[Sephx1]

I have been getting a “service stabilitrak” message for some time now on my 2018 ZL1 1LE. Usually it happens under hard acceleration. Yesterday, it came up under light acceleration, stayed illuminated longer, and I could hear my exhaust tone change as if the valves were opening and closing or the engine was surging. I did not feel any surging, though. The A/C stopped cooling for a minute or so and then it went back to normal. I drove it today and can’t get it to act up again. No codes were set. I have heard that throttle bodies sometimes cause issues like this? Car is cammed and tuned but throttle body is stock. I don’t want to go buying parts without some idea what it could be.

[Vigilante375]

Check your battery. Most of the problems when you see that message is the battery going bad.

Cars these days are dependant on a good operating battery. So I'd start with that first.

[Gunkk]

If the car has headers, check the pass side harness for burns.

Put the battery on a tender for 48hrs. If problems persist, find the best automotive electrician in your area.

[Sephx1]

Found some codes in the BCM, cleared them and then went for a drive to get the message to come up again. Checked for codes and found these. I’m guessing it could be the voltage regulator. Might need to replace the alternator. Wish I knew for sure, that job is a pain. Might not be so bad with the BMR motor mounts.

[Rock-It Man]

Originally Posted by Sephx1

Found some codes in the BCM, cleared them and then went for a drive to get the message to come up again. Checked for codes and found these. I’m guessing it could be the voltage regulator. Might need to replace the alternator. Wish I knew for sure, that job is a pain. Might not be so bad with the BMR motor mounts.

Do take the advice above and get a new battery before exercising more expensive options. I'm speaking from experience.

[STALKER]

Originally Posted by Vigilante375

Check your battery. Most of the problems when you see that message is the battery going bad.

Cars these days are dependant on a good operating battery. So I'd start with that first.

Good advice. The 5th Gens are even worse. I speak from experience.

[Sephx1]

Update - it was not the battery, it was the alternator. I’ve had battery issues in a Gen 6 before, even from a brand new Optima battery which I found aren’t what they used to be. I agree there are a lot of battery related issues, but it turned out that this wasn’t one of them.

I found the problem by reading the BCM codes indicating high voltage, and my service manual indicated that the codes meant a problem with the charging system. Battery voltage on my Aeroforce gauge was bouncing all over and going as high as 15.5 volts.

After getting 2 damage alternators from GM I finally got a good one and installed it. The packaging they put it in is totally inadequate. Working great now.

[taylorforschool@gmail.com]

Originally Posted by Sephx1

Update - it was not the battery, it was the alternator. I’ve had battery issues in a Gen 6 before, even from a brand new Optima battery which I found aren’t what they used to be. I agree there are a lot of battery related issues, but it turned out that this wasn’t one of them.

I found the problem by reading the BCM codes indicating high voltage, and my service manual indicated that the codes meant a problem with the charging system. Battery voltage on my Aeroforce gauge was bouncing all over and going as high as 15.5 volts.

After getting 2 damage alternators from GM I finally got a good one and installed it. The packaging they put it in is totally inadequate. Working great now.

Reminds me of when I was getting my trans under warranty and the 3rd torque converter was the winner. 1st showed up beat to help and the 2nd fit perfectly just didn’t work per the service manager. He wasn’t all that surprised.. good old General for ya

[Sephx1]

Originally Posted by taylorforschool@gmail.com

Reminds me of when I was getting my trans under warranty and the 3rd torque converter was the winner. 1st showed up beat to help and the 2nd fit perfectly just didn’t work per the service manager. He wasn’t all that surprised.. good old General for ya

Yes, I can’t believe the condition of some of the parts they send me. Went through the same thing with an a/c line. It wasn’t even wrapped in plastic.

The first alternator was dropped on the pulley and wouldn’t turn. Second one was broken in the box (pic below). As far as installing, I was able to do it all on a lift from the bottom once the belt was off. Having the BMR motor mounts surely made it easier. Had to remove the shear plate, power steering rack, sway bar, and slightly raise the motor on the passenger side to do it.

[taylorforschool@gmail.com]

Originally Posted by Sephx1

Yes, I can’t believe the condition of some of the parts they send me. Went through the same thing with an a/c line. It wasn’t even wrapped in plastic.

The first alternator was dropped on the pulley and wouldn’t turn. Second one was broken in the box (pic below). As far as installing, I was able to do it all on a lift from the bottom once the belt was off. Having the BMR motor mounts surely made it easier. Had to remove the shear plate, power steering rack, sway bar, and slightly raise the motor on the passenger side to do it.

I work for a shipping company. I try to take pride and care and I’m still younger.. but in general shippers(the people sending the product) as well as shipping companies(usps,ups,Fed-Ex,dhl) could really care about much else besides getting your money. Old as time unfortunately.. refunds and damage claims are usually write offs from my understanding under a certain value. As long as you don’t claim you got a $10,000 part broken or “lost” they usually just take care of it. I’ve also heard shipper insurance claim horror stories specifically about my company and the other big color deliverer.

[arpad_m]

Originally Posted by taylorforschool@gmail.com

I work for a shipping company. I try to take pride and care and I’m still younger.. but in general shippers(the people sending the product) as well as shipping companies(usps,ups,Fed-Ex,dhl) could really care about much else besides getting your money. Old as time unfortunately.. refunds and damage claims are usually write offs from my understanding under a certain value. As long as you don’t claim you got a $10,000 part broken or “lost” they usually just take care of it. I’ve also heard shipper insurance claim horror stories specifically about my company and the other big color deliverer.

Don't lose the spirit, age bringing an increasing lack of pride and care with it isn't inevitable. On the long run, your mentality is the only winning one.

[Vigilante375]

Originally Posted by Sephx1

Update - it was not the battery, it was the alternator. I’ve had battery issues in a Gen 6 before, even from a brand new Optima battery which I found aren’t what they used to be. I agree there are a lot of battery related issues, but it turned out that this wasn’t one of them.

I found the problem by reading the BCM codes indicating high voltage, and my service manual indicated that the codes meant a problem with the charging system. Battery voltage on my Aeroforce gauge was bouncing all over and going as high as 15.5 volts.

After getting 2 damage alternators from GM I finally got a good one and installed it. The packaging they put it in is totally inadequate. Working great now.

I figured it would be either the battery or alternator. The battery is the main culprit a majority of the time. Glad you got it figured out.

These alternators, I believe, are on a charge as needed system or whatever you want to call it. Where is it isn't needed then the current drops and when is needed it jumps up. Anywhere from 11 to 18 volts.

It's crazy how things are with shipping these days. Only in the past 2 years have I started to get broken items or incorrect items. Just document everything when you open it and call right away to get it taken care of.

[Sephx1]

Originally Posted by Vigilante375

I figured it would be either the battery or alternator. The battery is the main culprit a majority of the time. Glad you got it figured out.

These alternators, I believe, are on a charge as needed system or whatever you want to call it. Where is it isn't needed then the current drops and when is needed it jumps up. Anywhere from 11 to 18 volts.

It's crazy how things are with shipping these days. Only in the past 2 years have I started to get broken items or incorrect items. Just document everything when you open it and call right away to get it taken care of.

Thanks, yes the charge does vary depending on loads and battery charge, but what I saw on the Aeroforce gauge was different than what I normally see. It was spiking and changing so fast that it was flickering, and once the alternator was swapped it was rock steady again.