Finally another build

[rpol78]

What did you lay down with the old engine? Was this on pump gas or E?

[RupertPupkin]

On juiced motorsports junk tune it made 700 on 93 and 750 on e85, then I had modern muscle do another thne on their dyno jet, and that made 799/800 on e. The dyno now is a dyno jet X1224c at koza.

[eLeSthree]

Originally Posted by RupertPupkin

Update. Car got dynoed... revved it up to 7k RPMs. Car made 700whp, and I believe on a mustang dyno. Dsx/ZL1 pump I guess was 96% duty cycle. Hit 8/9 lbs of boost.


I'm happy it's running, but seems low. Yet again...idk. Thoughts?

I will assume you are running e85. I would ask the tuner at Koza if they licensed and tuned the FSCM to work well with the DSX Aux pump. With FIC1200cc injectors/zl1pump/aux you should have enough fuel system for 800whp on E75.

If the FSCM isnt expecting, say 72psi, then it will try to slow down the ZL1 pump when the aux kicks in.

Once your fuel system is working, I would check the pulley setup to make sure you are spinning that blower right at or just above its max recommended impeller speed by 7000rpm. It's too small for a 408, so its gonna have a hard time feeding 15psi into that new motor.

Which cam is in it?

[RupertPupkin]

Originally Posted by eLeSthree

I will assume you are running e85. I would ask the tuner at Koza if they licensed and tuned the FSCM to work well with the DSX Aux pump. With FIC1200cc injectors/zl1pump/aux you should have enough fuel system for 800whp on E75.

If the FSCM isnt expecting, say 72psi, then it will try to slow down the ZL1 pump when the aux kicks in.

Once your fuel system is working, I would check the pulley setup to make sure you are spinning that blower right at or just above its max recommended impeller speed by 7000rpm. It's too small for a 408, so its gonna have a hard time feeding 15psi into that new motor.

Which cam is in it?

Yes e85. I run straight E85 99% of the time, and the car went in with 1/2 a tank of e85. Should be a centri style cam, but not sure on specs. Engines a 402 with 7.25 lower and 3.47 upper, that's what the timer kit came with when I bought it. Based on vortex's blower calculator with the specs, the blower was spinning at 50,500rpm (52,000 max speed).

This is what was sent to me.

Hey, its John this time as Jake went home for the day. We just Finished up on the dyno, earlier we were only seeing 8-9 lbs of boost but the brand new belt just needed a bit of an adjustment, and that netted us another 1-1/2 lbs of boost. Its not common to lose some boost going to the little bigger motor and a more efficient Camshaft, When jake first reached out to you it was only making 630-640 but ended up right at 700 on our dyno. (which yes it a bit of heartbreaker dyno) but as we tell every customer a dyno is just a tuning tool and to not be hung on numbers, especially with some of the astronomical numbers we have seen and been told by other shops in the area..

Regardless, were 700hp and 96% Duty Cycle (which is not the injectors now obviously but is the actual pump/supply of the system thats at its limits). Pressure drops/fluctuatues a bit after peak tq once it gets into some rpm/boost we i kept it on the safer side of timing as well.

Last but not least, your IAT's are climbing tremendously.. Ambient air being 68 Degrees in our shop (Car is reading 70-72 before the pull, and ending 119 Degrees by 7kRpm). So its also a large suggestion to get a better intercooler on this thing as HIGh IAT's and Timing (plus Running high duty cycle) is just asking for problems.

Therefore i would look into doing the Fuel Pump assembly, intercooler and then pulley down to get some more boost out of it for Future Mods. I cant remember but i believe when you and i spoke a while ago you had or were getting another blower for it (unless that was someone else at the time) but bumping up the Blower would just make everything overall more efficient.

[RupertPupkin]

Had another revised tune. 730/627

[RupertPupkin]

Took the car home finally... she f-ing RIPS. Feels just as fast if not faster than before. No hot starts, idle is smooth. Just need a good detail, and need to find a way to get rid of the smell of oil in the cabin.

Overall happy.

Question: oil pressure is hovering around 60, and pegging 69/70psi. I haven't really looked at that part of the instrument cluster, but is it normal? Also, stick with 5w30 synthetic, or change it up?

[Ashen 6.2]

Originally Posted by RupertPupkin

Took the car home finally... she f-ing RIPS. Feels just as fast if not faster than before. No hot starts, idle is smooth. Just need a good detail, and need to find a way to get rid of the smell of oil in the cabin.

Overall happy.

Question: oil pressure is hovering around 60, and pegging 69/70psi. I haven't really looked at that part of the instrument cluster, but is it normal? Also, stick with 5w30 synthetic, or change it up?

I would ask the builder what they recommend for oil and go with that. On my new build, it's hitting 80psi cold and stays around 60 when it warms up. Thats with break-in oil and they recommended I use 20w50 going forward and will get that changed this weekend.

[RupertPupkin]

They said 5w30 synthetic. I've always used Mobil 1 on everything.

[Ashen 6.2]

Originally Posted by RupertPupkin

They said 5w30 synthetic. I've always used Mobil 1 on everything.

Gotcha. I used Mobil one since the car was new until I added the S/C. Then switched to Driven LS30 which is a 5w30 oil.

[rpol78]

Originally Posted by RupertPupkin

They said 5w30 synthetic. I've always used Mobil 1 on everything.

Did the engine builder recommend a break in procedure? I know total seal recommends using non synthetic oil during break in. Actually Driven (Joe Gibbs Racing) brands their oil for Total Seal.

[RupertPupkin]

Yeah. There's be real in oil in there right now. They said after 1500 miles to swap it.

[RupertPupkin]

Not even 300 miles, and the damn tensioner broke.

[RupertPupkin]

Got a replacement tensioner and got it installed. Did 1 pull, and things went well. Dropped down a gear to do another pull and the damn belt shredded.

Been plagued with shredded belts since day 1. This should be #4 since I've had it built. Any ideas? Doesnt seem like it's misaligned, but hard to tell without the tool.

Really considering swapping out to turbos l if this continues. Deeper the rabbit hole we go.

[Ashen 6.2]

oh damn. In the 3rd pic in the post above, it looks like there are rib marks on the green part of the belt. Am I seeing that right?