How much power can my stock drivetrain handle?

[2SSHADOWLSX]

So I've been looking into supercharger systems lately, particularly the Whipple 2.9L. I currently have a BTR Stage 4 supercharger Cam kit with a .660 degree lift. I also have American racing headers full exhaust and Long tube headers. I'm not sure how much power I'll be putting down after the blower, currently at 460 rwhp, 530ish bhp. My torque output is about even with the horsepower. Should I be looking into any type of other motor, trans, or rear end upgrades before I pull the trigger on the Whipple? Haven't had a single issue yet. Not sure how far I can push it. Don't need to find out the hard way

[Rons1le]

First question automatic or manual? Second question how much boost are you going to push? And third question are you going to put drag radials on it? Fourth question what is your power goals?

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[Greenhornet2]

On the street you'll probably be ok. Put stickies on it go the track and really launch it.. yes you'll needs upgrades.

[Juiced1]

Originally Posted by Greenhornet2

On the street you'll probably be ok. Put stickies on it go the track and really launch it.. yes you'll needs upgrades.

Like he said. Without sticky tires you really won't break much. The track will help you find any weak points quicker though.



That being said the rear end is pretty light in these cars. A ZL1 upgrade, 9" or Dana 60 upgrade is a good idea if you plan on tracking the car hard. If you have the A6 you can break them and there isn't a ton of upgrades without losing a couple gears.

[Greenhornet2]

So I plan to be around 700WHP after my cam is installed and add the BAP and meth injection. I have an LPW diff cover I am putting in, trailing arms toe links to avoid wheel hop (the main cause of breaking parts). Now I do have 17" welds with drag slicks. If I go to the track and break something I will start addressing more. If trans goes I plan to send it out and upgraded with new clutch, if diff goes, I will ZL1 upgrade it. Axles and driveshaft after talking to Jannetty they seem to be pretty stout and not be an issue as long as there is no wheel hop. Wheel hop is #1 killer of parts! I also do not plan to run the car at the track often. Couple times to see what I get for a time then I am on the street 99% of the time. Slicks may get put to use on the street here and there but I won't be hitting it as hard as I would on the track. I have the Whipple, you will be about where I am at, I am still on stock cam currently.

[dreksnot]

Personally, I wouldn't start beefing up your axle or driveshaft with the SS components. I think best bang for the buck is the ZL1 diff with OEM axles and an upgraded 1pc aluminum driveshaft. That'll get you good up to 1,000whp, no problem. As for clutch in the M6, yes, that stock clutch will start failing at the most inopportune times. The TR6060 is a pretty stout piece. I'd just upgrade the fluid to Redline ATF or RP SyncroMesh (or whatever it's called). You'll likely end up with a double or triple plate clutch to handle the torque (RPM, Monster, McLeod or my top recs).

[fif_gen_powa]

My friend makes over 1000whp with only a mcleod rxt on stock ss diff(w/bushings and lpw cover) stock ss driveshaft, stock ss axles, stock tr6060. He runs drag radials but only roll races. He wouldn't make it to the 60ft without breaking on the first pass if he ever launched the car but doing street pulls from a roll it has held up for a long time surprisingly

[Bildo]

Pushing the factory TR6060 over 8-850rwhp still...... its probably not happy but its holding. There is a lot more to think about depending what your goal is, how much boost, fuel type ect... would definitely upgrade driveshaft back and go through the entire rear end. I run a factory housing with LPW cover, solid bushings, billet caps, G force axles, trailing arms, a DSS drive shaft,and an eaton trutrac in mine and it holds fine so far. I always work from the back forward and make sure the car is ready for the power before adding it minus my trans when that gives up the ghost I am going auto.

[Rem0v3r]

The diff is pretty weak. Built ones are $$$$ used ones are 500 lol. Youve already figured out that driveline shock will kill things real fast.. stick with street tires, dont goto the track and your shit will live longer and go further. As far as the engine, all i can tell you is stay away from a moon tune.. dont run the ragged edge on your fueling or timing.. if it can take 12:1 afr at 16 degrees before it knocks.. run it at 11:4 afr at 14 degrees.

Personally i have yet to have any wheel hop. All stock suspension.

With that said, go get boosted, its awesome.

[Pro-tuned]

Why waste the bucks, 650RWHP is the limit for BAP and ZL1. Go dual or triple. BMR to tighten the rear. Whipple is a great flexible kit.

[Greenhornet2]

Originally Posted by Pro-tuned

Why waste the bucks, 650RWHP is the limit for BAP and ZL1. Go dual or triple. BMR to tighten the rear. Whipple is a great flexible kit.

I don't believe this is true. 650 without a BAP, with it I was told up to 750whp, on 93, not E85. I also think a ZL1 with a DSX aux will give you quite a bit more before going dual or triple pumps.

[LaN-]

I have a full BMR suspension, but blew both my stock SS axles this year. 1 before and 1 after I did the LSA install. Before going with $1400 axles I'm upgrading to 1LE axles (1/2 inch larger CV joint) and offset diff bushings. Both of my axles broke at the outer CV so I'm hoping the offset bushings will help the CV angle and the 1LE axles with be a big stronger. Though if those break I'll be going to DSS or Gforce axles.

[UNRIVALED SS]

You’re good to 600-630 at the wheel if you have a spot on trans tune.
After that, Axels , trans and driveshaft start to become points of failure in that order usually.

[2SSHADOWLSX]

Just now reading these responses, sorry, I'm currently on Active Duty orders in the military �� planning to get boosted asap after I come home in 2 weeks, probably going to play it safe and get a better rear, driveshaft, and clutch before I boost it being that I want summer tires and I tend to launch it.