel later on. ur better off just doing it all at the same time and be done with it. plus you wouldnt want a bad flywheel to mess up ur new clutch
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2010 Cyber Gray Metallic 2SS/RS LS3 6 Speed -- Rotofab CAI | Stainless Works Longtubes w/ high flow cats | Muffler Delete | TSP 229/244 stage 2 cam| TSP .660" Spring Kit | TSP CNC Ported Heads | Mulling high volume oil pump | PTB | Trunnion upgrade | Hurst short throw shifter | Elite Engineering Catch Can | Exedy stage 1 clutch |
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12-13-2018, 11:15 AM | #6 |
Drives: 2010 Camaro 2SS/RS M6 Join Date: May 2009
Location: Idaho
Posts: 726
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If you really don't plan any mods beyond what you listed above, you are probably wasting money if you purchase a high dollar aftermarket clutch. If i was in your position, I would just replace with a stock set-up. The only issue with that is if you do decide to pump up the HP numbers later, you might not have enough clutch.
Also, your list of parts above is missing a friction disk. You want that for sure. Also, you're going to want to at least have the old flywheel re-surfaced. Sure, you can do it without re-surfacing the flywheel, but why go to all of the trouble and not do the job correctly? My advice would be to find a kit that has everything you need included in the kit, and not try to purchase everything seperately. This is free advice, take it for what it's worth. Lots of guys will have differing opinions.
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GPI SS2; EE E2 catch can; SP 1 7/8" LT Headers w/ hfc; FM AT 3" cat-back; CAI Cold Air Intake; AEM Wideband
Tuned by GPI McCleod RXT; MGW flat stick; Ram Clutch slave cylinder & hydraulic adjuster BMR cradle & diff bushings, trailing arms, toe rods & upper control arm bushings Hotchkis sub-frame brace Stop Tech Z-23 brakes 4.10 gears, Eaton Truetrac, LPW diff cover Best 1/4 mile 12.073 @ 115.68 mph 3,300 ft DA |
12-13-2018, 11:51 AM | #7 |
fo'shizZL1
Drives: 2017 ZL1 Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: ATL
Posts: 1,281
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Based on your clutch budget and your future planned mods, I'd just stick to the stock clutch. You should be able to get the stock stuff and the bleeder within your budget (as long as you don't buy them from the stealership's parts counter).
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2017 ZL1 M6 Black | Maggie 2650 // 103TB // Big Gulp
Past Rides- 2014 ZL1 M6 Red Hot | Tons of mods 2004 CTS-V M6 Silver | Many mods 1995 Corvette M6 Torch Red | A few more mods 1992 Camaro M5 White | A few mods |
12-13-2018, 08:55 PM | #8 | |
Drives: ZL1, 2013, tri-coat-red, manual Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Michigan
Posts: 1,607
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Quote:
You can attemp to have it resurfaced but taking it off means you are replacing all the bolts as they are one time torque to yield. If you did nothing and it has burn marks on the flywheel it will grab for awhile until it gets hot and it will begin to slip again because the clutch material won’t bond. |
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12-14-2018, 12:02 AM | #9 |
Drives: 2015 Camaro ZL1 Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: Orange Beach, AL
Posts: 17
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Where would I source the bolts? ARP?
One more question so I make sure I get this right... Dealer says throwout bearing needs to be replaced. Online gmparts doesn't have a throwout bearing... but they do have a slave cylinder with "release bearing" is that what they mean? Funny I bet the slave cylinder is covered on warranty and throwout bearing isn't. and I am definitely getting the one man slave speed bleeder! BTW Took it to my transmission guy today with 30 years experience and used to do trans work for the dealers ... his exact words were.... "Yes I feel it slipping, but I have never felt one slip like this." |
12-14-2018, 03:31 AM | #10 |
fo'shizZL1
Drives: 2017 ZL1 Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: ATL
Posts: 1,281
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Yes, the slave cylinder is effectively the throwout bearing in this design. I assume that's what they mean. You can buy stock bolts. Sometimes arp gets into trouble on these because they protrude too much, if I remember correctly.
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2017 ZL1 M6 Black | Maggie 2650 // 103TB // Big Gulp
Past Rides- 2014 ZL1 M6 Red Hot | Tons of mods 2004 CTS-V M6 Silver | Many mods 1995 Corvette M6 Torch Red | A few more mods 1992 Camaro M5 White | A few mods |
12-14-2018, 08:09 AM | #11 |
Drives: 2002 Camaro SS SOM; 2015 Malibu LTZ Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Queens, NY
Posts: 4,019
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Did the dealer say what the cause of the slipping of the clutch was? I thought the clutches were fairly heavy duty in ZLs. Did you have a lot of usage with it?
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12-14-2018, 09:26 AM | #12 | |
Drives: ZL1, 2013, tri-coat-red, manual Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Michigan
Posts: 1,607
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Quote:
Put it in 4th at around 25 to 30 and slight brake and full throttle you will know for sure if its worn. The Throwout bearing is a separate piece and if you don't know your parts guy you should order it from a GM dealer using the VIN#. I would not use ARP bolts on the flywheel as these are stretch to to yield bolts. They are online at Summit Racing or any dealer. Throwout bearing is good to about 45K or more depending on driving habbit's. If it's very noisy, or heavy vibration it's gone, if you have more than 25k miles and your in there it should be replaced. The tools to do it right are the big expense. Yes they are good clutches but excessive No LIft Shifts or slipping the clutch will eat them just like any other clutch. |
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12-14-2018, 10:00 PM | #13 |
Drives: Camaro 1LT V6 & 2015 ZL1 Fun Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Oregon
Posts: 28
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How do you know if the clutch is slipping???? I also have a 2015 and going through issues with diff and drive line.
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12-14-2018, 10:40 PM | #14 | |
Drives: ZL1, 2013, tri-coat-red, manual Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Michigan
Posts: 1,607
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Quote:
Easiest test is drop it in 4 th around 25 -30 mph and go to full through with slight brake, rpms shouldn’t take off excessively. That’s a test for one slipping bad, if it’s just starting to slip try 3rd. |
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clutch, zl1 |
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