QUICRNU Build -LSA BTR YANK Supercars etc...

[QUICRNU]

Nice Video, right lane left hard!

I agree, I think it would be hard not to run 10s....but it seems my camaro was a bit slower than average before I started the build.... so I am just trying to keep my expectations in check.

Thanks for reading.....Im hoping to get the thread up to real time this week....but I slacked on taking pictures!

[pyroguy]

Are you going to leave the suitcase mufflers on after the upgrades? Shaving all that weight could save you a tenth or two at the track with some aftermarket mufflers or a muffler delete.

[QUICRNU]

After carrying this beast of a system through my backyard, I certainly agree.....right now the plan is to hear the thing run and make sure the Mrs. doesn't freak out......quiet when I want to be is very important....to both of us really.....Im really only obnoxious like 70% of the time myself...so would like to have my car be able to match the other 30% too!

Haha!

I will keep you updated.....

[QUICRNU]

[SIZE="4"]SO.... to continue with the accessory drive issues..... the SS has a Power Steering cooler built into the bottom of the A/C condenser, I purchased a Heat Transfer Power Steering Cooler, really just to maintain higher capacity and figured it should do the trick for the driving I will do, I will certainly update the thread if I boil my PS fluid in the future.... This is about 17 inches long. (Update, it works great at keeping proper PS temps)

Alot of this is mach up.... but I want to run and test drive the car, so I used alot of Hose barb connectors throughout, hopefully I wont have any issues, but I can always upgrade to ANs fittings in the future.

I also used the Heavy Duty Fuel Injector Hose with around a 220PSI rating...

I had 2 real options for where to mount it, I could tuck it under in front of the radiator, it would have had the most cooling Air here, but remembering it is not a pass through cooler and the air would be disrupted by it....also my Trans Cooler will mount in the lower grill of the bumper, which would cover this cooler and make me have to remove the trans cooler in order to service or tighten the fittings on the PS cooler, I didn't like that.

So I mounted it to the Front subframe cross member. Just low enough to catch some clean air off the ground but also high enough not to have any potential to bottom out. A rock could still hit it but it would have to be a near perfect bounce.

I am not sure of how hot PS fluid gets, and if this was even needed at all, but having one felt better....and it was cheap... if It boils I will upgrade.














Attachment 858618

[Silver14]

Nice work on the supercharger. I'm usually not a fan of stripes but I really like them on your car.

[QUICRNU]

something about the ABM with White Stripes.... also I normally prefer black rims...but chrome was a no brainer on the ABM too...

[QUICRNU]

Oh, I also took this time to put in the ADM FPCM...... this was super quick to do. I was able to pop the side panels loose at the door jamb and slide my hand in to remove the 1 10mm nut..... the Stock FPCM is held in with a piece of plastic that slides behind the body panel on 1 side, and then a stud post that the other side goes over to be bolted down. Don't waist your time taking the seats out.....just be cautious of Airbag locations and don't OVER pull on the panel to make room......

[QUICRNU]

Yuck, that seat needs cleaned!

[QUICRNU]

Transmission Cooler Time!

I was limited on space, I am still not 100% this is going to fit behind the bumper perfectly, but I can trim things as needed and add a spacer to move it back. For now I wanted to get it on the car so I can get this girl fired off!

I ended up going with the TRU COOl MAX LPD49211 with a 30k GVW and 34k BTU. Given some of the proven B&M coolers quote 25k ish BTU ratings, I am hopeful this will do the trick. (This is the No Bypass version, If I need 1 I can add an external bypass later.) Plus I am only running spirited through the mountains or an occasional Drag Pass, I have to believe this will be adequate, but I will hopefully get a chance to report on that later!


Drilled 2 holes on the back side of the bumper support for self tapping screws to hold the bracket, then the bolts you see are bolted to the bracket for easier removal. This way I can still remove either or without draining the other system to get to one of them. On the other side I just have the 3/8's hose over the stock hard line nipples for now with hose clamps for now.










I did relocate this sensor. Nothing Fancy, just a hole and a self tapping screw.

Attachment 860349

[John_C]

Originally Posted by QUICRNU

So I had been working with a custom exhaust shop to get some S/C friendly CATS. I had sent over the measurements, but got a call the other day that they couldn't make them short enough. I would argue it was a lack of creativity, but the dilemma remained, Obviously near 600rwhp hates Cats, even High Flow Cats, and since I will have my $950 NOWEEDS behind them (worth every penny btw, stay tuned)

I would hate for cat screen to break loose, get stuck in my No Weeds and break them on top of possibly the other stuff.... HUGE RISK.....

Since my system bolts up to stock locations and I am running Factory Cat Back.... I needed to have exact dimensions on my 2-bolt flange Kooks High Flow Cats and I didn't want to gut my beautiful Low mileage cats as I plan to run them for casual driving and trips thru less friendly emissions states, well as luck would have it, I found a guy on here selling my exact cats, not in as good of condition and a super price.

This way I can RUN legal on street, and Run safe when I plan to have more fun at the track! (read between the lines here on a public forum)

So I used my Press to gut the cats center section and then used needle nose pliers to "Unravel" the rest on the sides. Don't try to beat the whole section out, it will kick your @ss. Simply grab a thin layer and twist so it will spin out then cut it and spin some more. It takes a little patience, but hardly any effort at all. I don't have pictures of this, I forgot.

SO now I have Identical sets of Cats from the outside and 1 set S/C friendly on the inside.

I am debating adding a pass thru pipe, so the chamber doesn't expand, sometimes that causes Raspy exhaust, so we will see later on once I can test it. But basically, it will be like running straight headers turned down under the front seats when NOWEEDS are open, and then extremely quiet for a Cammed No Cat Camaro when closed!! Excited!!!


Attachment 860354

Attachment 860355

Attachment 860356

Attachment 860357

Attachment 860358

Attachment 860359

Attachment 860360

Nice! Gutted cats for the win! I want video of the sound when you get a chance!

[QUICRNU]

Originally Posted by John_C

Nice! Gutted cats for the win! I want video of the sound when you get a chance!

I just need to find a camera that will record that Decibel level!

[QUICRNU]

SO I need to remember to take more step by step pictures, I get excited and get going and then forget! But here are some shots of the NOWEEDS Install.

You drill a small hole in the Trans Tunnel just behind where the shifter linkage is on the L99. Then run the wires under the carpet to come out of the same hole for the seat.

The switch is mounted and wired on the front of the seat, It is recommended to remove the seat for this and I agree, you don't want to be banging around on your interior to get this put in.

Underneath you cut the S pipes out, and with the clamps, you can easily remove the NOWEEDS and put the S Pipes back in, so cut carefully and nice and straight. It takes some patince getting everything lined up, clearing and secure. I had to put everything slipped together on both side and then laying under the car I pushed the Catback towards the rear with my feet and slide the cats up on the header ball connections and voila. It fit.

The next Hour was my OCD lining everything up perfectly. Use a jack on the exhaust to hold the angles you need.

Gave a shot of them closed and then open.

Also installed my shifter while I was in there........for now at least, hoping Hurst will make the Auto Stick again!

[QUICRNU]

I got the new style RotoFab washer bottle, I am going to run my reservoir for the I/C where the old one was.... (temp. mounted the tiny reservoir for I/C)

This was easy install, just be careful putting it past the Brake Fluid reservoir nipple, but this was a FANTASTIC use of space over there... very happy as I now still have room to mount some coil relocation brackets on the inner fender if I decide to in the future and I can run a bigger reservoir right behind the ADM CAI Intake!.










Just a few shots buttoning up some of the wiring, relocated where the ground strap went to go under the dipstick tube bracket. I will come back and try to make things more pretty later.... but.... we are very close to start up!!!!.....

[QUICRNU]

I decided to pull the pan to replace the oil pump, this would ensure no mishaps with the Oring.

Ordered the Melling 10296 since I am going to run an external oil cooler, I can use the added pressure. As a point of reference, the oil pump I took off is in perfect working condition and in fact flows 12-13% more volume than the 10296 I ordered... but since I deleted VVT and DOD..... I don't need the extra volume. Also I have read enough post about the factory oil pump, was a no brainer to go ahead and do it.

I decided to go ahead and order a new OEM Oil Pickup tube too. And ordered all new gaskets and seals, why risk a leak for 60bux.







You can see it was a much easier job to put the oil pickup tube/O-ring in with the oil pan off. Put it in by hand, then put the bolt in to be sure I had it seated correctly this time!!!!! Used assembly lube on the oring too.







I also took this opportunity to replace the oil pan gasket, as it turns out mine had the infamous leak from the factory but it was minor.... so another "Might as well why I am here" thing.