JANNETTY RACING FORCED INDUCTION Q&A

[mikes02ls1]

When’s Whipple making a Gen 5 3.0 blower for the LS3

[ccutaia]

Could I run a 3.750 pulley, with 1 7/8 long tube headers and 3" exhaust all the way back & out, doesn't that free-flowing exhaust drop the boost?

Originally Posted by JANNETTYRACING

I can not recommend this on pump gas.

[JANNETTYRACING]

Originally Posted by mikes02ls1

When’s Whipple making a Gen 5 3.0 blower for the LS3

I was about to ask you the same thing LOL

All Kidding aside we never can get an answer until they are actually available to order, dates are constantly being changed.

Ted.

[JANNETTYRACING]

Originally Posted by ccutaia

Could I run a 3.750 pulley, with 1 7/8 long tube headers and 3" exhaust all the way back & out, doesn't that free-flowing exhaust drop the boost?

Each engine and complete combination will be slightly different.

The exhaust can drop boost some but not as much as you think.

A 3.750 pulley on a Camed LS3 should be done very carefully and on good quality 93 octane fuel or used with Torco additives at ever fill up.

More importantly we have to be sure the fuel system and injectors are sized properly.

Ted.

[Robmnrd]

Hey Ted, just curious:

Based on many of your posts (that I think I am understanding, and I do agree with) it seems the 'heat' problem on stock-blower ZL1s is the stock Brick.

With this in mind, do you suggest doing any type of aftermarket cooling modifications (HX, pump, reservoir, interchiller, etc.) if someone is planning to keep the stock SC? Or does it just make more sense to 'ignore' the heat issue (from that perspective) and just make sure the tune is solid and safe, adjusting for heat appropriately if/when IAT2s eventually end up rising?

Especially on lower hp builds, lower boost builds, DD builds, etc.

Currently reviewing this thread in more detail to see if I can find a detailed post on this subject but we are at 630+ posts so figured this may be quicker... (I'll take a link instead of a response if you've got one! :'D)

[JANNETTYRACING]

Originally Posted by Robmnrd

Hey Ted, just curious:

Based on many of your posts (that I think I am understanding, and I do agree with) it seems the 'heat' problem on stock-blower ZL1s is the stock Brick.

With this in mind, do you suggest doing any type of aftermarket cooling modifications (HX, pump, reservoir, interchiller, etc.) if someone is planning to keep the stock SC? Or does it just make more sense to 'ignore' the heat issue (from that perspective) and just make sure the tune is solid and safe, adjusting for heat appropriately if/when IAT2s eventually end up rising?

Especially on lower hp builds, lower boost builds, DD builds, etc.

Currently reviewing this thread in more detail to see if I can find a detailed post on this subject but we are at 630+ posts so figured this may be quicker... (I'll take a link instead of a response if you've got one! :'D)

Hello Rob, WELLLLLL that is the mentality of the internet bigger bigger more more larger larger, fatter fatter LOL.

NOTHING can change the brick capacity to exchange heat other than changing the brick.

At stock pulley ratios the system is very efficient.

Just be sure and bleed all the air out that is the best option of all and it is practically free.

Focus on complete system efficiency like I did with my 125 Flex fuel road race package, and my custom tuning.

It is a knock it out of the park home run.

No money wasted all the performance available is unleashed and no heating issues.

Once my 125 package is installed you are prepared for the Cam and blower upgrade next which jumps it from 620 RWHP on 93 to 840 RWHP on 93 octane.

Note this package makes 670 RWHP on E-60 in road race conditions and never gives up any HP no matter how long you stay out on the track.

Call me with any questions. 203-753-7223

[Tom45]

I just sent you a text


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[JANNETTYRACING]

Originally Posted by Tom45

I just sent you a text


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Our phone number is a land line not capable of getting Text Messages.

Call or email please.