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Old 02-11-2024, 11:17 AM   #1
Bigalamo
 
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No Start

2011 LS Auto LLT, 105K miles, FBO, Trifecta tune.

I’ve been having some issues with fuel for the past 2 years. The time that all started it was when we drove all day for sightseeing and then got a car wash. After that, the Camaro was running so rough, showing misfire codes, and blowing black smoke. Long story short, all of the injectors went out and I replaced them all several times along with the plugs and fuel pressure sensor. Anyway, eventually it started running normally for all of this last year. I did know that one of the injectors was still leaking a little because when I downshift it popped and banged really nice. Fast forward to 2 days ago, we are on the interstate and I do a hard pull and immediately afterwards it starts riding really rough and throwing misfire codes for 2 cylinders. I clear the codes with my scanner and it settles down a bit, but still a little rough. We get home and I change the tune back to stock. It drove much better, but I missed the power. So I order and replace all new fuel injectors and it’s running like a dream. I put the custom tune back on and it’s like a brand new ride! I knew I fixed it when I did the downshifts and didn’t get any backfires.

Now last night: merging onto the interstate I do a pull at full throttle. Sounds great but I immediately knew we weren’t accelerating very much at all. Made it to like 60mph and feels like it’s shuttering with the speed going down. 2 misfire codes show up and when we take the first exit the car just dies. I push it to a nearby parking lot and it smells of coolant, but no leaks anywhere at all. Now it’s an extremely slow crank of like 1 or 2 turns and then nothing. Whenever I try to crank it has all of the accessories go off like the trunk opening, wipers on, windows going down, hazards on. Fuel is at 3/4 tank, battery is charged, and no codes are showing on the scanner.

I won’t be able to touch the car until tomorrow. Any ideas?
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Old 02-11-2024, 11:36 AM   #2
gtstorey

 
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What do you mean by “accessories go off”? Do they not work or do they actually activate?
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Old 02-11-2024, 12:22 PM   #3
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If your positive the battery is charged it sounds like it would be a battery cable-loose-dirty, poor ground or shorted starter (unlikely).
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Old 02-11-2024, 04:12 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by gtstorey View Post
What do you mean by “accessories go off”? Do they not work or do they actually activate?
I meant say they activate by theirselves.

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If your positive the battery is charged it sounds like it would be a battery cable-loose-dirty, poor ground or shorted starter (unlikely).
All the cables are clean and tight. I honestly think it doesn’t have anything to do with the starter or battery. Sounds like the crank does not want to turn over/obstructed.
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Old 02-11-2024, 04:49 PM   #5
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With things activating by themselves, I don’t know. Start with a voltage drop test while trying to start.
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Old 02-11-2024, 04:56 PM   #6
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With things activating by themselves, I don’t know. Start with a voltage drop test while trying to start.
I already tried hooking up cables to the Range Rover and even with the extra voltage, it still doesn’t go. I am able to manually turn the crank with a breaker bar, which is a relief. I took the IM off and looking at the fuel rails and it all looks good. Now going to check all of the plugs. Wish it would have given me a code to start with.
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Old 02-11-2024, 05:23 PM   #7
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What are scanning for codes with? I’ll be surprised if it isn’t throwing some sort of code with all of the symptoms, but it might be in modules other than ECM.
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Old 02-11-2024, 05:25 PM   #8
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And I would still see what the voltage is doing when you try to crank. And then I would do some ground voltage test.
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Old 02-12-2024, 02:55 PM   #9
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What are scanning for codes with? I’ll be surprised if it isn’t throwing some sort of code with all of the symptoms, but it might be in modules other than ECM.
I have one of those $30 code readers from Walmart.

Went and reinstalled/cleaned all the injectors, fuel rails, IM, etc. waiting for delivery of all brand new OEM spark plugs. Also checked all of the fuses and they turned out good. Found that the LT headers actually fried the Crankshaft position sensor wires, so I cut those out, spliced, and tucked them away. That might have actually been the issue. Anyway, I jacked up the Camaro and found where the burning coolant smell came from. In the picture there is evidence of a leak under the crankshaft pulley.. just have to find out where it came from.

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Old 02-12-2024, 03:52 PM   #10
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No crankshaft sensor, no rpm speed, no start. And I'm not sure if that returns a code.

Doesn't answer "accessories going off".

Coolant is "probably" out of the water pump weep hole.
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Old 02-12-2024, 04:33 PM   #11
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No crankshaft sensor, no rpm speed, no start. And I'm not sure if that returns a code.

Doesn't answer "accessories going off".

Coolant is "probably" out of the water pump weep hole.
Finally got it to run. Had to be jumped by the Range Rover again. It struggled to start but finally did. After cold start cooldown it was running rough. A lot of engine movement and heard some clicking.

The accessories thing is weird but I’m not too concerned. It seems like it does that only when it’s trying to start and decides that it cannot.

What is the weep hole?
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Old 02-12-2024, 04:43 PM   #12
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Sounds like a bad battery issue combined with damaged sensor wiring.

https://www.bing.com/search?q=waterp...5b&FORM=ANAB01
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Old 02-12-2024, 05:26 PM   #13
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Here is what the engine sounds like now. Is this a piston rubbing the walls?

https://youtube.com/shorts/aADOp4rFW...I22c_Ei6YqnUGh

Edit: My water pump pulley has play in it. Any chance this could cause this much noise? I’m going to pull off the belt tomorrow and mess around with it.
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Old 02-12-2024, 06:49 PM   #14
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That sounds like a seized idler pulley or something. Make sure your AC is off to take compressor out of the picture, then remove your belt and turn your idler pulley by hand feeling four roughness. Turn your water pump by hand-if its been leaking for a while it may have washed the grease out of the bearing and its now seizing. A seized pully or water pump bearing will make that sound and also take far more current to start making it act like a bad starter-battery.
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