Upgrade oil pump? Oil type? Spun bearing LSA issues

[Astatenate]

Originally Posted by xdamxincx

the oil bypass delete requires taking the oil pan off... which requires pulling the engine out ...

Well congrats on ruining my day HAHA! Lol no other way to drop oil pan? There’s no way to drop the cross member? Guess I’ve never really looked at how it would come out. I am used to imports. 12 bolts and you drop the pan.

[gtstorey]

The cross member can be cut out, flanges welded on and put back in. Member CFD used to sell (maybe still does?) machined flanges to do this.

[Astatenate]

Originally Posted by gtstorey

The cross member can be cut out, flanges welded on and put back in. Member CFD used to sell (maybe still does?) machined flanges to do this.

Hmm now you’re speaking my language. when the time comes. I’ll dig more into this! I’m gonna get with my mechanic friend. We normally tag team projects together. He has more LSA knowledge.

So is oil pump basically useless without getting rid of the bypass valve? He said we could drop the pan enough to replace gasket / replace pump without dropping it completely.

[RobZL1]

Not useless at all in my opinion. The bypass is still flow limited vs. even the standard 10355 that I have (granted it's ported, coated, and blueprinted). That pump makes a LOT more pressure than the stock one, and it pulls over 50 psi as well, since it outflows the bypass orifice. I'll pull a log at WOT in the next couple of days and let you know where the pressure peaks at 7k RPM.

[Astatenate]

Originally Posted by RobZL1

Not useless at all in my opinion. The bypass is still flow limited vs. even the standard 10355 that I have (granted it's ported, coated, and blueprinted). That pump makes a LOT more pressure than the stock one, and it pulls over 50 psi as well, since it outflows the bypass orifice. I'll pull a log at WOT in the next couple of days and let you know where the pressure peaks at 7k RPM.

Hmm so the 10355hv might still be a good idea if that’s all I can get done. Leaving the bypass in place?

[RobZL1]

Originally Posted by Astatenate

Hmm so the 10355hv might still be a good idea if that’s all I can get done. Leaving the bypass in place?

Maybe. Hard to say since the "hv" is a new version that I haven't heard much about. What I can say for certain is that the standard 10355 puts out more oil pressure across the board than stock. I can also say it will sustain more than 50psi, even with the bypass still in place. Not many people remove the bypass with the engine still in the car. I don't think I've ever heard of anyone removing the bypass during a cam swap in a ZL1 or CTS-V. Once I get back to my other laptop, I can let you know what my WOT oil pressures look like.

[Astatenate]

Originally Posted by RobZL1

Maybe. Hard to say since the "hv" is a new version that I haven't heard much about. [continued...]

Hmm I got into contact with Melling. And they spoke highly about the HV version. Guaranteeing better performance and psi than the 10355. For the same price. I didn’t see a reason NOT to install the HV version. So if your 10355 is good. I’m sure the HV will match or beat it. And not do bypass. Save me LOTS of unneeded time.

[JB'sZL1]

Fwiw: I installed a BTR cam this spring and no bypass delete...never even considered it. No issues.

[Astatenate]

Originally Posted by JB'sZL1

Fwiw: I installed a BTR cam this spring and no bypass delete...never even considered it. No issues.

Hmm prob end up installing cam and 10355hv pump and leave bypass valve! Thanks guys!

[xdamxincx]

i would choose the 355hv if i was in your shoes...js

[Astatenate]

Originally Posted by xdamxincx

i would choose the 355hv if i was in your shoes...js

Thinking I’m going to! The 355 seems to be doing others above real good. So the HV will at least be just as good. And promises to be better by Melling. So seems like I can’t wrong with the HV. And with others not doing the bypass delete and still having good oil pressure. I’ll most likely just do that!

[RobZL1]

I need to correct my earlier statement:

At WOT, it spikes above 50psi to about 53 or so, holds for a bit, then slowly drops to 48-50 for the last couple thousand RPM of the pull. So, the bypass does actually bypass at 50. Maybe the HV will flow more than the bypass can handle and keep the pressure up.

That said, as noted above nobody installing a cam pulls the pan to do the bypass as far as I know. I'm sure you'll be fine like the vast majority of us. If you ever pull the motor or build a motor- different story.

Sorry for the mis-information. I don't know what I was remembering, but it was wrong.

[Astatenate]

Originally Posted by RobZL1

I need to correct my earlier statement:

At WOT. [continued...]

Hey no worries man! Yeah I think I’m gonna bite the bullet on the 10355hv and just be done with it. Anything will be better than the pump I got in there for 40k miles it’s sitting at now. With 700+ whp now. I just wanna throw a new one in. Even if it just keeps me from having to do it later. Or bearing failure. I’m confident the 10355hv will be just as good, if not better than 10355 (which already seems to be a tad better than the OEM) .. So I should be good!

[xdamxincx]

Originally Posted by Astatenate

Hey no worries man! Yeah I think I’m gonna bite the bullet on the 10355hv and just be done with it. Anything will be better than the pump I got in there for 40k miles it’s sitting at now. With 700+ whp now. I just wanna throw a new one in. Even if it just keeps me from having to do it later. Or bearing failure. I’m confident the 10355hv will be just as good, if not better than 10355 (which already seems to be a tad better than the OEM) .. So I should be good!

the hv will be better as it promises more volume... let us know how it turns out ...