NPP Stealth mode - added factory & wild modes

[mbowen89]

It's just forcing it to go through the mufflers. You wouldn't be able to notice any difference.

[jayno20]

Originally Posted by mbowen89

It's just forcing it to go through the mufflers. You wouldn't be able to notice any difference.

So does that mean there is NO difference, or there would be it would just be hard to notice?

[Inferno1LE]

You'd have to Dyno the car both ways to know for sure.

[Inferno1LE]

I just want to clarify something... It was brought to my attention recently that there is some confusion as to how the switch powers the NPP flaps in my drawing or the plug and play kit. To clarify, the switch does not directly power anything. The switch controls the relay only, and the flaps are powered by the relay as they are from the factory.

[mbowen89]

Originally Posted by Inferno1LE

I just want to clarify something... It was brought to my attention recently that there is some confusion as to how the switch powers the NPP flaps in my drawing or the plug and play kit. To clarify, the switch does not directly power anything. The switch controls the relay only, and the flaps are powered by the relay as they are from the factory.

It is still important to note that you do have 12v at the switch, so caution is still necessary.

[Inferno1LE]

Originally Posted by mbowen89

It is still important to note that you do have 12v at the switch, so caution is still necessary.

This is completely untrue. There is no 12v at the switch. The switch throws a ground, as does the factory trigger. There is +12V IGN on the other side of the coil at the relay as there is in the factory wiring. The worst thing that happens if any wire at the switch shorts to ground is that the flaps close. If you look at the factory wiring diagram posted earlier in this thread, you will see this is the case.

[mbowen89]

When you open the switch, there is no voltage drop across the relay coil, meaning there is 12V on both sides of the relay, and therefore at the switch. Am I wrong?

With everything normal from factory, the yellow/blue wire does have +12V on it when the ECM does not ground it.

[Inferno1LE]

Originally Posted by mbowen89

When you open the switch, there is no voltage drop across the relay coil, meaning there is 12V on both sides of the relay, and therefore at the switch. Am I wrong?

With everything normal from factory, the yellow/blue wire does have +12V on it when the ECM does not ground it.

I understand what you are referring to; however I think you are misunderstanding the concept. If you measure the voltage at the switch on the pin that is tied to the coil on the relay, you will see +12V. This is not a power source though, this is only the power bleeding through the coil because the coil is not energized. There is nothing that can short and cause any type of problem because if you ground that side of the coil, it only energizes the coil and activates the relay. It will not spark, blow a fuse, or do anything other than activate the relay. This is the case for every single switch in the car... Your locks, your lights, your windows, etc.

I'm not trying to start an argument with you, I just want everyone to understand that there is no way that any wire between the switch and the relay could cause any sort of problem if it were shorted to ground. Just because you measure 12v doesn't mean it is a 12v power source.

[miller8907]

Got my switch mounted. This thing is very nice to have. Especially with my new Solo cats. Thanks Inferno1LE.

[SLO 1LE]

I will be interested in inferno's plug and play once my camaro comes in.

[mbowen89]

I just installed my three way switch, I did the splice into blue/yellow wire only method.

It works, flaps open and close, but I honestly don't hear much difference, is that weird? When do you notice basically a fuse pull/flaps open all the time? Because idle in neutral flaps are open. When I'm cruising and flip the switch, I can't really hear much difference, I was expecting it to get a lot louder or something.

[Enduring]

You'll notice it at 3k rpm and higher. You'll also notice that the decel popping is significantly louder, especially at 3k to 4k rpm. If I let off the throttle and then get back on the throttle at 4k rpm it sounds like a gun going off with the flaps open. Even lifting off at 2k rpm is a lot louder with the flaps open.

[Bad@ssCamaro]

I notice a difference at idle with the flaps closed, sitting in the drivers seat with the window open, and then open them. It's subtle, not a large decibel change. When I pull into my Condo residence at night and switch it to closed, it sounds whisper quiet compared to having the flaps open from driving on the streets.

[AG1LE]

The difference is subtle until you get headers or HF cats