Configuring new suspension setup for my SS

[dma05]

Since you can no longer purchase the 2014 1LE Suspension Kit, I decided to take the parts I could find and order them separately and add aftermarket parts for the ones that GM discontinued.

I would love for your thoughts, opinions, or other ideas on this list I put together. My car is only driven ever 2-3 weeks. It's a street car that is supercharged and puts down 650hp. I don't race it, but I want to know that I can keep the power on the ground without going off the road.


Here it is (all GM parts are 1LE):

GM Front Strut [driver side] (22812984) $85
GM Front Strut [passenger side] (22812985) $85
GM Front Sway End Link [passenger side] (22842515) $30
GM Front Sway End Link [drivers side] (22842516) $30
GM Rear Shock Mount [passenger side upper] (22922446) $30
GM Rear Shock Mount [driver side upper] (22922445) $30
GM Rear Shocks x2 (23115372) $200 each
GM Rear Sway Bar Endlink x2 (22761221) $16 each
GM Rear Toe Link x2 (22845487) $67 each
GM Nut-FRT STAB HYD SHF Link x2 (11516078) $5 each
GM Nut-FRT SUSP Strut MT x2 (11569638) $6 each
GM Nut-RR S/ABS [UPR] x2 (11516078) $5 each
GM 1LE Rear Lower Control Arm Kit (23484878) $85
GM 1LE Front Wheel Hubs x2 (22924741) $240 each
GM 1LE Rear Wheel Hubs x2 (22924740) $122 each

Pedders SportsRyder Sway Bar Kit (PED-814095) $500
Pedders SportsRyder Spring Kit (PED-804002) $300

Hendrix Solid Rear HE-X Cradle Bushings $400
Hendrix Offset Differential Bushings $160


Thanks,
Allen

[hesster]

Looks like a good approach with those parts. I have a 2010 SS, so our cars are basically identical. I went with Coil Overs and BMR stuff. Don't forget to replace the critical fasteners - you can reuse the existing at your own risk.
No Bushing upgrades other than the Cradle Bushings? The Diff Bushings are a PIA and I didn't bother with them.
Maybe most of this documentation can help if you are doing the work - Ref the PDF attachment.

[dma05]

Originally Posted by hesster

Looks like a good approach with those parts. I have a 2010 SS, so our cars are basically identical. I went with Coil Overs and BMR stuff. Don't forget to replace the critical fasteners - you can reuse the existing at your own risk.
No Bushing upgrades other than the Cradle Bushings? The Diff Bushings are a PIA and I didn't bother with them.
Maybe most of this documentation can help if you are doing the work - Ref the PDF attachment.

I always replace bolts that are one time use. That spreadsheet really helped and I will be ordering the extra hardware.

What other bushing upgrades do you recommend? I’m new to suspension parts, so il doing as much research as possible.

Thanks

[KillboyPowerhead]

The front radius rod (curved arm) has inserts to fill in the gaps - not sure if anyone still makes inserts but some nylon/delrin/aluminum inserts to replace the soft factory rubber ones will make a noticeable difference when braking hard by reducing wheel/toe movement. Another option would be to replace the whole bushing (I have inserts from JPSS who isn't around anymore).

The rear upper control arm was significantly improved with the Z/28 model - again not sure if these are available anymore (got mine from my dealer) but I know some companies like BMR make replacements - not sure how they compare to the factory Z/28 ones but I suspect as long as they're solid (factory one has voids) it should be an improvement.

The rear trailing arm bushings were also updated for the Z/28, helping reduce dynamic toe changes while accelerating. The outer bushing in the knuckle will require pressing it out.

[dma05]

Originally Posted by KillboyPowerhead

The front radius rod (curved arm) has inserts to fill in the gaps - not sure if anyone still makes inserts but some nylon/delrin/aluminum inserts to replace the soft factory rubber ones will make a noticeable difference when braking hard by reducing wheel/toe movement. Another option would be to replace the whole bushing (I have inserts from JPSS who isn't around anymore).

The rear upper control arm was significantly improved with the Z/28 model - again not sure if these are available anymore (got mine from my dealer) but I know some companies like BMR make replacements - not sure how they compare to the factory Z/28 ones but I suspect as long as they're solid (factory one has voids) it should be an improvement.

The rear trailing arm bushings were also updated for the Z/28, helping reduce dynamic toe changes while accelerating. The outer bushing in the knuckle will require pressing it out.

Do you mean to get a whole new Z28 Upper Control Arm or just bushings to put into my existing Upper Control Arm?


It looks like it would be easier to just replace the whole Rear Trailing Arm since it comes with the bushing. This way I don't have to push out the old bushing. New arms for $45 each seems like a better idea. Thoughts?


thanks

[dma05]

Unfortunately one of the rear 1LE shock mounts is discontinued. Can I go with a Z28 (FEA) shock mount and still use the 1LE (FE6) shock/strut with it?


Part numbers I found for the Z28 shock mounts are 22836727 / 22836734



thanks

[dma05]

Well, as I dive into this more, I'm finding that most of the major 1LE parts are discontinued. SO, I have decided to go Pedders Coilovers and Z28 shock mounts on the rears.


Since I'm changing the rear mounts to the Z28 ones, anything I should change in the front?



thanks

[dma05]

I'm up WAY TOO LATE (2:15am) and I am just reading about way too much on suspension. Now I found out about RideTech coilovers..... WOW!



I keep updating here cause I'm hoping someone can help me decide what is best. But I'm really liking what I read about the RideTech stuff.


thanks for listening

[KillboyPowerhead]

No fitment issues going with the Z/28 shock mounts, just keep in mind that the bushing is stiffer and, therefore, there will be more stress on the shock shaft due to less compliance (I've had the Z/28 mounts for 35,000km/20,000 miles with no issues).

The upper control arm bushing I refer to is a separate bushing that you buy individually; it's the rear-most bushing (labeled as C here: https://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=245702).

The trailing arm comes with the inner bushing, but the factory outer (in the knuckle) only comes with the knuckle, so you'd have to buy the whole knuckle to get the factory one (when buying the arm it just has one bushing, and an opening for the connection at the knuckle). Believe BMR and others make replacements, but you'll still need to press out the old bushing/press in the new.

[hesster]

You are spot on in doing thorough research on Suspension Options, what parts to use, and what approach to take before you start purchasing anything.
Whatever you do, it should be a integrated compilation of components that work together well. Not to say you can't do suspension upgrades in stages, but you want to avoid any re-do's.

You may get endless opinions on what to use and how to do installation, but there are many great "Member Car Journals" in this forum to use as reference and learn from. That is exactly what I did 7 years ago - researched various members builds and vendors parts before I did my build. I decided to do a pretty thorough documentation on my build with a good deal of pics showing build details.

Other than a rear sway bar change to go to FE4, I did it all at once.

So for what it is worth, here is my build example that may help you on your "Mod" journey
Never hesitate to ask for help.

https://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=442230

[SS 310H55A]

Originally Posted by dma05

I always replace bolts that are one time use. That spreadsheet really helped and I will be ordering the extra hardware.

What other bushing upgrades do you recommend? I’m new to suspension parts, so il doing as much research as possible.

Thanks

The suspension bolts use angular torque but they are not TTY.

[hesster]

Correct SS - never corrected that file’s header. Torque and angle. You can buy a simple T&A tool, but I found it wouldn’t fit in some tight areas, and it is a PIA to use. So a simple alternative is to torque to specs, then mark the bolt head, then mark the mating surface CW the number of required degrees, and tighten until the marks align.

[dma05]

Originally Posted by hesster

You are spot on in doing thorough research on Suspension Options, what parts to use, and what approach to take before you start purchasing anything.
Whatever you do, it should be a integrated compilation of components that work together well. Not to say you can't do suspension upgrades in stages, but you want to avoid any re-do's.

You may get endless opinions on what to use and how to do installation, but there are many great "Member Car Journals" in this forum to use as reference and learn from. That is exactly what I did 7 years ago - researched various members builds and vendors parts before I did my build. I decided to do a pretty thorough documentation on my build with a good deal of pics showing build details.

Other than a rear sway bar change to go to FE4, I did it all at once.

So for what it is worth, here is my build example that may help you on your "Mod" journey
Never hesitate to ask for help.

https://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=442230

Thanks Hesster! I was actually reading through your thread when I first started my research. You have a great setup.

I bought all the GM 1LE and Z28 parts I will need. Wanted to get them before more parts are discontinued. Next up is to buy the RideTech HQ Coil Overs and new GM bolts/nuts.

[dma05]

Originally Posted by hesster

Correct SS - never corrected that file’s header. Torque and angle. You can buy a simple T&A tool, but I found it wouldn’t fit in some tight areas, and it is a PIA to use. So a simple alternative is to torque to specs, then mark the bolt head, then mark the mating surface CW the number of required degrees, and tighten until the marks align.

I have a couple of digital torque wrenches that all do degrees. Makes it much easier