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Old 10-16-2018, 07:11 PM   #15
christianchevell
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Silicone would just eventually blow out ….. not the best versus compressed metal....you will of course need a tune removing the code for delayed response from the O2s up front being farther away from the engine , and the rears being deleted with their codes to stop the back and forth reading of the two o2 set up compared to older set ups with one set....

and or a dyno tuning session; if not a hand held preloaded tune from a vendor for your mods. Many do the 160 thermostat at the same time,( prep for future cam), and have the fans on earlier also along with any other tweaks such as transmission or Torque management tweak AFR adjustment etc...timing,,,,,,, And remember the heat from headers has a tendency to heat soak starters.... so let it cool off, or wrap them, most heat blocking products to apply to the starter,( non header wrap), are just so so because they can hold in heat also... And don't forget to retorque your header bolts now as they have heated and expanded with the headers...…..
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Old 10-16-2018, 08:59 PM   #16
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Forget the goop, use OEM gaskets they’re the best for headers.
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Old 10-17-2018, 01:54 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by christianchevell View Post
Silicone would just eventually blow out ….. not the best versus compressed metal....you will of course need a tune removing the code for delayed response from the O2s up front being farther away from the engine , and the rears being deleted with their codes to stop the back and forth reading of the two o2 set up compared to older set ups with one set....

and or a dyno tuning session; if not a hand held preloaded tune from a vendor for your mods. Many do the 160 thermostat at the same time,( prep for future cam), and have the fans on earlier also along with any other tweaks such as transmission or Torque management tweak AFR adjustment etc...timing,,,,,,, And remember the heat from headers has a tendency to heat soak starters.... so let it cool off, or wrap them, most heat blocking products to apply to the starter,( non header wrap), are just so so because they can hold in heat also... And don't forget to retorque your header bolts now as they have heated and expanded with the headers...…..
Thanks for taking the time to respond. Great information. I got the headers install done and loaded the remote tune from DynoSteve. Noticable gains with the butt dyno.
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Old 10-17-2018, 01:56 AM   #18
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Anyone looking for advice, I recommend DynaSteve. Call nim, its worth the effort.
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Old 10-17-2018, 01:57 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by pyroguy View Post
Forget the goop, use OEM gaskets they’re the best for headers.
Done and done. Thanks for the good advice!
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Old 10-17-2018, 10:58 AM   #20
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Looks great!! Am I going to regret not getting the insulated spark plug wire boots?
Yes. Order them up. Your wires will thank you
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Old 10-17-2018, 11:14 AM   #21
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I've found the Taylor 409 wires hold up great to the heat, but the protection sleeves are good insurance.
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Old 10-17-2018, 12:33 PM   #22
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Done and done. Thanks for the good advice!
Happy to answer any questions I can. I did my headers on jack stands in my garage with a little help from a friend because I couldn't cram my big hands in between the brake lines and headers to get the bolts started properly without potentially cross threading one.
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Old 10-17-2018, 01:04 PM   #23
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Thanks i got the heat insulators from a member with some wires but didnt like the fit of the wires plus wasnt to positive of a lock on the plug so dont buy vms racing wires buy the taylors do it right first time its cheaper. As for starter i wrapped my stock heat shield with dei cool tape probably wont do much but i figured why not
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Old 10-22-2018, 01:06 PM   #24
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Great advice. Thanks everyone!!
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