BMR Camaro Lower Control Arms - Time for some testing!!! - Page 3 - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

Erik@Torq · 04-20-2013, 08:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by musclecar70

hey guys just installed the bmr shortened rear control arms, trailing arms, and toe rods, and the lg g5 drop of 1.5 inches all around
i got new tires and alignment done

it handles terrible what might be the problem? it feels a bit wobbly and the traction control turns at safe speeds on turns, rear is slipping almost..feels unsafe and handles poorly...
any suggesiton on a potential issue?

What were the alignment specs?

Also, do you have adjustable swaybars? If so, what setting are they at?

/Erik

musclecar70 · 04-23-2013, 01:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Erik@Torq

What were the alignment specs?

Also, do you have adjustable swaybars? If so, what setting are they at?

/Erik

stock specs

yes i have the eibach sway bar connected with adjustable endlinks,and on the less aggressive hole slots

Agent 409 · 08-23-2016, 01:25 PM

Resurrecting a bit of an old thread here however I am a newer Camaro owner (about 1.5 years). I have a customized 2010 2SS. I currently have the pfadt racing rear "balance" sway bar and BMR adjustable end links (ELK006). What has happened now is the end link mounting tab on my OEM lower control arms has snapped from the stiffer setup. I see that BMR states this new lower control arm is a solution to this problem. Knowing the modifications I have and the fact that I want to maintain an OEM suspension geometry and ride will this new BMR control arm work for my needs? This is my daily driver so I'm not looking to track it or have a worse ride. Do I need the adjustable BMR control arm coupled with the adjustable toe rods since I have OEM ride height and want OEM geometry? Anyone's help is appreciated.

olblue75 · 08-23-2016, 01:43 PM

I'd say go with the lower adjustable control arm since you are not lowered. The adjustable arm gives you enough range for stock ride height. What size is your PFADT Bar you may want to change to the new factory arm with a 1LE rear sway bar. I did this with 1LE shocks and what a improvement. You may wanna stay factory due to the fact if you ever slam a curb for what ever reason the factory stuff will give and not tear up you cradle, if your tracking the car and not daily driving it then yes get all the cool BMR or DSE stuff.

Agent 409 · 08-23-2016, 01:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by olblue75

I'd say go with the lower adjustable control arm since you are not lowered. The adjustable arm gives you enough range for stock ride height. What size is your PFADT Bar you may want to change to the new factory arm with a 1LE rear sway bar. I did this with 1LE shocks and what a improvement. You may wanna stay factory due to the fact if you ever slam a curb for what ever reason the factory stuff will give and not tear up you cradle, if your tracking the car and not daily driving it then yes get all the cool BMR or DSE stuff.

good advice. here is my bar :

http://www.phastekperformance.com/20...alance-bar.htm

I will have to go measure it as I don't know the size this came in.

BMR Sales · 08-23-2016, 03:46 PM

The Adjustable Lower Control Arm will do the job, and if you are keeping it Factory ride height, you do not need an Adjustable Toe Rod. The Adjustable Toe Rod would come into play if you were lowered.

hesster · 08-24-2016, 07:48 AM

I went with all BMR stuff, and am very satisfied with how well it all performs. I felt the best approach was to do install everything - front and rear - to get a integrated suspension. I also installed BC-ER Coilovers, and lowered the car around an inch. I do not have adjustable LCA's, but still got -0.7 Rear Camber which is just fine for a street car. Only issue I had was I had to grind a slot in the LCA's to get clearance for the BC ER external reservoir hose. Car rides nice and the handling is exceptional.

JusticePete · 08-24-2016, 08:41 AM

Hester,

Why would you do all these upgrades and then use the old style short inboard mount rear sway bar?

hesster · 08-25-2016, 07:40 AM

JP - at the time I ordered all of this stuff (package discount) and installed it I did not know the advantage or real significance that an outboard mount would provide ("transforms the car") - and what specific components would fit a 2010 model. Saw a number of "interference" posts on this also with Coil Overs and DSSHOP axles. I see that my BMR LCA's have the outboard hole for mounting this? Please comment on the "improvement" significance and what would be gained by changing over to this, and what is required (just a new outboard sway bar and links, and not the LCA if my BMR LCA already has the outboard hole)?

I see on your web link that your Rear Sway Bar Product " The 2010 - 2011 Camaro includes GM Original Equipment Lower Rear Control Arms and Droplinks to install the JPSS outboard mount sway bar." AND - "JPSS 2010 to 2015 5th Gen Camaro Rear Sway Bar is the only sway bar that is designed to provide clearance for the remote reservoirs for coilovers made by BC."

JusticePete · 08-25-2016, 09:56 AM

The Z style outboard mount rear sway bar is far more efficient and effective than the original design inboard mount bar. Because it is close to the wheel it reacts more quickly. The drivin g result is a far more neutral 5th Gen. It feels as though the car lost a few hundred pounds. While you can still drive the car to find understeer, it is at much higher speeds. When th car rotates, it is controllable through throttle modulation.

All you need are the bar and two drop links with your current arms. Here is the deal. Buy the bar and arms. Install them and drive for a week on thee new setup. If you are not thrilled, keep the bar and I'll refund your money.

hesster · 08-25-2016, 10:30 AM

JP - appreciate the response. As you stated, all I need is the bar and drop links, since my BMR LCAs have the mounting provisions. So I don't really need OEM LCA's that come with your kit, and this would in turn possibly require another alignment, and maybe also interfere with the BC ER reservoir hoses. Not to mention a PIA to swap out the LCA's versus just a bar and link installation. Do you sell only the Bar and Drop links?

JusticePete · 08-25-2016, 10:59 AM

The bar is an easy drop in, no alignment required. The bar will clear the canisters, 100% certain. If you would like to do the upgrade pm me your phone number and we'll set you up with just the bar and drop links you need.

Cool?

BMR Sales · 08-25-2016, 11:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hesster

I see that my BMR LCA's have the outboard hole for mounting this?

Yes, our LCA's have the Outboard Hole for the later Bars & a reinforced Tab for the earlier ones

olblue75 · 08-25-2016, 02:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JusticePete

The Z style outboard mount rear sway bar is far more efficient and effective than the original design inboard mount bar. Because it is close to the wheel it reacts more quickly. The drivin g result is a far more neutral 5th Gen. It feels as though the car lost a few hundred pounds. While you can still drive the car to find understeer, it is at much higher speeds. When th car rotates, it is controllable through throttle modulation.

All you need are the bar and two drop links with your current arms. Here is the deal. Buy the bar and arms. Install them and drive for a week on thee new setup. If you are not thrilled, keep the bar and I'll refund your money.

Holy crap now if that ain't confidence in your product I don't know what is!!!

08-23-2016, 01:25 PM	#31
Agent 409 Drives: 2010 Camaro SS Join Date: May 2014 Location: Arizona Posts: 67	Resurrecting a bit of an old thread here however I am a newer Camaro owner (about 1.5 years). I have a customized 2010 2SS. I currently have the pfadt racing rear "balance" sway bar and BMR adjustable end links (ELK006). What has happened now is the end link mounting tab on my OEM lower control arms has snapped from the stiffer setup. I see that BMR states this new lower control arm is a solution to this problem. Knowing the modifications I have and the fact that I want to maintain an OEM suspension geometry and ride will this new BMR control arm work for my needs? This is my daily driver so I'm not looking to track it or have a worse ride. Do I need the adjustable BMR control arm coupled with the adjustable toe rods since I have OEM ride height and want OEM geometry? Anyone's help is appreciated. __________________ L99 - 440 RWHP Livernois 2c Cam & VVT/DOD Delete Roto-Fab Intake Stainless Works 1 7/8" Long Tube Headers Corsa Exhaust black LED sequential tail lights

08-23-2016, 01:43 PM	#32
olblue75 Drives: 2010 2SS/RS Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Clarksville Tennesse. Posts: 6,062	I'd say go with the lower adjustable control arm since you are not lowered. The adjustable arm gives you enough range for stock ride height. What size is your PFADT Bar you may want to change to the new factory arm with a 1LE rear sway bar. I did this with 1LE shocks and what a improvement. You may wanna stay factory due to the fact if you ever slam a curb for what ever reason the factory stuff will give and not tear up you cradle, if your tracking the car and not daily driving it then yes get all the cool BMR or DSE stuff. __________________ Orange Krush II 1LE Front sway bar, Splitter, shocks and struts, Z28 dual mode mufflers, Intake, UCA Bushings, and Toresen 3.91 Diff. 1 piece DSS Drive Shaft, ZL1/C7 Calipers, and 32mm JPSS Rear Bar. ASC race spec splitter and wicker. 6th Gen M017 Wheels. Stainless Works 1 7/8 LTs. DSE and PAFDT Suspension components.

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08-23-2016, 03:46 PM	#34
BMR Sales Drives: Race Car Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Seffner, FL Posts: 6,226	The Adjustable Lower Control Arm will do the job, and if you are keeping it Factory ride height, you do not need an Adjustable Toe Rod. The Adjustable Toe Rod would come into play if you were lowered.

08-24-2016, 07:48 AM	#35
hesster Drives: '10 C5 SS, '77 Bandit T/A Join Date: Dec 2015 Location: Michigan Posts: 631 View My Garage	I went with all BMR stuff, and am very satisfied with how well it all performs. I felt the best approach was to do install everything - front and rear - to get a integrated suspension. I also installed BC-ER Coilovers, and lowered the car around an inch. I do not have adjustable LCA's, but still got -0.7 Rear Camber which is just fine for a street car. Only issue I had was I had to grind a slot in the LCA's to get clearance for the BC ER external reservoir hose. Car rides nice and the handling is exceptional.

08-24-2016, 08:41 AM	#36
JusticePete Drives: Camaro Justice Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Virginia Posts: 20,174	Hester, Why would you do all these upgrades and then use the old style short inboard mount rear sway bar?

08-25-2016, 07:40 AM	#37
hesster Drives: '10 C5 SS, '77 Bandit T/A Join Date: Dec 2015 Location: Michigan Posts: 631 View My Garage	JP - at the time I ordered all of this stuff (package discount) and installed it I did not know the advantage or real significance that an outboard mount would provide ("transforms the car") - and what specific components would fit a 2010 model. Saw a number of "interference" posts on this also with Coil Overs and DSSHOP axles. I see that my BMR LCA's have the outboard hole for mounting this? Please comment on the "improvement" significance and what would be gained by changing over to this, and what is required (just a new outboard sway bar and links, and not the LCA if my BMR LCA already has the outboard hole)? I see on your web link that your Rear Sway Bar Product " The 2010 - 2011 Camaro includes GM Original Equipment Lower Rear Control Arms and Droplinks to install the JPSS outboard mount sway bar." AND - "JPSS 2010 to 2015 5th Gen Camaro Rear Sway Bar is the only sway bar that is designed to provide clearance for the remote reservoirs for coilovers made by BC."

08-25-2016, 09:56 AM	#38
JusticePete Drives: Camaro Justice Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Virginia Posts: 20,174	The Z style outboard mount rear sway bar is far more efficient and effective than the original design inboard mount bar. Because it is close to the wheel it reacts more quickly. The drivin g result is a far more neutral 5th Gen. It feels as though the car lost a few hundred pounds. While you can still drive the car to find understeer, it is at much higher speeds. When th car rotates, it is controllable through throttle modulation. All you need are the bar and two drop links with your current arms. Here is the deal. Buy the bar and arms. Install them and drive for a week on thee new setup. If you are not thrilled, keep the bar and I'll refund your money.

08-25-2016, 10:30 AM	#39
hesster Drives: '10 C5 SS, '77 Bandit T/A Join Date: Dec 2015 Location: Michigan Posts: 631 View My Garage	JP - appreciate the response. As you stated, all I need is the bar and drop links, since my BMR LCAs have the mounting provisions. So I don't really need OEM LCA's that come with your kit, and this would in turn possibly require another alignment, and maybe also interfere with the BC ER reservoir hoses. Not to mention a PIA to swap out the LCA's versus just a bar and link installation. Do you sell only the Bar and Drop links?

08-25-2016, 10:59 AM	#40
JusticePete Drives: Camaro Justice Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Virginia Posts: 20,174	The bar is an easy drop in, no alignment required. The bar will clear the canisters, 100% certain. If you would like to do the upgrade pm me your phone number and we'll set you up with just the bar and drop links you need. Cool?