NEED HELP

[CAM....ZL1]

I am getting a code P023A, that is the inter cooler pump and it is not running. I can not locate the fuse or relay to test/check it. Tech at dealer gave me a print out of the relay labeled KR18 but it's not there and I do not see one foot the inter cooler pump. Does anyone know where I can find it? Thank You in advance

[JB'sZL1]

The fuse is the #3 minifuse in the engine bay and the relay is K641 under the steering column.

[CAM....ZL1]

Originally Posted by JB'sZL1

The fuse is the #3 minifuse in the engine bay and the relay is K641 under the steering column.

This is incorrect info. The relay is in the fuse block under the hood with 8430 and part# 13500113 stamped on it.

Thanks anyway.

[JB'sZL1]

Originally Posted by CAM....ZL1

This is incorrect info. The relay is in the fuse block under the hood with 8430 and part# 13500113 stamped on it.

Thanks anyway.

You're welcome.

jfyi: That info is directly from the manual.

[CAM....ZL1]

Still can't figure out whats going on, replaced the relay, and fuse 8 keeps blowing after about 30 minutes of driving. there are two fuses and a relay for the intercooler pump, #3 and #8. I'm wondering if the pump itself is the problem. The dealer tech went thru the schematics and found the second fuse, I have replaced it 5 times in five days. I guess will have to go thru the circuit test protocol. Anyone have any ideas or similar problems?

[spadz93]

Sounds like you're in the market for a new pump. Probably a short inside of it

[SamHouseIII]

Check for pinched wiring around/going to the pump. If it's blowing fuses, sounds like a dead short.

[JB'sZL1]

Yes. You obviously have a short if you keep blowing fuses. Check connections and wires and post back.

[silversleeper]

The pump iirc is a chevy volt cooling pump, cheap. I'd replace it before I did any further in depth stuff besides visually looking for a pinch / short.

[CAM....ZL1]

I have already checked the wiring, it all looks factory new. I don't think it's a direct short because it runs for some time before it blows, usually after the car warms to temp. Sometimes a hour sometimes thirty minutes. The Chevy tech and myself think it's the pump. I guess I'll buy a new one and find out. If it's not I'll have a spare.

[beersngars]

Originally Posted by CAM....ZL1

I have already checked the wiring, it all looks factory new. I don't think it's a direct short because it runs for some time before it blows, usually after the car warms to temp. Sometimes a hour sometimes thirty minutes. The Chevy tech and myself think it's the pump. I guess I'll buy a new one and find out. If it's not I'll have a spare.

I think you are on the right track. A short would take the fuse out instantly. A pump on its way out could have a higher current draw. I'm sure there is a test/spec that would confirm that thinking.

[CAM....ZL1]

Hopefully someone on here knows enough about the ic pump to help. I am still blowing fuse #8, it powers the pump relay. #3 goes directly to pump. Both fuses will disable it. Dealership nor myself can figure this out. Dealer called GM tech support and they said if #8 fuse blows it is a problem in the fuse block between 8 fuse and the pump relay with the circuit board. I ordered a new fuse block 300.00 replaced it and it is still blowing fuses. Ordered a new pump 250.00 replaced it still blowing fuses. It only blows after car gets to temp or about 30 minutes before it goes. Could the ecm cause this? We have checked every connection. There is a circuit protacall to follow to check it all, but I'm not sure it would do and good, because if I put a new fuse in it it would idle all day and not blow. It seems to do it when boost goes up, but if it's really hot outside it will just blow when temps under hood go up.

Thanks

[ZMEnow]

Originally Posted by CAM....ZL1

Hopefully someone on here knows enough about the ic pump to help. I am still blowing fuse #8, it powers the pump relay. #3 goes directly to pump. Both fuses will disable it. Dealership nor myself can figure this out. Dealer called GM tech support and they said if #8 fuse blows it is a problem in the fuse block between 8 fuse and the pump relay with the circuit board. I ordered a new fuse block 300.00 replaced it and it is still blowing fuses. Ordered a new pump 250.00 replaced it still blowing fuses. It only blows after car gets to temp or about 30 minutes before it goes. Could the ecm cause this? We have checked every connection. There is a circuit protacall to follow to check it all, but I'm not sure it would do and good, because if I put a new fuse in it it would idle all day and not blow. It seems to do it when boost goes up, but if it's really hot outside it will just blow when temps under hood go up.

Thanks

First I did not go back and read the whole thread, in a hurry. But if it doesn't blow at idle and only when you drive it plus 30 mins, then heat is or excessive current is getting generated to blow the fuse. The only thing that would increase the voltage to the pump beyond idle is the Fuel Pump Control Module. I assume you are stock and no BAP. There are some test for the FPCM but I am not in front of the doc's

[beersngars]

Originally Posted by ZMEnow

First I did not go back and read the whole thread, in a hurry. But if it doesn't blow at idle and only when you drive it plus 30 mins, then heat is or excessive current is getting generated to blow the fuse. The only thing that would increase the voltage to the pump beyond idle is the Fuel Pump Control Module. I assume you are stock and no BAP. There are some test for the FPCM but I am not in front of the doc's

It's the intercooler pump, not the fuel pump.