2011 3.6 Keeps Overheating - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

WilliamGray · 06-10-2018, 04:34 PM

Background: One day my car suddenly shot up in temperature and Idle Engine warning came on so I immediately pulled over and shut the engine off. Come to find out I was out of coolant, bone dry. So after putting in more everything was fine.

After a week I checked the coolant level again to find out it had dropped, so after investigating I found it was leaking around the T-stat housing. I ordered a whole new thermostat housing assembly and while that was coming in, flushed my radiator with a cleaner. I drove to work with the cleaner still in the system with some water (which said was normal to do), and on my way to work it got hot again, overheated, and I had to limp it to work. At work I put more water into the system and made it home without overheating again.

Next day I flushed the cleaner and rinsed it out again, then replaced my T-stat housing and put new coolant in. But now it is still overheating. Whenever I try to bleed out the coolant for air it starts coming out all together. I believe the system isn't flowing right and is just allowing the engine to heat up. The water is just not flowing the way it should be.

I don't know if it is the new T-stat that is not opening up (which is brand new GM part) (Also terrible to get to on back of the engine) or if the water pump needs replaced. I am stumped and any help would be greatly appreciated!

WilliamGray · 06-10-2018, 06:57 PM

So i put a new water pump on, put more coolant in and bled it out for awhile. The coolant is definetley circulating more than it had been. But it is still overheating, getting up to 235 when i drove it just a very short distance. Before i test drove it, it stayed pretty steady at 205-207 degree F.

Im lost😂

gringo · 06-11-2018, 04:47 AM

Is the electric fan turning on?

WilliamGray · 06-11-2018, 07:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gringo

Is the electric fan turning on?

Yes it is, which is another reason why I don’t understand why its overheating

Avenging Orange · 06-11-2018, 03:25 PM

I know you replaced the housing...but did you replace the t-stat as well?

WilliamGray · 06-11-2018, 03:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Avenging Orange

I know you replaced the housing...but did you replace the t-stat as well?

The housing came with a new thermostat already installed

Elite Engineering · 06-11-2018, 04:37 PM

The process to bleed out air pockets is difficult and time consuming on these, but if you have run real hot you may have warped a head.

First, with engine cold remove upper radiator hose and full as full as possible from it (just one end). Then fill coolant reservoir to the very top, nit the full mark. Watch with cap off and it will settle and add more (make sure you do not go over 50/50 mix on antifreeze! The more antifreeze, the less effective heat transfer) each time. Then once it is no longer going down, you want to start and let warm up with cap off coolant tank. Turn off and replace cap and let cool. This will pull in more coolant as air pockets "burp" out. Open reservoir and fill again and repeat. But, you may have a head gasket issue if it has gotten too hot.

Good luck!

WilliamGray · 06-11-2018, 08:46 PM

Thanks for the advice!

After some more bleeding air out its acting normal now. The coolant temp stays between 198-205 when driving (which seems normal?) sometimes when its just idling it will go up to 207-208 but will eventually come back to 205.

I was wondering if there were any aftermarket mods I could get to improve cooling the coolant/engine? But other than that, i think she’s back to normal��

WilliamGray · 06-11-2018, 08:49 PM

Also after idling, I turned the engine off and watched the temp, it climbed to 216. Im guessing after you shut it off the coolant isnt flowing at all and allows it to climb up? Is this normal?

hammdo · 06-11-2018, 09:11 PM

Elevate the front, take the cap off (after the car cools down). Leave it sit for a while.

Then turn the heater on, start the car being carful to watch the flow. When the tstat opens, fill as needed. BE CARFUL as when it starts warming up, she can burp back. You may need to do this several times.

If you don’t have a vacuum filler, this is the way to do it. I also squeeze the radiator hoses to burp (while it’s not too hot — wear leather gloves to be safe)...

-Don

gringo · 06-12-2018, 06:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Elite Engineering

The process to bleed out air pockets is difficult and time consuming on these, but if you have run real hot you may have warped a head.

First, with engine cold remove upper radiator hose and full as full as possible from it (just one end). Then fill coolant reservoir to the very top, nit the full mark. Watch with cap off and it will settle and add more (make sure you do not go over 50/50 mix on antifreeze! The more antifreeze, the less effective heat transfer) each time. Then once it is no longer going down, you want to start and let warm up with cap off coolant tank. Turn off and replace cap and let cool. This will pull in more coolant as air pockets "burp" out. Open reservoir and fill again and repeat. But, you may have a head gasket issue if it has gotten too hot.

Good luck!

You know how to do all that, but still can't answer whether or not we need a check valve for the original E2 Elite catch can.

gringo · 06-12-2018, 06:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WilliamGray

Thanks for the advice!

After some more bleeding air out its acting normal now. The coolant temp stays between 198-205 when driving (which seems normal?) sometimes when its just idling it will go up to 207-208 but will eventually come back to 205.

I was wondering if there were any aftermarket mods I could get to improve cooling the coolant/engine? But other than that, i think she’s back to normal��

There are a few things.....larger core radiator, water wetter, lower temp thermostat, lower fan turn-on, run an aftermarket pusher fan in front of the radiator/condensor assembly.

What concerns me the most is that it still seems your are running a little hotter than normal. Mine usually stabilizes at around 180-185* or so when idling. At speed, it hovers between 185-195*.

If it was me, I'd do a compression check on it just to be sure you didn't lift a head gasket when it overheated the first time.

Elite Engineering · 06-12-2018, 04:45 PM

Our apologies gringo, depends on the application. The checkvalve is always good and has no negative, but for a port injection stock or mild bolt on application the base Elite can is fine and you can go w/out the checkvalve. If you have the V6, you want the E2 or E2-X dual valve with both checkvalves as well as the cleanside separator. While port injection engines can tolerate a certain amount of ingestion, GDI engines cannot, so it is critical to evacuate at all times and the checkvalves are then needed to ensure no back-flow and also to automatically default to the strongest suction source available no matter the mode of operation.

If you ever find we have not seen a question, please email our technical support team direct: Tech@EliteEngineeringUSA.com

Sales is: Sales@EliteEngineeringUSA.com to get the fastest response. Tech will also copy sales if sales assistance is needed as well.

Cheers!

06-10-2018, 04:34 PM	#1
WilliamGray Drives: Charcoal Gray, SS Rims Join Date: Dec 2016 Location: Indiana Posts: 10	2011 3.6 Keeps Overheating Background: One day my car suddenly shot up in temperature and Idle Engine warning came on so I immediately pulled over and shut the engine off. Come to find out I was out of coolant, bone dry. So after putting in more everything was fine. After a week I checked the coolant level again to find out it had dropped, so after investigating I found it was leaking around the T-stat housing. I ordered a whole new thermostat housing assembly and while that was coming in, flushed my radiator with a cleaner. I drove to work with the cleaner still in the system with some water (which said was normal to do), and on my way to work it got hot again, overheated, and I had to limp it to work. At work I put more water into the system and made it home without overheating again. Next day I flushed the cleaner and rinsed it out again, then replaced my T-stat housing and put new coolant in. But now it is still overheating. Whenever I try to bleed out the coolant for air it starts coming out all together. I believe the system isn't flowing right and is just allowing the engine to heat up. The water is just not flowing the way it should be. I don't know if it is the new T-stat that is not opening up (which is brand new GM part) (Also terrible to get to on back of the engine) or if the water pump needs replaced. I am stumped and any help would be greatly appreciated!

06-10-2018, 06:57 PM	#2
WilliamGray Drives: Charcoal Gray, SS Rims Join Date: Dec 2016 Location: Indiana Posts: 10	Update: So i put a new water pump on, put more coolant in and bled it out for awhile. The coolant is definetley circulating more than it had been. But it is still overheating, getting up to 235 when i drove it just a very short distance. Before i test drove it, it stayed pretty steady at 205-207 degree F. Im lost😂

06-11-2018, 03:25 PM	#5
Avenging Orange Drives: 2010 Inferno Orange 2SS/RS Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Clermont, IN Posts: 3,297	I know you replaced the housing...but did you replace the t-stat as well? __________________ 2010 Inferno Orange 2SS/RS M6 Black Leather, Sun Roof, OBX Headers, Borla touring axle back, Cold Air Inductions CAI , non synthetic fluids, BMR total bushing upgrade/1" lowering springs, DSE 32mm rear sway bar. GM fe4 shocks/struts/LCA's, AAM 3.91 diff, Vertini RFS1.8 20x9 +30. Conti ExtremeContact Sport 275/35/20. sjm autoprod ABL dash kit. Mike Norris tuned 413/419. Avenging Orange: 43 years of not buying into the Hype........and damn proud of it!! https://youtu.be/9JD9it6SmB8 https://youtu.be/xmelTlEzI34 KICKING CANCERS ASS SINCE 2015!!

06-11-2018, 09:11 PM	#10
hammdo 'It's an experiment' Drives: [COTW 2/09/15] '11 GPI LSA SC Z/LE Join Date: May 2014 Location: Dallas TX Posts: 8,690 View My Garage	Elevate the front, take the cap off (after the car cools down). Leave it sit for a while. Then turn the heater on, start the car being carful to watch the flow. When the tstat opens, fill as needed. BE CARFUL as when it starts warming up, she can burp back. You may need to do this several times. If you don’t have a vacuum filler, this is the way to do it. I also squeeze the radiator hoses to burp (while it’s not too hot — wear leather gloves to be safe)... -Don __________________ 747 RWHP 794 RWTQ "Horsepower sells cars, torque wins races." - Enzo Ferrari See My Build: http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=385577 Last edited by hammdo; 06-11-2018 at 10:19 PM.

06-11-2018, 04:47 AM	#3
gringo Account Suspended Drives: Camaro V6 Join Date: Oct 2016 Location: U.S. Posts: 1,722	Is the electric fan turning on?

06-11-2018, 04:37 PM	#7
Elite Engineering Drives: 2010 Camaro Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Denver Posts: 1,381	The process to bleed out air pockets is difficult and time consuming on these, but if you have run real hot you may have warped a head. First, with engine cold remove upper radiator hose and full as full as possible from it (just one end). Then fill coolant reservoir to the very top, nit the full mark. Watch with cap off and it will settle and add more (make sure you do not go over 50/50 mix on antifreeze! The more antifreeze, the less effective heat transfer) each time. Then once it is no longer going down, you want to start and let warm up with cap off coolant tank. Turn off and replace cap and let cool. This will pull in more coolant as air pockets "burp" out. Open reservoir and fill again and repeat. But, you may have a head gasket issue if it has gotten too hot. Good luck!

06-11-2018, 08:46 PM	#8
WilliamGray Drives: Charcoal Gray, SS Rims Join Date: Dec 2016 Location: Indiana Posts: 10	Thanks for the advice! After some more bleeding air out its acting normal now. The coolant temp stays between 198-205 when driving (which seems normal?) sometimes when its just idling it will go up to 207-208 but will eventually come back to 205. I was wondering if there were any aftermarket mods I could get to improve cooling the coolant/engine? But other than that, i think she’s back to normal��

06-11-2018, 08:49 PM	#9
WilliamGray Drives: Charcoal Gray, SS Rims Join Date: Dec 2016 Location: Indiana Posts: 10	Also after idling, I turned the engine off and watched the temp, it climbed to 216. Im guessing after you shut it off the coolant isnt flowing at all and allows it to climb up? Is this normal?

06-12-2018, 04:45 PM	#13
Elite Engineering Drives: 2010 Camaro Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Denver Posts: 1,381	Our apologies gringo, depends on the application. The checkvalve is always good and has no negative, but for a port injection stock or mild bolt on application the base Elite can is fine and you can go w/out the checkvalve. If you have the V6, you want the E2 or E2-X dual valve with both checkvalves as well as the cleanside separator. While port injection engines can tolerate a certain amount of ingestion, GDI engines cannot, so it is critical to evacuate at all times and the checkvalves are then needed to ensure no back-flow and also to automatically default to the strongest suction source available no matter the mode of operation. If you ever find we have not seen a question, please email our technical support team direct: Tech@EliteEngineeringUSA.com Sales is: Sales@EliteEngineeringUSA.com to get the fastest response. Tech will also copy sales if sales assistance is needed as well. Cheers!