Need some new Clutch advice

[pmaxcslt]

My 2015 ZL1's clutch is starting to slip and needs the following according to the dealer,

1. Clutch Pressure Plate
2. Throw Out Bearing
3. Pilot Bearing

I have been looking at clutch options all over the internet. All I see are complete kits for $1300 - 2500. My camaro is stock and the only planned upgrades are going to be intake and headers but not for a while. I am not wanting to dump a bunch of money in the clutch at this time. I am finding it really confusing looking at all the sites just offering kits and no individual parts. Can I can some recommendations on the path to take here. I am looking to spend around $400-800 on parts. I am not looking to replace the flywheel at this time. ie I don't think the flywheel has been damaged or needs resurfacing.

Please and Thank you!

[frankwjr]

When the clutch gets replaced make sure you also get a speed bleeder and replacement clutch line (got mine from Tick). Since I was in a similar predicament not too long ago I got a used stock clutch setup off of ebay for $130 shipped. Incl everything plus the slave! The used clutch only had 6k on it and looked practically new. And since I do all of my own work zero labor $$$


Good luck!


peace

[pmaxcslt]

I am definitely getting the speed bleeder.Thanks for the reply

[2thousand2]

If your clutch is slipping you will probably need to replace the flywheel as well. Either go with the stock ZL1 clutch or a McLeod RXT.

And get this:

https://www.tickperformance.com/tick...ave-cylinders/

[JooktheSnooke]

it would be more time and money to remove the trans again to get to the fly wheel later on. ur better off just doing it all at the same time and be done with it. plus you wouldnt want a bad flywheel to mess up ur new clutch

[zlathim]

If you really don't plan any mods beyond what you listed above, you are probably wasting money if you purchase a high dollar aftermarket clutch. If i was in your position, I would just replace with a stock set-up. The only issue with that is if you do decide to pump up the HP numbers later, you might not have enough clutch.

Also, your list of parts above is missing a friction disk. You want that for sure. Also, you're going to want to at least have the old flywheel re-surfaced. Sure, you can do it without re-surfacing the flywheel, but why go to all of the trouble and not do the job correctly? My advice would be to find a kit that has everything you need included in the kit, and not try to purchase everything seperately. This is free advice, take it for what it's worth. Lots of guys will have differing opinions.

[RobZL1]

Based on your clutch budget and your future planned mods, I'd just stick to the stock clutch. You should be able to get the stock stuff and the bleeder within your budget (as long as you don't buy them from the stealership's parts counter).

[ZMEnow]

Originally Posted by zlathim

If you really don't plan any mods beyond what you listed above, you are probably wasting money if you purchase a high dollar aftermarket clutch. If i was in your position, I would just replace with a stock set-up. The only issue with that is if you do decide to pump up the HP numbers later, you might not have enough clutch.

Also, your list of parts above is missing a friction disk. You want that for sure. Also, you're going to want to at least have the old flywheel re-surfaced. Sure, you can do it without re-surfacing the flywheel, but why go to all of the trouble and not do the job correctly? My advice would be to find a kit that has everything you need included in the kit, and not try to purchase everything seperately. This is free advice, take it for what it's worth. Lots of guys will have differing opinions.

If you are referring to the clutch disk when you say friction disk they come with the pressure plate as it’s dual clutch. Whomever you get it from make sure they have a liberal return policy because if dropped during shipment the inner clutch disk will slide and it’s impossible to get enough pressure on the pressure plate to realign it, in otherwords it’s toast.. I wouldn’t be cheap on not replacing the flywheel since you’re in there and if it isn’t resurfaced you will never get a good bond of material from the outer clutch disk.

You can attemp to have it resurfaced but taking it off means you are replacing all the bolts as they are one time torque to yield. If you did nothing and it has burn
marks on the flywheel it will grab for awhile until it gets hot and it will begin to slip again because the clutch material won’t bond.

[pmaxcslt]

Where would I source the bolts? ARP?

One more question so I make sure I get this right... Dealer says throwout bearing needs to be replaced. Online gmparts doesn't have a throwout bearing... but they do have a slave cylinder with "release bearing" is that what they mean?

Funny I bet the slave cylinder is covered on warranty and throwout bearing isn't.

and I am definitely getting the one man slave speed bleeder!

BTW Took it to my transmission guy today with 30 years experience and used to do trans work for the dealers ... his exact words were.... "Yes I feel it slipping, but I have never felt one slip like this."

[RobZL1]

Yes, the slave cylinder is effectively the throwout bearing in this design. I assume that's what they mean. You can buy stock bolts. Sometimes arp gets into trouble on these because they protrude too much, if I remember correctly.

[lbls1]

Did the dealer say what the cause of the slipping of the clutch was? I thought the clutches were fairly heavy duty in ZLs. Did you have a lot of usage with it?

[ZMEnow]

Originally Posted by pmaxcslt

Where would I source the bolts? ARP?

One more question so I make sure I get this right... Dealer says throwout bearing needs to be replaced. Online gmparts doesn't have a throwout bearing... but they do have a slave cylinder with "release bearing" is that what they mean?

Funny I bet the slave cylinder is covered on warranty and throwout bearing isn't.

and I am definitely getting the one man slave speed bleeder!

BTW Took it to my transmission guy today with 30 years experience and used to do trans work for the dealers ... his exact words were.... "Yes I feel it slipping, but I have never felt one slip like this."

Put it in 4th at around 25 to 30 and slight brake and full throttle you will know for sure if its worn. The Throwout bearing is a separate piece and if you don't know your parts guy you should order it from a GM dealer using the VIN#. I would not use ARP bolts on the flywheel as these are stretch to to yield bolts. They are online at Summit Racing or any dealer.


Throwout bearing is good to about 45K or more depending on driving habbit's. If it's very noisy, or heavy vibration it's gone, if you have more than 25k miles and your in there it should be replaced. The tools to do it right are the big expense.


Yes they are good clutches but excessive No LIft Shifts or slipping the clutch will eat them just like any other clutch.

[ECO1369]

How do you know if the clutch is slipping???? I also have a 2015 and going through issues with diff and drive line.

[ZMEnow]

Originally Posted by ECO1369

How do you know if the clutch is slipping???? I also have a 2015 and going through issues with diff and drive line.

Rpms rising unusually fast under heavy throttle, but the symptoms vary based on how bad it is. If it’s really bad it won’t take hi rpm shifts without slipping, or heavy launches without slipping.

Easiest test is drop it in 4 th around 25 -30 mph and go to full through with slight brake, rpms shouldn’t take off excessively. That’s a test for one slipping bad, if it’s just starting to slip try 3rd.