02-16-2019, 12:42 AM | #1 |
Drives: 2013 Camaro 2SS Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Tallahassee, Florida
Posts: 19
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About to do a heater core flush. Need guidance
I just bought a 2013 2SS 6M and the heater started blowing cool a few days ago. Checked all fuses and relays. Next step is to try a core flush. Need to know which hose from the water pump is heater core inlet. Also, would greatly appreciate any advice on anything I need to be aware of with this model.
Thanks in advance for your time and help. |
02-16-2019, 02:04 AM | #2 | |
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2013 VR Camaro 2SS/RS LS3
Small, but effective mod list: Roto-Fab Intake, TSP 2" Long tubes, TSP catless mids, MSD spark plug wires, stock catback, Elite Catch Can, APEX washer relocation and scoop, VMAX throttle body, Diablo InTune-Tuned by Matt@FSP, and a JacFab license plate bracket. |
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02-16-2019, 08:58 AM | #3 |
Drives: 2010 Inferno Orange 2SS/RS Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Clermont, IN
Posts: 3,297
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Have you checked coolant level also?
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2010 Inferno Orange 2SS/RS M6 Black Leather, Sun Roof, OBX Headers, Borla touring axle back, Cold Air Inductions CAI , non synthetic fluids, BMR total bushing upgrade/1" lowering springs, DSE 32mm rear sway bar. GM fe4 shocks/struts/LCA's, AAM 3.91 diff, Vertini RFS1.8 20x9 +30. Conti ExtremeContact Sport 275/35/20. sjm autoprod ABL dash kit. Mike Norris tuned 413/419.
Avenging Orange: 43 years of not buying into the Hype........and damn proud of it!! https://youtu.be/9JD9it6SmB8 https://youtu.be/xmelTlEzI34 KICKING CANCERS ASS SINCE 2015!! |
02-16-2019, 04:01 PM | #4 |
Drives: 2013 Camaro 2SS Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Tallahassee, Florida
Posts: 19
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Coolant level is good. Blend door is good. Checked hoses from water pump. Rear hose is firm and hot, showing good flow. Front hose is very soft and warm at best. Seems the easy first step is a core flush to try resolving the problem easily and cheap.
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02-16-2019, 04:36 PM | #5 |
Drives: 2011ss/rs camaro Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: florida
Posts: 1,261
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The blend door is actually the flow valve that controls on ....water passes thru heater core,fan forces air over core. We have heat. And off...no water flows thru heater core. This is correct ?
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02-16-2019, 09:53 PM | #6 |
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If your heater core is plugged one hose would be hot and one wouldn’t be so hot. The hottest one would be your inlet.
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2013 VR Camaro 2SS/RS LS3
Small, but effective mod list: Roto-Fab Intake, TSP 2" Long tubes, TSP catless mids, MSD spark plug wires, stock catback, Elite Catch Can, APEX washer relocation and scoop, VMAX throttle body, Diablo InTune-Tuned by Matt@FSP, and a JacFab license plate bracket. |
02-17-2019, 06:10 PM | #7 |
Drives: '15 SS 1LE, '69 Z28 drag car Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Mich
Posts: 4,482
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Was there a ton of crud under the radiator cap? If not, I doubt the heater core is plugged. Just about everything floats in Dexcool, and when they gunk up from lack of maintenance, it is most prevalant under the radiator cap.
What is your engine temp running? Someone may have put a 160 t stat in it and it'll take a long time to get much temp into it. I would also try to burp any air pockets out. Start engine cold with rad cap off, hold at about 1500 rpms for a few minutes while a helper tops off the radiator and watches the flow. If it flows like crazy right away, the t stat is stuck open. It should take maybe 5 mins +/_ a few of not much movement in the radiator, then it start rushing when the t-stat opens. Holding the RPMs up a bit on a cold start with the rad cap off is a good way to burp any trapped air out. You need the water pump speed to push any air pockets out. |
02-18-2019, 07:18 AM | #8 | |
Drives: 2010 Camaro SS/RS Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: somewhere in MD
Posts: 4,883
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2010 2SS/RS
Z/28 intake, NW, FAST 102, speed engineering LT's, some exhaust, ATI -10% pulley, GM flex fuel injectors, DSX flex fuel sensor, MGW shifter, HP Tuners, some suspension work, stickers and a little weight loss. 12.63 @113.53 |
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02-18-2019, 08:10 AM | #9 | |
Drives: 2013 Camaro 2SS Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Tallahassee, Florida
Posts: 19
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A little crud under the cap and on the coolant dipstick. Not a 160° thermostat. Live in Florida and temp runs around 190_200. Fan doesn't run excessively. Looked under dash and can see blend door actuator move when I turn temp knob. Car has 51k miles, so good time to do a coolant flush/replacement anyway. |
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02-18-2019, 05:02 PM | #10 | |
376 cubic inches of fun
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Some people assume that filling the surge tank is all they need to do, but in fact, you may have a low level in the radiator. You have to take off the radiator cap (when cold) and check the level. If low, leave the cap off and run the engine until the thermostat opens. Then keep adding coolant to achieve the correct level in the radiator. |
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02-18-2019, 05:24 PM | #11 |
Donkey Dick Cam Camaro
Drives: 2010 2SS/RS LS3 M6 Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Posts: 1,998
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hopefully for your sake its not the blend door
my car throws kinda warm air when the heater is on at the highest heat setting and kinda cold air when the AC is at max......blend door. Ugh. $1700 to repair. Its going in next month
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02-18-2019, 08:49 PM | #12 | |
Drives: Miss Con Ception Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Chicagoland
Posts: 2,998
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On my old work trucks ('70-80s) with no A/C I put a manual shut-off valve in the feed line. Close it in the spring, open it in the fall. If they are still operated by vacuum it may be a leak or kink in the line.
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2011 1SS/RS LS3 CGM
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